Still, almost everything is now present for reassembly. Only waiting for the new sand-cast boiler end plate and custom made elements.
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1952 GAGGIA Spagna Brand New!
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I had the back panel, valve bodies, some trim and drip tray and cover re-chromed. Decades ago, someone in their wisdom had sprayed the entire machine in a clear lacquer. Age had welded it to the plating and the only way to get it off is to use the most aggressive stripper available. I say 'is' because i still have the heads to do. What a nightmare!
Still, almost everything is now present for reassembly. Only waiting for the new sand-cast boiler end plate and custom made elements.
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What a terrific find. Looks like you are going to do a cracking job on the rest if you call it that on brand new kit. I can see why you sold your Caravelles.
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I did not have this issue, but I did reuse the original studs after cleaning them up. If your threads feel wonky, get a thread chaser to repair the threads, or if they are really grungy a nice tap. I have an M8 Emuge tap I have on hand for this task specifically if my thread followers don't work well. The majority of the threads I work on are M8x1.25 that need cleaning/repairing, but M10 threads sometimes need cleaning too. However the latter don't snap/shear and or require thread repairs like drilling as often, drawing my experience on the ones I've worked with
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I think it's pretty unlikely to be a materials issue: a brass female on a stainless male is one of the standard ways to prevent galling, the "SA wine thread" is designed that way for that reason.
The first thing I'd try is retapping the threads in the brass with a good sharp tool and lots of good lubricant. Lots of problems are caused by rough threads on the female part because they are hidden. If the original fasteners were zinc plated the zinc would have acted as an EP lubricant and smoothed over the problem, again keeping it hidden.
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I made up some stainless studs for the heads but but they're binding in the brass threads. I don't remember this happening with the Tell but I do recall Ryan mentioning something about this. Can anyone shed some light on this phenomenon?
As the machine has never been used I'm going back to the original as new steel studs unless I get a better suggestion. I've pulled apart some well used decades old machines where the studs were okay so these ones will no doubt outlast me.
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Due to the polisher getting over enthusiastic I ended up having to re-chrome the back panel and all the valve bodies. It ruined some of the originality but looks great. For some reason the decades old lacquer had gone yellow on a couple of valve bodies and the drip tray but stayed clear on the rest of the machine. As usual delays are from people not following thru with promises but I'm making progress.
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Things been on the back burner for a while (now building third Jag Chevy motor grrr) but some progress has been made. Laser cutting was not an option so I am currently having a few end plates cast at a foundry. I used the America plate as a pattern but with a different hole pattern. After that's done all that's left is getting elements made.
I sort of had a bit of a disaster though. For whatever reason someone had sprayed the whole machine with a clear lacquer that has been there so long it was welded on. I finally got most of it off using caustic paint stripper and sent it all to a polisher to clean it up.
Unfortunately the chrome on the front (back) panel got damaged in the process so i spat the dummy and and sent all the visible back components to the plater to get rechromed. I've lost the original patina on the valves and back bits, panel etc but the rest remains beautifully original. Will start final assembly soon. Pic is the paint stripper working.
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I'm back to not having found a suitable boiler end-plate. I've also discovered there are different ten-hole patterns in the same diameter end-plate. The America boiler plate is not compatible which serves me right for making an ass out of u and me. Interestingly, at least to me, the really early Spagna end-plate holes match the contemporary coffeeparts 10 hole gasket. Better bump my 'wanted' post.
Forgot the pics sorry but will update when I get my new valve assemblies yay!.
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I had a chat today with an old mate who builds 5 inch gauge steam locos and river boats.
We discussed the issues involved in remanufacturing the valve rods to original specs and decided the easiest approach is sleaving the valve bodies to accept the newest Astoria/Wega components. I have a source for hard chroming which is good as doing them in stainless is problematic.
Will report back.
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I'm running into a few issues with valve replacements and looks like I will have to get some stuff made. I thought I was onto something with Astoria parts. Close but no cigar.
These are the stems/rods out of the machine. The top one is obviously new/never used same as the next two however the third one down has had the retaining lip ground off for some reason. The next two were probably substituted from a working machine decades ago.
Next is the original rod on the left and the new Astoria one from Coffeeparts. The original is 8.9mm diameter, the Astoria 7.9 but has a worm thread instead of the normal thread on the original so I can't use it anyway.
I thought I had a win with the new Astoria gasket holders and lock-nuts but alas the holder is 17.1mm as opposed to the original being 16.5 so won't go in the valve body. Not much to shave down but the new lock-nut will not go over the thicker old thread. I better start self learning how to use a lathe or engineer recommendations welcome.
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