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  • Profitec Pro 600 maintenance information

    Hey guys,

    Been a while! Anyway was wondering if anyone was able to share somewhere I could get some access to maintenance guides for the Profitec Pro600. I've found the Whole Latte Love guide and it's very very good broken down into obvious parts.

    I was wondering if there was any other guides out there. One issue I'm trying to fix currently is the machine is brand new and I've just done the first chem flush on it after a month and the brew lever is stiff. Many e61 seem to have this issue. I was interested to know how to get into the brew lever for some lube.

    Cheers guys

  • #2
    Morning Thirteen, the Pro 600 uses an E61 group head, whilst they do vary a little the basics are similar.

    Here's are a couple of illustrations that may help, the cam, valve pins and shaft are the areas that need lube, you can access them by removing the handle, then the shaft assembly nut and finally remove the body that the shaft rotates in from the group head, this will give you access to the area's you need to lubricate.

    Take note of how everything comes apart, they can be a bit fiddly to put back together.

    I use Innox as a lube however I suspect any quality food grade lubricant will do the job, good luck.
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    • #3
      Thanks the reply. Good diagram too.

      Ive never disassembled any machine like this so im going in blind so excuse my ignorance.

      So by going off what you've mentioned, to get to the parts I need it all comes out of the brew lever side. I see there is a flat tip nut on the end of the brew lever. Then another larger body style but holding the brew lever shaft. I assume once that's out you can get to the cam and get greasy.

      Cheers

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      • #4
        Like this: https://clivecoffee.zendesk.com/hc/e...am-Lubrication

        Maybe i should have just googled it first!

        As per that little write up. Is it just the face of the cam that needs a little grease?

        Thanks

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        • #5
          Yep, looks good, make sure you use clean tools that fit well, don't want to mar the finish, and remember to note the position of the cam for reassembly.

          You can also gain limited access to the cam by removing the mushroom, spring and valve and applying a dab of lube with a satay stick or similar, not as effective but I have done it, gravity and migration tend to spread the lube.

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          • #6
            Eeek, lots of pristine shiny surfaces and tools.

            I've gone so far as wrapping my spanners in electrical tape to make sure nothing gets damaged

            I'm getting a twitch just thinking about it.

            Good luck

            Cheers

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Yelta View Post
              Yep, looks good, make sure you use clean tools that fit well, don't want to mar the finish, and remember to note the position of the cam for reassembly.

              You can also gain limited access to the cam by removing the mushroom, spring and valve and applying a dab of lube with a satay stick or similar, not as effective but I have done it, gravity and migration tend to spread the lube.
              Yes the cam position is a good one! Probably should have noticed before i go tearing in. I didnt take the mushroom out and the camshaft was pretty tight in there. All makes sense though now.

              Judging from the image does the cam face follow same as your image? Cam face should be facing upwards most facing the front. Hence why your saying then mushroom valve out the top is advised? removes the pressure to reinsert under the pin?

              Don't be scared to get in with the tools lads, just dont be ham fisted with it. Everything isn't really very tight anyway, all easy to come off. If your tools are slipping your doing it wrong, using the wrong tools or turning it the wrong way.

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              • #8
                Alright, quick trip to bunnings and thats all sorted. Hot tip they sell a 4 pack of shifters for $22. The largest in the pack will do the mushroom and the second largest will do the body nut.

                i just put some of the inox on the face of the cam. But even a dab on both sides of the shaft, cant have enough grease. Take top mushroom out to take off the spring pressure. Even little dab of grease on the cam that touches the pump switch on the outer body. She's back to super smooth now. Everyone should be doing this, takes 5 minutes if you've got all the bits handy.

                Pro600 and the T64 grinder are an awesome combo too. Works a treat!

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Thirteen13 View Post
                  Yes the cam position is a good one! Probably should have noticed before i go tearing in. I didnt take the mushroom out and the camshaft was pretty tight in there. All makes sense though now.

                  Judging from the image does the cam face follow same as your image? Cam face should be facing upwards most facing the front. Hence why your saying then mushroom valve out the top is advised? removes the pressure to reinsert under the pin?

                  Don't be scared to get in with the tools lads, just dont be ham fisted with it. Everything isn't really very tight anyway, all easy to come off. If your tools are slipping your doing it wrong, using the wrong tools or turning it the wrong way.
                  Not saying lubing through mushroom advised, just a quick and easy way of getting some grease into the general area, pulling it apart is certainly more thorough.

                  This video may help you reposition the cam, it can be tricky, that's why I advised to take note of the way it came apart, when the lever is in the off position the exhaust valve should be open and the brew valve closed, this video may help with reassembly, lets know when you get it right, DONT force anything, its either right or wrong.

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                  • #10
                    As our old mate Borat would say.
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                    • #11
                      Did another chem flush today & regreased. I found an easier way, but its a tad bit fiddley. Chem flush yet again stripped out the lube so had to be redone. What i did was take off the handle and the cam cover so the lobe is exposed, but rather than remove it and grease it up. Just got an icey pole stick, put a dab of grease on the end and there is enough space to put a dab on the mushroom pellet, so that when the lobe hits it, gets greased. Then on the movement face of the lobe for the lower pellet. Means nothing had to come out, took 2 minutes. It actually greased better this way than removing it. Could be i was more liberal with the grease this time, but feels great.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Thirteen13 View Post
                        Did another chem flush today & regreased. I found an easier way, but its a tad bit fiddley. Chem flush yet again stripped out the lube so had to be redone. What i did was take off the handle and the cam cover so the lobe is exposed, but rather than remove it and grease it up. Just got an icey pole stick, put a dab of grease on the end and there is enough space to put a dab on the mushroom pellet, so that when the lobe hits it, gets greased. Then on the movement face of the lobe for the lower pellet. Means nothing had to come out, took 2 minutes. It actually greased better this way than removing it. Could be i was more liberal with the grease this time, but feels great.
                        Ah cool, thanks for this! I've been meaning to lube my brew lever (Pro 500)... am trying to understand this, do you just have to remove the brew lever? You don't remove the E61 group head right.. it's only the brew lever that's getting a bit stuck..

                        Strangely, every time I do a chemical clean it actually unsticks it and makes it move smoother... then over time it gets back to being a bit stuck.

                        Also have no idea what a cam cover, lobe or mushroom pellet is but I can look those up hehe, unless its obvious when I take the brew lever off that that's what needsa' greasin'!

                        Thanks

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Thirteen13 View Post
                          Did another chem flush today & regreased. I found an easier way, but its a tad bit fiddley. Chem flush yet again stripped out the lube so had to be redone. What i did was take off the handle and the cam cover so the lobe is exposed, but rather than remove it and grease it up. Just got an icey pole stick, put a dab of grease on the end and there is enough space to put a dab on the mushroom pellet, so that when the lobe hits it, gets greased. Then on the movement face of the lobe for the lower pellet. Means nothing had to come out, took 2 minutes. It actually greased better this way than removing it. Could be i was more liberal with the grease this time, but feels great.
                          It shouldnt be necessary to grease the cam after flushing. I use Cafetto and the process is five 10 second flushes followed by a rinse of the portafilter and 10 five second flushes. By about the 7th or 8th flush the stiffness or squeakiness should have gone

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                          • #14
                            A couple of sacrificial shots also assists after flushing out...
                            The light coating of coffee oils left behind do a fine job.

                            Mal.

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Robbo1111 View Post
                              It shouldnt be necessary to grease the cam after flushing. I use Cafetto and the process is five 10 second flushes followed by a rinse of the portafilter and 10 five second flushes. By about the 7th or 8th flush the stiffness or squeakiness should have gone
                              Yeah i use the same stuff, but im finding the brew lever after a chem flush gets stiff and feels like solid metal on metal contact. The lever goes from a nice smooth motion to a rough, almost jerky movement. After a dab of paste its buttery smooth.

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