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Gaggia Classic - No Water through Group head
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Quick update, ordered the Parker ZB09 from coffeeparts.com, great service, super fast delivery. The replacement solenoid coil has done the trick! Very happy, thanks for everyones help, especially D.G.! Much appreciated!
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Hi D.G.
I emailed them yesterday, couldn't find the exact coil on their site, so just awaiting response. Also emailed a couple of other places. I've got the coil next to me, will wander down to Jaycar this morning and see if they have something. Keen to get this machine up and running again!
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I just remembered - site sponsor Coffeeparts has several coils listed at about $30. One of them will probably fit your Classic.Originally posted by teds01 View PostWill try and source a replacement part asap. Will let you know how it goes. I wonder if having the socket wired incorrectly damaged the solenoid coil? Thanks again for all the help!
Call or email them, they will know which one you need and they give great customer service and fast delivery.
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No, the reversed connections cannot be blamed for the problem. It just caused some confusion in locating it.Originally posted by teds01 View PostWill try and source a replacement part asap. Will let you know how it goes. I wonder if having the socket wired incorrectly damaged the solenoid coil?
It could be worth searching the CS site for info about a replacement. It could have been here that I read about buying the coil as a separate part for half the price of a complete valve & coil assembly.
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Will try and source a replacement part asap. Will let you know how it goes. I wonder if having the socket wired incorrectly damaged the solenoid coil? Thanks again for all the help!
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Yes, I'm afraid that's it. It must have gone open circuit, and will have to be replaced. As I said in an earlier post, the valve & the coil come apart, and I believe I have seen them sold as separate parts, but I can't remember where. You should ask around, because the complete assembly was about $90 last time I looked.Originally posted by teds01 View PostNo reading at all = cactus?
PS You could try Jaycar
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No reading at all = cactus?Originally posted by deegee View PostOK you need to test for resistance. Pop the connectors off the terminals and test across the two outer terminals.
You should get a reading that is a little over 1 K-ohm. Probably about 1.1 or 1.2 K.
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OK you need to test for resistance. Pop the connectors off the terminals and test across the two outer terminals.Originally posted by teds01 View PostHi D.G.
I've got a multimeter. Would that be easier, just need to know what to test for with the solenoid coil.
You should get a reading that is a little over 1 K-ohm. Probably about 1.1 or 1.2 K.
It will probably be a lot lower or higher than that if it is cactus.
If your meter is auto-ranging it should be OK but if it has manual range selection, make sure it is set to K's as it may not give a reading if it is set to ohms, or to Meg-ohms.
Cheers.
PS It's not unusual to see a spark at the switch. You don't normally see it because the top is on and your head isn't usually in that position directly above it.
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Disconnected the pump, taped the terminals, connected the power, placed a wooded spoon on top of solenoid, flicked the machine on (noticed a quick flash of spark from the front switch panel) turned the brew switch on and off a number of times, but no clicks or no hums. Solenoid coil dead?
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Hi D.G.
I've got a multimeter. Would that be easier, just need to know what to test for with the solenoid coil.
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Reassemble machine, no longer tripping the Safety Switch - - - HALLELUJAH.
But now, my initial problem continues, no water through the group head - - - Bummer
How can the solenoid coil be tested? The obvious answer is with a multimeter, but I'm pretty sure you don't have one.
However there is another way. As usual disconnect the machine first, and Be Careful !!
Disconnect the pump, & tape the terminals. Leave the top plate off and reconnect the machine.
Get a short ( 25 - 40cm ) length of plastic or DRY wooden rod - a bit of old broom handle or a wooden spoon will do.
Turn the machine on press one end of the rod to the top of the solenoid. Press the other end against your ear.
Flick the brew switch on, leave it on for a few seconds then turn it off. Repeat if necessary, listening carefully.
If the solenoid is operating you should hear a sharp click (or clack) followed by a faint humming.
If you just hear the humming, the coil is OK but the valve is stuck.
If you hear neither, the coil is probably faulty, but will need to be tested properly to be sure.
Cheers, D.G.
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Update on machine tripping safety switch. If you have pulled apart your machine and cleaned your boiler and then after reassembling your safety switch keeps tripping when powering the machine on, it is a possibility that there is moisture around your elements that is causing the problem. To test, make sure your machine is unplugged from the wall, disconnect the four wires to the boiler element. Turn on, if the Safety Switch (RCD, GFC) does not trip then it's a good chance that it is your heating elements (2 U shaped things externally on your boiler. To fix this I pulled the boiler out, took off the thermostat and steam valve, put the boiler in my oven for 1 hour at 150C.
Reassemble machine, no longer tripping the Safety Switch.
But now, my initial problem continues, no water through the group head.
How can the solenoid coil be tested?
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First the answer to your question re the elements :- Yes if you disconnect the elements, and the breaker doesn't trip when you turn the machine on, then that would prove that they are the problem. Whether it is moisture in them is another question, but it is a strong possibility especially if you had a bit of overflow or liquid sloshing around while you were de-scaling the boiler.
I just re-read your previous post (#18) and my last one, and there are a couple of points I think I should make clearer.
In my earlier posts I was assuming (there's that dreaded word again!) that the wiring was correct before you dismantled the machine.
That the breaker was tripping before you turned the machine on indicates that the blue & brown wires were reversed before you got it.
After these wires were changed back, the breaker only tripped when you turned it on, & that is further proof that they were reversed.
It also reverses one of my earlier conclusions - i.e that the fault/moisture must be in the socket or the on/off switch.
Now that we know those wires were transposed, it means instead that the socket is definitely O.K.
The problem is downstream from the on/off switch now that the blue & brown wires are where they belong.
In my last post I said that if the wiring was all correct that one of the components must be faulty.
This also includes moisture in any of the components.
One of the thermostats was loose too, so moisture could have seeped into one of them too.
There is a way to progressively test each of the components sequentially - I will send you a PM about this soon.
Cheers, D.G.
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Thanks again for your help deegee!
I'm assuming my wiring is correct and that there is moisture in the element. If I disconnect the elements and the machine does not trip the safety switch, would that indicate that the fault is only the elements? If so, I was going to pull the boiler out again and put it in the oven to dry out. I tried a blow drier for a bit, but it seemed tedious, plus it did not work.
If this does not work, I'll start another thread! Cheers!
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