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Thanks for all those who replied. Ive gone back to the manufacturer to get some answers.
Is it worth it swapping the 3KW voltage regulator (uses servo) instead of the converter (uses relay)? Ive never had experience with this as Im more familiar with isolation transformers which are quite heavier I think compared to this electronics-based ones.
Originally posted by fix link=1194419728/15#18 date=1207071583
switchs and wiring might be compatable
Doubt that the wiring would be up to scratch, to the boiler element anyway. 110V AC supply with a similarly rated element would draw more than double the current of a 240V AC element. The Pump would require changing too (at least the coil) and the various indication lights, etc may be so dull as to be almost indistinguishable from the On or Off state.
The simplest option all round would be to just acquire a suitably rated 110/240V step-up transformer or see if you can get a power point wired from your fusebox as a straight 220V AC outlet. Javaphile has mentioned a few times that a lot of houses in the States (and Canada?) use a 220V circuit to feed the stove so as to reduce the current draw, wiring size and voltage drop. Might be worth checking out.....
Originally posted by Mal link=1194419728/15#19 date=1207119011
Javaphile has mentioned a few times that a lot of houses in the States (and Canada?) use a 220V circuit to feed the stove so as to reduce the current draw, wiring size and voltage drop. Might be worth checking out.....
Frequently there is 220V available in the laundry room, for the clothes dryer, as well.
Makes a lot more sense to keep things simple..... 220V supply is normally available and in that case only requires a power-plug change. Also, I never make assumptions where electricity is concerned, not worth the risk,
Ive got my replacement voltage regulator (step-up/step-down) and now Im using it on the second day. Ive left it on overnight just to do a "burn-in" of some sort. What I hate with this servo-type voltage stabilizer is whenever the PID kicks-in, I can see it dropping voltage whilst it is drawing current (approx. 10A) so you can hear it when it tries to dial-in back to the setpoint voltage of 230V. Is this normal?
So far, it seems to hold-up. No burned-wires or fuse. Hopefully, it was just a defective one they gave me the first time.
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