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  • Faema e98 S1 Safety Valve popping

    Hi, recently the Safety Valve on my Faema e98 S1 has started popping, releasing considerable steam and noise, as the machine starts up. The pressure gauge hits the red zone, which it’s never done before, and then the safety valve releases, which is what I believe it is supposed to do!

    so not sure what is causing this pressure build up. It seems to settle soon after I release some more steam, but I’m needing some advice on what could be causing this?

    The only ideas I’ve had is a possible calcium build up, that a rescale might help with, but not sure.

    Any ideas would be great.

  • #2
    More likely mate that the P/stat contacts have welded together.
    If it's a repairable unit, you could remove it and check the contacts and maybe dress them them with a small, fine file.
    If it's a throw-away type of P/stat, then a new one should fix the problem...

    Mal.

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    • #3
      Another possibility is the autofill probe. I have intermittent problems with similar symptoms on my rescued Giotto, seems to be caused by the boiler overfilling when cold so the expansion due to heat has nowhere to go.

      In my case it is probably because the water here has very low conductivity, my strategy is to eventually replace the autofill circuit with one that copes better with it but not until after vintage.

      If you are on ordinary water and it's just started, it's possibly a connection in the autofill circuit or scale on the probe.

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      • #4
        Some of these Feamas/cimbalis have more than one set of contacts on the p-stat (2 or 3, cant recall), so you can just swap the wires and use a new set of contacts!

        You could test the pstat by applying pressure to the inlet tube and seeing if the contacts click open circuit.

        Cheers

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        • #5
          Originally posted by artman View Post
          more than one set of contacts on the p-stat (2 or 3, cant recall)
          3. The Sirai pressurestat is designed to control industrial 3 phase boilers to 36 kW. Total overkill for a domestic espresso machine but they seem to be pretty bulletproof.

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          • #6
            Thanks for all the info guys. I had a bit of a look at the pressureStat - it’s a LaCimbali one (see photo). Couldn’t see anything obvious, ie corrosion etc. popped off the contacts and put them back on, but all seemed ok. There’s 3 contacts, the middle is not used. It seems that it’s continuing to boil when the steam hits pressure (the Front light keeps flashing) and then pressure goes into the red, whereas it used to reach temp and stop flashing and therefore not produce any further pressure. So still not sure. Any other thoughts?
            Click image for larger version

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            • #7
              Does the pstat click when the pressure builds? Could be a blocked inlet tube so it’s not seeing the pressure and doesn’t turn off the element.

              You could take off the pstat and check it’s operation by feeding pressure into the inlet (tee in a gauge so you can check pressure ) and seeing if continuity stops between the terminals stops when you get the pressure up). You could slack off the spring to reduce the pressure required.

              Cheers

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              • #8
                Originally posted by artman View Post
                Does the pstat click when the pressure builds? Could be a blocked inlet tube so it’s not seeing the pressure and doesn’t turn off the element.

                You could take off the pstat and check it’s operation by feeding pressure into the inlet (tee in a gauge so you can check pressure ) and seeing if continuity stops between the terminals stops when you get the pressure up). You could slack off the spring to reduce the pressure required.

                Cheers
                Thanks for all the info artman and others. Just an update for those playing along at home...

                I took the PressureStat off again for a closer look (not really knowing the first time what to look for) and it turns out that there was significant calcium build up inside the pstat inlet “hole”. I cleaned what I could, and left some vinegar/water solution sitting in the small inlet hole over night. It looked cleaner in the morning, but a torch revealed further white calcium buildup. I used a vinegar dipped cotton bud to clean a bit more, (as the diaphragm inside is fragile) and then left vinegar in the inlet during the day (just left then pstat on the bench upside down with a few squeezes of vinegar sitting in the inlet. That evening I cleaned again with a cotton bud and could now see the small, clean diaphragm with a torch.

                After re-assembly, I monitored the boiling stage, and then “click” the pstat kicked in at just the right pressure and the boiling stopped.

                My troubles were not quite over though. I decided to run some descaler through the next day, for further cleaning, but during the process, somehow the water stopped running out of the group head and the boiler would not fill (even though the reservoir had plenty of water). After switching off several times and trying other things, I let things cool down, took off the boiler fill solenoid, but couldn’t see anything obvious. Put it all back in place and switched the machine on, and everything started working as normal. Still not sure what the boiler filling issue was, and if it will re-occur, but at present all is working well.

                Thanks again for the advice from everyone - so helpful to have the info on this forum. 

                Comment


                • #9
                  good work!

                  could be the descale solution coated the water probe giving a false "full" signal, this is the cause o failure on some breville DB machines running through the descale program.

                  always wise to disconnect the element to make sure it doesnt kick in when boiler is not full.

                  Cheers

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