Well, she's up and running and back to doing what she does best.
Only issue is leaking water tap, not sure on how to tackle that one yet.
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Suggestions for a machine around the 5K mark
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Ha ha ha, I'll let him know lol
I'll let him know when he gets home, hopefully she'll be back up and running again tonight. I've just got everything crossed that the new parts come today.
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BTW Let hubby know that the Nissan hoses dont work any where near as well as Mitsubishi Triton hoses do.....
Just ask Toby Price !
Nah just kiddin....
But def ridgy didge get him to look up the Gicleur in the brew path. Remove soak Clean with a fine needle / welding tip cleaner etc.
Usually threaded into the Mushroom.
Also grouphead (no handle) should flow approx 6-8ml a second (vibe pump).
I'm sure there are plenty here willing to offer assistance. Keep posting Questions.
GL
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A bit of an update......
Hubby has given the Splendor a good old fashioned descaling, cleared some blockages, cleaned up the pressure valve on top of the boiler that wasn't working properly and a few other bits and bobs.
One thing that had him stumped was that we couldn't get the machine up to full temp., running about 10 degrees too cool.
In the early hours of yesterday morning he had an epiphany that it was something to do with the water not circulating in the group properly. He rigged up a crude contraption consisting of the garden hose and 3 or 4 Nissan Patrol radiator hoses, gave it a few blasts of water and Bingo! we have full temperature.
We're just waiting on a couple of gaskets and a valve thing that goes in the group from Coffee Parts and we will be in business.
Next to tackle is the leaking taps.
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That was helpful noidle22 thank you.
I was under the impression anything can be fixed on these machines bar a hole in the boiler.
I am pretty confident that there are no leaks anywhere aside from the steam arm. I guess we will find out when hubby benches it.
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I swapped steam and hot water wands from a Profitec 800 to my old Unico Splendor, was a direct fit. Basically any valve from 90% of machines will work, it's fairly standardised.
Unless it's got a hole in the boiler, there's nothing in that machine that will render it non viable for repair.
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It's the ECM one.... I assume when you say "more movement"...... you are running the machine in free flow mode? ie.... no coffee in the basket? A flow rate test at various 1/4, 1/2 etc with no coffee in the machine.... really almost tells one nothing..... in my view. Fwiw.... I think more from closed to how far open it needs to go to get full possible flow when extracting coffee.... I find about 200 or so degrees rotation does this.... opening more then that doesn't contribute any more pressure drop across the basket.... or flow.
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Thanks LB, I've got most of that so I will check it out.
The main reason for cleaning is the layer of sludge on the bottom of a 60,000litre tank accumulated over 40 years.
I plan on using a pool suction head attached to a fire pump and see how it goes.
I'll lose a few thousand litres in the process but I have a lot of roofs to harvest from and it is an La Nina year.
If that doesn't work I'll get in the pro's.
Sorry for the thread drift Iris.
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Agree with beanz, no need to depressure. Only time I have ever had to do anything similar is when I ground wayyyy too fine and I completely choked the machine. The spring will just have built up pressure so I had wait for it to cool before unloading the portafilter. Only ever happened once.
I also cut the shot early as beanz mentioned. But I put my cup in a small old plastic takeaway container and then just take the cup away and let the final liquid drain into the container. It's a bit cleaner than going into the drip tray and sometimes the cup switcheroo a bit ends up in the drip tray. When I have guests over i put the takeway container away and just clean the drip tray later, but this is all just for vanity to look more impressive.
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Amberale:
If you want to remove iron from water oxygen is your friend. The iron is present as the soluble Fe2+ ion, if you oxidise it to Fe3+ it becomes insoluble.
Agressive aeration works if you have the time: buy a length of irrigation diffusion tubing, weight it down and supply it with compressed air: the cheapo oilless compressor from Bunnings works OK.
Direct oxygenation through a sinter is quicker but you need an oxygen cylinder and regulator.
Peroxidation is even quicker: add hydrogen peroxide to the water and mix it.
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No need to release the pressure. Pull the shot, pull the glass away at the weight / volume desired with the balance of the shot running into drip tray or another glass and then remove the portafilter. I have never had a problem with residual pressure. The only scenario I could imagine would be if you choked the machine with a fine grind.
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So another question if I may... With the bigger levers Pro 800 etc. do you need to "depressurise" between shots?
On the La Pav I usually make a shot, switch off, release the pressure via the steamer, remove the portafilter, switch back on, load up portafilter and off I go again.
I was wondering if it was the same with spring levers.
Thanks and thank you to all who have chimed in.
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