They seem to cost half as much as the sunbeam OEM pumps (China Star).
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Sunbeam EM6910 Repair pointers...
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Just to update this I ended up regaining the pre programmed shot volume button function after some time of use.
I believe it was my weekly caffetto backflush routine that might have cleaned some scale and got it working as it should.
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Xanthine has cleared this up for both of us - the little control board behind the buttons does not control the timer function. That’s good to know, although it does mean you may need to look at replacing the main PCB.Originally posted by Davidque View Post
Are you sure it's a timer and not a flow meter? Are you saying there's some kind of controller behind the buttons that works for both single and double shot?
I'll see if I can spot it on the parts manual before I take the lid off.
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Sorry to take so long to get back to comment on this but I wanted to check my facts first by looking at one of the spare button panels I had in the shed. As I thought, there are no active components on this panel - only 5 LEDs, 5 pb switches, a buzzer and a couple of multi-pin connectors. All of the control and timing is done by micro-controller on the main control board so the problem could well be the flowmeter. I once came across a 6910 which had a blocked flowmeter after being left un-used for several months with water in the lines. Slime grew in the plastic tubing and blocked it! The top of the flowmeter can be undone by twisting it without removing it then the impeller can be checked. From memory, a magnet attached to the impeller triggers a hall sensor to generate pulses for the control board.
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Yes, it's a timer. They're not volumetric settings. There is definitely a small control board behind the buttons that's quite easy to get to once the lid is off.Originally posted by Davidque View PostAre you sure it's a timer and not a flow meter? Are you saying there's some kind of controller behind the buttons that works for both single and double shot? I'll see if I can spot it on the parts manual before I take the lid off.
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Are you sure it's a timer and not a flow meter? Are you saying there's some kind of controller behind the buttons that works for both single and double shot?Originally posted by LeroyC View PostI'm pretty sure that the control unit for the timer is actually behind the buttons so you don't need to replace the whole PCB. I would just replace that particular part as it's not difficult to do.
I'll see if I can spot it on the parts manual before I take the lid off.
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I'm pretty sure that the control unit for the timer is actually behind the buttons so you don't need to replace the whole PCB. I would just replace that particular part as it's not difficult to do.
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I just finished replacing a collar as part of a refurb on an old run down machine I inherited. Everything works well except the single and double cup programs don't automatically stop pouring.
I tried a factory reset which beeped 4 times as if it worked, but still the buttons seem to stay on once pressed.
Is it likely that the flow metre is not working?
Is this a common issue and is there anything to check, or just replace the part?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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I'm trying to resurrect a EM6910, the fuse had blown, as I see it that the fuse is the last resort fail safe and blew for the reason the block had got to 185°C, probably due to the thermostat not opening. I intend to replace the thermostat with a generic one , problem is I can't find what temperature to buy, Gaggia seem to be 145°C, would the sunbeam be the about the same? Any help would be appreciated , thanks.Originally posted by Robbks View Postlikely to be the thermo-fuse.
I blew a few on the steam TB
Test it by bypassing the fuse with a piece of insulated wire.
otherwise it may be a relay issue (i had those too) but the relay usually sticks on,
so the TB is always heating whenever the power-point is on
Finally it might be a thermostat issue or even a dead heating element.
But fuse is most likely.
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I love this forum, one little update like this and I was able to resolve my problem too! Other posts here include links to manuals and simplified instructions to break down the machine to get inside.Originally posted by Beaker74 View PostQuick update on my machine, blown thermo-fuse. $4 from Jaycar and machine is up and running again.
I do still have a niggle, in that my power light continually flashes red even while the other lights are steady, doesn't seem to slow it down...
Part: https://www.jaycar.com.au/228oc-thermal-fuse/p/ST3814
Teardown: http://coffeesnobs.com.au/documentat...ent-guide.html
Manual: http://coffeesnobs.com.au/documentat...ce-manual.html
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All good!
Fingers crossed for success.
If you look closely you can probably see signs of wear on that valve.
The group head in the photos is from my box of spare parts - easier to photograph.
I'm afraid I'm a 'search & destroy' typist and have never got any better at it so photos are much quicker.
Look forward to hearing how you get on.
Trev
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Originally posted by Xanthine View PostPossibly the anti-drip valve.
To check it first remove the shower screens -
[ATTACH=CONFIG]18141[/ATTACH]
Then remove the brass nut using a 12mm spanner or socket -
[ATTACH=CONFIG]18142[/ATTACH]
The valve should come out with it's spring -
[ATTACH=CONFIG]18143[/ATTACH]
Check spring and tip of rubber valve for damage. I think I have seen new ones on Ebay or CS site sponsors-
[ATTACH=CONFIG]18144[/ATTACH]
Also clean up the valve seat -
[ATTACH=CONFIG]18145[/ATTACH]
Re-assemble in reverse order making sure the shower screens are seated properly in the rubber seal (not shown in the photos).
Cheers
Trev
Thanks so much for the tip! coffee machine is packed up in a box at the moment coz we're shifting houses but will be sure to have a look at that. Will post the outcome once i've done the checks! Also good to see that its not just my group head that looks all crusty like that! i have given it a good scrub with a fine wool brush and it took away some of the calc/rust.
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Possibly the anti-drip valve.Originally posted by smallbigblob View PostHello everyone! Just wondering if any of you had a problem where when the hot water wand on a EM6910 is turned on, water leaks from the grouphead as well? Usually make cups of tea for the wife and coffee for myself so trying to avoid having got to put the kettle on as well as heat up the coffee machine.
To check it first remove the shower screens -
Then remove the brass nut using a 12mm spanner or socket -
The valve should come out with it's spring -
Check spring and tip of rubber valve for damage. I think I have seen new ones on Ebay or CS site sponsors-
Also clean up the valve seat -
Re-assemble in reverse order making sure the shower screens are seated properly in the rubber seal (not shown in the photos).
Cheers
Trev
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I have an old em6910 with the following issues:
- Steam wand pumps but never gets hot (just little pumps of cold water)
- Group head sometimes leaks
Is it worth repairing or should I look at buying something newer/better?
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Hello everyone! Just wondering if any of you had a problem where when the hot water wand on a EM6910 is turned on, water leaks from the grouphead as well? Usually make cups of tea for the wife and coffee for myself so trying to avoid having got to put the kettle on as well as heat up the coffee machine.
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