Profitec Pro 600 maintenance information

[flynnaus]

Not sure if this would help you out also...

https://www.jetblackespresso.com.au/...xploded-views/

Thanks, I've seen that and it's also on the Profitec website.

[foxfraser]

Not sure if this would help you out also...

https://www.jetblackespresso.com.au/...xploded-views/

[flynnaus]

I'd be going with JetBlack's instructions too Steve....
Charlie knows what he's talking about.

Mal.

Thanks Mal. Good suggestion.

[Dimal]

I'd be going with JetBlack's instructions too Steve....
Charlie knows what he's talking about.

Mal.

[flynnaus]

I've got a Pro 500 and yep I got the same JetBlack instructions and the others hehe. I've just been following the JetBlack instructions as it seems less generic and more specific to the machine and HX machines (although the method in the manual also does obviously...).

But I've also been curious as to which instructions people follow and why....

At work on our two-group we just follow the Cafetto instructions, so that may be more geared towards commercial machines like you said......

Cheers for that. I reckon the Profitec instructions would be more likely to strip the valve lubrication than the other methods given the amount of time the detergent is in contact with components. I checked out the Clean Machine instructions and they are similar to the EVO ones (10 sec on/10 sec off). In fact, a quick Google shows that the 10 second brew cycle to circulate the detergent is quitec common but there is not much consensus on how long to wait between cycles.

[simonsk8r]

OK, approaching two weeks of ownership of the Pro 600 and time for the first chemical backflush. What I find perplexing is the variation in advice on how to do a proper backflush.
I use Cafetto Evo detergent which advises five 10 second intervals during the detergent phase ie 10 seconds on, 10 seconds off followed by ten cycles of 5sec/2second to rinse.
When I used the original Cafetto, it advised 5 second intervals.
Jetblack's warranty leaflet instructions advise 3 cycles of on for 5 secs/off for 30 secs which I'm guessing would follow the advice for the Clean Machine backflush detergent that it recommends.
However the Pro 600 manual advises 20 seconds on and 30 seconds off, moving the brew lever to the mid-position between cycles. Profitec's advice goes like this:

5. Operate the group lever for approx. 20 seconds. The blind filter will fill with water.
6. Let the detergent react, moving the group lever into the middle position, approx. 45°. (Do not move it into
the lower position.)
7. Move the lever into the lower position after approx. half a minute. This way, the fats and oils can be
discharged by the infusion cylinder.
8. Repeat points 5-7 until only clear water is discharged by the infusion cylinder.

So which method is preferable? Commonsense suggests the EVO instructions but I wonder whether this applies to commercial machines rather than prosumer ones. I don't want to overdo it.
I've never heard about using the brew lever mid-position before but a bit of reading on other forums indicates that others recommend this as well.

I've got a Pro 500 and yep I got the same JetBlack instructions and the others hehe. I've just been following the JetBlack instructions as it seems less generic and more specific to the machine and HX machines (although the method in the manual also does obviously...).

But I've also been curious as to which instructions people follow and why....

At work on our two-group we just follow the Cafetto instructions, so that may be more geared towards commercial machines like you said......

[flynnaus]

Pro 600 detergent backflush

OK, approaching two weeks of ownership of the Pro 600 and time for the first chemical backflush. What I find perplexing is the variation in advice on how to do a proper backflush.
I use Cafetto Evo detergent which advises five 10 second intervals during the detergent phase ie 10 seconds on, 10 seconds off followed by ten cycles of 5sec/2second to rinse.
When I used the original Cafetto, it advised 5 second intervals.
Jetblack's warranty leaflet instructions advise 3 cycles of on for 5 secs/off for 30 secs which I'm guessing would follow the advice for the Clean Machine backflush detergent that it recommends.
However the Pro 600 manual advises 20 seconds on and 30 seconds off, moving the brew lever to the mid-position between cycles. Profitec's advice goes like this:

5. Operate the group lever for approx. 20 seconds. The blind filter will fill with water.
6. Let the detergent react, moving the group lever into the middle position, approx. 45°. (Do not move it into
the lower position.)
7. Move the lever into the lower position after approx. half a minute. This way, the fats and oils can be
discharged by the infusion cylinder.
8. Repeat points 5-7 until only clear water is discharged by the infusion cylinder.

So which method is preferable? Commonsense suggests the EVO instructions but I wonder whether this applies to commercial machines rather than prosumer ones. I don't want to overdo it.
I've never heard about using the brew lever mid-position before but a bit of reading on other forums indicates that others recommend this as well.

[Thirteen13]

Ah cool, thanks for this! I've been meaning to lube my brew lever (Pro 500)... am trying to understand this, do you just have to remove the brew lever? You don't remove the E61 group head right.. it's only the brew lever that's getting a bit stuck..

Strangely, every time I do a chemical clean it actually unsticks it and makes it move smoother... then over time it gets back to being a bit stuck.

Also have no idea what a cam cover, lobe or mushroom pellet is but I can look those up hehe, unless its obvious when I take the brew lever off that that's what needsa' greasin'!

Thanks

If you feel confident and dive into it, it will all start to make sense what those pieces are. If you are firmiliar with what a cam lobe is (think on a cam shaft in an engine) this is what is opening the valves and what needs the grease to slide smoother, when it moves.
The clip Yelta put up below shows it all perfectly.

[Thirteen13]

It shouldnt be necessary to grease the cam after flushing. I use Cafetto and the process is five 10 second flushes followed by a rinse of the portafilter and 10 five second flushes. By about the 7th or 8th flush the stiffness or squeakiness should have gone

Yeah i use the same stuff, but im finding the brew lever after a chem flush gets stiff and feels like solid metal on metal contact. The lever goes from a nice smooth motion to a rough, almost jerky movement. After a dab of paste its buttery smooth.

[Dimal]

A couple of sacrificial shots also assists after flushing out...
The light coating of coffee oils left behind do a fine job.

Mal.

[Robbo1111]

Did another chem flush today & regreased. I found an easier way, but its a tad bit fiddley. Chem flush yet again stripped out the lube so had to be redone. What i did was take off the handle and the cam cover so the lobe is exposed, but rather than remove it and grease it up. Just got an icey pole stick, put a dab of grease on the end and there is enough space to put a dab on the mushroom pellet, so that when the lobe hits it, gets greased. Then on the movement face of the lobe for the lower pellet. Means nothing had to come out, took 2 minutes. It actually greased better this way than removing it. Could be i was more liberal with the grease this time, but feels great.

It shouldnt be necessary to grease the cam after flushing. I use Cafetto and the process is five 10 second flushes followed by a rinse of the portafilter and 10 five second flushes. By about the 7th or 8th flush the stiffness or squeakiness should have gone

[simonsk8r]

Did another chem flush today & regreased. I found an easier way, but its a tad bit fiddley. Chem flush yet again stripped out the lube so had to be redone. What i did was take off the handle and the cam cover so the lobe is exposed, but rather than remove it and grease it up. Just got an icey pole stick, put a dab of grease on the end and there is enough space to put a dab on the mushroom pellet, so that when the lobe hits it, gets greased. Then on the movement face of the lobe for the lower pellet. Means nothing had to come out, took 2 minutes. It actually greased better this way than removing it. Could be i was more liberal with the grease this time, but feels great.

Ah cool, thanks for this! I've been meaning to lube my brew lever (Pro 500)... am trying to understand this, do you just have to remove the brew lever? You don't remove the E61 group head right.. it's only the brew lever that's getting a bit stuck..

Strangely, every time I do a chemical clean it actually unsticks it and makes it move smoother... then over time it gets back to being a bit stuck.

Also have no idea what a cam cover, lobe or mushroom pellet is but I can look those up hehe, unless its obvious when I take the brew lever off that that's what needsa' greasin'!

Thanks

[Thirteen13]

Did another chem flush today & regreased. I found an easier way, but its a tad bit fiddley. Chem flush yet again stripped out the lube so had to be redone. What i did was take off the handle and the cam cover so the lobe is exposed, but rather than remove it and grease it up. Just got an icey pole stick, put a dab of grease on the end and there is enough space to put a dab on the mushroom pellet, so that when the lobe hits it, gets greased. Then on the movement face of the lobe for the lower pellet. Means nothing had to come out, took 2 minutes. It actually greased better this way than removing it. Could be i was more liberal with the grease this time, but feels great.

[Yelta]

As our old mate Borat would say.

[Yelta]

Yes the cam position is a good one! Probably should have noticed before i go tearing in. I didnt take the mushroom out and the camshaft was pretty tight in there. All makes sense though now.

Judging from the image does the cam face follow same as your image? Cam face should be facing upwards most facing the front. Hence why your saying then mushroom valve out the top is advised? removes the pressure to reinsert under the pin?

Don't be scared to get in with the tools lads, just dont be ham fisted with it. Everything isn't really very tight anyway, all easy to come off. If your tools are slipping your doing it wrong, using the wrong tools or turning it the wrong way.

Not saying lubing through mushroom advised, just a quick and easy way of getting some grease into the general area, pulling it apart is certainly more thorough.

This video may help you reposition the cam, it can be tricky, that's why I advised to take note of the way it came apart, when the lever is in the off position the exhaust valve should be open and the brew valve closed, this video may help with reassembly, lets know when you get it right, DONT force anything, its either right or wrong.