Originally posted by tomo88
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Breville BES920 Dual Boiler - Owners thread
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First crack or nothing
- Nov 13
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The pipe that goes through the stream boiler on its way to the brew boiler is completely sealed from the steam boiler. It only absorbs heat like a heat exchanger, the water and steam from the steam boiler cannot travel to the brew boiler. If that pipe is blocked somewhere that would stop the flow. You should check the water flow path from the pump all the way to the brew boiler of this is the actual problem. It might also be the OPV diverting the water back to the water tank. Have you removed the shower screen and checked it's all clean etc?Originally posted by tomo88 View Post
Nice, thanks for the clarification. It looked like it did, so my issue is water getting from the steam boiler to the GH boiler. I don't think the steam boiler is empty cause it's producing a constant amount of steam so Im not sure what causes/pumps the water from steam boiler to GH boiler. I'll have a look and make sure that pfte line between em is good to go after I changed o rings. It was double O ringed when I opened it up; figured that may have been the cause of the leak so I went with just one but I might try put two again.
There are a few fittings that use 2 o-rings, always replace like for like.
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Update on how I went for anyone curious/may come across same problem:
-firstly attempted to double O ring the steam to GH boiler connection, absolutely lost my mind trying to fit the metal clip in so gave up and stuck with just the one, did not leak from the point during heat up as it did when I initially opened it.
-opened up from the bottom of the machine as I saw in another guide that's where the inline filter is. I'd seen in another article that this caused flow rate issues. It looked relatively clean so put everything back.
Turned it on and lo and behold it was pumping, I didn't really change anything but may have had an airlock somewhere. Tested with blanking plate and gave it a run of the cleaning cycle and it held 9 bar well. Water coming out into drip tray was quite clean. After the clean cycle, it poured well out of the group head, a constant 4 streams. Confused as to what have may been the issue; I still think I may require a descale as I think it may be lucky it's good to go again. It potentially just needed the new pump and solenoid to fill with water but am unsure.
For anyone attempting pump and solenoid changes, one thing that caught me that I didn't see in videos was that the crimp connectors have a locking tab that you need to press through the hole in the connector to allow it to disconnect. I was reefing on them with no luck until I googled to see if they had a locking mechanism. Easiest thing to do is cut the heat shrink so you can see the hole or just take a wild guess like me and send a small pin through and hope you hit it.
Edit: just a thought too, I dipped a skewer into both tanks prior to retrying and it was bone dry in the GH boiler and bugger all in the steam. Next time I would have filled them manually just so if it is a case of needing to run the pump to fill with water/get out air that it isn't running dry in the boiler. Odd that it didn't cut off or something to prevent the boiler from overheating also to think of it. I checked fault log and 08:99 (water flow error) and 11:99 (steam overheat)
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So my machine had been nagging me for a few weeks to do a descaling, and I'd also had a leaky oring on the steam boiler, so I figured I'd do that all Friday night. So come 3am it's no longer hissing from the leaking oring, new one seems to be sealing fine. Or is it? I've now got the dreaded "3 beeps" from the steam wand that I've read about a lot after googling it after doing the descaling. Steam boiler just isn't heating or filling. The descaling was the newer blank screen, 3x 20 minutes job. I've tried the various tricks I've read about: resetting water hardness. Disconnecting the sensor to trigger the pump to fill it. Waiting overnight for a mysterious "reset" that never comes. Anything else I can try before hitting up breville?
This machine is a replacement machine for a warranty return via David Jones towards the end of the original machine's warranty. I think David Jones probably don't have any liability now (it's well past the original warranty date), but maybe breville will come to the party since it looks to be a wide spread issue?
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How full is the steam boiler supposed to get? I can do the sensor trick to fill it right up again. It seems to be getting some water though when redoing the descaling cycle, but it's coming out at a trickle when undoing the drain screw, and not hot/steaming
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First crack or nothing
- Nov 13
- 3443
- Sydney (West)
- Filter or long black: clean with crisp acidity
- Send PM
Sounds like it's not heating. Could be just the thermal fuse blown if you're lucky, or the steam element gone (which requires replacing the whole steam boiler).
The following assumes you are suitably licenced and experienced to carry out the work mentioned:
There are instructions out there for replacing the thermal fuse, you could use them to access it and test it with a multimeter. There might be a way to test the fuse without accessing it but I haven't looked into that. What you should probably do is check the steam element resistance with a multimeter to rule that out as that is accessible from the top.
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I just attempted a descale on my BES920 that I'd refurbed with new pump and solenoid. It may be an older firmware as when i turned it off and on it went straight back to boiling. I got the 'valv' error and couldn't figure it out. I pulled it apart again and pulled out the 3 x probs on the steam and 2 x on group head boiler and definitely noticed some limescale on them as well as being still damp. so gave them a wipe down and put them back in and it went well. I tried to do it again but got the 'valv' again so just wiped them down again and it worked. This time im leaving the top open so if i need to dry off the probes it'll be easier. I'd suggest filling manually via a funnel, turn it on, let it heat and then run the water, let it sit in the system for the 20 minutes then drain via the drain plugs when the machine is off. fill with fresh water via funnel and repeat. any one have any other alternative ways to do it? also level3ninja at what points can you measure the resistance acress the element? I'm guessing youre looking for something <4 ohm ie. short? open would indicate burn out?
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I have a BES920 which was serviced only 1 year ago. Recently, the pre infusion time became too short: 5 sec. I adjusted to 13 sec, still coffee begins dripping after 5 sec. What could be wrong?
Perhaps I should mention something immediately after service a year ago. Parts replaced service:1. shower head inner group head seal, 2, Pump, 3. Coffee valve safety kit, 4. Triac PCB. The pressure was over 10 bars when I took the machine home. I called the service guy and he assured me everything would be fine. That's where the machine has been operating since. Does that have anything to do with it?
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I just noticed something which I failed to report. Coffee starts to drip after about 5 sec when the pressure is about 5 bars. Then pressurethen reaches10 bars at whatever time programmed for pre infusion.Looks like a leaky seal which could not withstand the low pre infusion pressure. Is it DIY replaceable?Originally posted by ianm0 View PostYes pump operational at 5 sec. It happened suddenly and I have been using the same bag of coffee.Last edited by ianm0; 4 November 2021, 10:46 AM.
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hi ianm0
Sorry if i have missed it , but preinfusion is set for what percentage power. ( default is something like 55 or 60% for 8 seconds) ( so yours is now what over 13 seconds?). My coffee (at 8.5 bar pressure) starts its pour ( into the cup) at around 4-5 seconds and then continues to ramp pressure until peak.... so i think your machine's behaviour is normal. Are you achieving your extraction preference in the expected time ( in my instance 16 gms in , 32-34 gms out in approx 30 seconds) or does the early pour speed up the extraction (ie too quick a pour) . If overall too quick then dosing and grinding as mentioned above are variables. If still not sure you can adjust your preinfusion pressure lower as a percentage.( dont forget your OPV setting is quite high at over 10 bar, so your preinfusion percentage is calculated off that peak figure.
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First crack or nothing
- Nov 13
- 3443
- Sydney (West)
- Filter or long black: clean with crisp acidity
- Send PM
Can you upload a video to YouTube and post a link, everything you've described so far sounds like either it's OK or its related to the ground coffee and tamping etcOriginally posted by ianm0 View Post
I just noticed something which I failed to report. Coffee starts to drip after about 5 sec when the pressure is about 5 bars. Then pressurethen reaches10 bars at whatever time programmed for pre infusion.Looks like a leaky seal which could not withstand the low pre infusion pressure. Is it DIY replaceable?
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Thanks for replies. I'll recheck grind to see. I will also change setting of my Smart Grinder Pro to see if things improve.
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Indeed. A grind issue. More basically the Smart Grinder Pro problem. It's been 6 years old without any maintenance. Gave it a deep clean, upper burr setting changed from 6(default) to 4 and everything works fine again. The residual coffee gumming up the grinder could have reduced the cutting efficiency.
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Hi guys,
My ~6year old dual boiler is giving me the old valv error when descaling. Is there a part i can replace to get this to work?
The machine works fine otherwise, its just the descale function and only after the ~20min of leaving the descale solution in the boilers. I empty the boilers and it always refuses to pull in the clean water.
I usually have to turn off the machine and manually put clean water in the top of the steam boiler. Once it detects some water in there, it seems to be able to fill it without any dramas - but by this stage, the descale process has been cancelled.
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