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Carimali eta beta lm1 contactor problems

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  • Carimali eta beta lm1 contactor problems

    I got my hands on a Carimali Uno Beta (Eta Beta) a while back for no money. It acts strange when pressing the membrane, but I get it to run water and program two of the buttons. +
    But the contactor has stopped kicking in. It did so when I first got it. I can move it manually, and it starts heating the boiler.
    My guess is that it´s not the controller board since the buttons work, but I´m not shure.

    The machine is restored cosmetically and thoroughly cleaned inside, descaled and backflushed.

    Any suggestions?
    Thank you in advance.
    Attached Files

  • #2
    They can just wear out and stop switching properly. It's common failure on older Cimbali machines which use contactors as well.

    If it's like a Cimbali, there will be a pressurestat on the boiler which is a low level trigger to the contactor. If the diaphragm in the pressurestat has hardened or there was a blockage in the line, this would affect the switching times or prevent the pressurestat from operating, neither case would stop the machine from heating.

    In the rare case the diaphragm hardened and it's failed in the on position, this would cause the contactor to think the boiler is at the right pressure and not switch on. Check the pressurestat switch, with the boiler below the set pressure, the switch should be a closed circuit. If it's open the it's a pressurestat fault. If it's closed, a new contactor is the next step.

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    • #3
      Thanks for great input noidle22, this sounds logical. I will measure the pressurestat. The machine is a 2001 model, things can get old and broke in 20 years.

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      • #4
        Measured the pressurestat, closed on both leads, so that should be ok. The contacto is working when manually pushed to ON, but it´s not kicking in electronically.
        Guess next step is to replace this exprensive part.

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        • Dimal
          Dimal commented
          Editing a comment
          If it's just the coil, that won't be as much as an entire contactor.
          Of course, providing the contacts are in good nick...

      • #5
        One step further, or many! Measured pressurestat and contactor with power, all was good. Removed power and measured all leads. When following the one powerlead to the contactor I ended up in a thermostat (or so it seems), this was connected as open. Moved the one lead to the other connector on the thermo, and VOALA, the contactor kicked in! Also got to adjust the on/ off on the thermostat so the contactor turned off when enough pressure/ temp. This is very good. Now some testing, adjusting pressures and fix a small leak in the pump. Other than the broken button on the touch membrane, this should make coffee very soon! Thanks for input noidle22!!
        Attached Files

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        • #6
          If you have to replace the contactor have a read of this post/thread for ways to source one at well below list price.


          Java "Been there done that!" phile
          Toys! I must have new toys!!!

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          • #7
            I changed out to a solid state relay SSR in place of a burnt contactor. Though it seems you are well on the way to sorted

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            • #8
              Thanks for the followup! The machine have been running since yesterday, and adjusted properly. Makes very good coffee. The contactor turns on/ off quite often, and makes a hell of a noise each time. It´s a big component so some sound is expected, but a bit much.
              On my Faema E98 Compact A1 (restored, another thread here with great help from JavaPhile) there´s only a small click when heater is turned on/ off, but this is by relay, not contactor.
              I have ordered new button membrane from Poland, the original is worn, I had to modify and replace one button.
              The one problem I experience now is that it doesn´t hold the stored timing on each button, and sometimes when pushing the milkfrothersteamerespressobutton (yes, this model has a full automatic caffe latté button) the machine goes "wild" and starts to push steam/ water/ grouphead water in random pulses.
              Anyone here familiar with the Gicar DOS 3D5 controller, and if it has some kind of battery backup?
              I can disconnect the button and the solenoid, but would like to have the machine fully operational.

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