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  • I am new to making my own coffee at home and bought a Breville Dual Boiler this week.

    I am finding it impossible to dial in my espresso shots. It is over extracting and the weight out is way over the 1:1.5 ratio. The coffee flows way too quickly from the PF (I am getting more like over 70 or 80 grams of coffee out).

    I am using the breville smart grinder pro and even at its finest setting this is happening.

    My process is as follows:
    • weigh out 18 grams of beans into grinder
    • grind beans into PF
    • tap PF out a little to even out
    • tamp evenly and firmly
    • press single cup button which is still on factory settings (I think7 second PI, ends at 30 seconds)
    Any help anyone could provide is massively appreciated, it is very frustrating to be so far off the mark.

    Comment


    • Blues1143
      Blues1143 commented
      Editing a comment
      Couple of things - add in a cheap wdt tool, you are likely not grinding fine enough (sgp may need the inner burr reset or a shim but I am not a sgp expert) and just use the manual mode with scales while getting started IMHO.

    • AnnieB
      AnnieB commented
      Editing a comment
      I had exactly the same issue this week with my new BES920. Grind on No 1(finest) but still flowing way too, fast like you 80g out. I set aside an afternoon watching and reading everything I could get my hands on (even if I already thought I knew it), that plus a ½ kilo of coffee to practice on getting it right. in the end I have the inner bur set at 2 and the grinder number 4 on screen (and have purchased freshly roasted beans).

      Initially I found all those posts I had read saying finer grind, more coffee, even tamping, better coffee etc starting to irritate me because (I thought) I couldn't get a finer grind or fit any more coffee in the portafilter. So I dropped the recipe rules and focused on making adjustments to the bur setting and grind setting on screen to get the coffee to flow like honey (regardless of the grams in). Once I got this to happen it all just fell into place. I had room to adjust the grind based on desired input and output. I'm still learning but way ahead of where I was a week ago.

      If you purchased the machine in the last few weeks there is a bonus offer you can redeem on the Breville website that includes an online master class. I haven't done it yet so not sure what it has to offer, but could be worthwhile.
      Good luck

  • Originally posted by CoffeeNovice64 View Post
    I am new to making my own coffee at home and bought a Breville Dual Boiler this week.

    I am finding it impossible to dial in my espresso shots. It is over extracting and the weight out is way over the 1:1.5 ratio. The coffee flows way too quickly from the PF (I am getting more like over 70 or 80 grams of coffee out).

    I am using the breville smart grinder pro and even at its finest setting this is happening.

    My process is as follows:
    • weigh out 18 grams of beans into grinder
    • grind beans into PF
    • tap PF out a little to even out
    • tamp evenly and firmly
    • press single cup button which is still on factory settings (I think7 second PI, ends at 30 seconds)
    Any help anyone could provide is massively appreciated, it is very frustrating to be so far off the mark.
    Couple of things to unpack here.

    Firstly and most importantly, what beans are you using and how long has it been since your beans were roasted?

    Secondly, as Blues1143 said you need to adjust the upper burr holder to make it grind finer. There are instructions with pictures in the user manual.

    Thirdly, that grinder does not do well single dosing. If you aren't weighing the output and topping up as necessary, you're almost certainly not getting 18.0g out from 18.0g in. It works best when the hopper is at least 1/3 full. What scales are you using? Do they go down to 0.1g?

    Fourthly, you're going to need to program the shot buttons to your desired output. Every different type of coffee (and even different water chemistry but that's for another day) will behave differently, so the machine is almost never going to give you the right amount out of the box. I would recommend going into the advanced menu (with the machine off hold 1 cup button and press the power button, check the manual for more details) and changing the "vol" setting from "sec" (or time based dosing) to "flo" (or whatever the other setting is - volumetric based dosing).

    Do these and you'll be well on your way to more consistent coffee. Let us know if you have any issues or questions.

    Comment


    • Trying to figure out where to go next with my issue...

      NTC is good
      Fuse and thernostat good
      Element tested and working
      Triac has been replaced (works in another machine so know its good)

      But for some reason steam boiler power isn't being triggered, any ideas????


      Dannok
      Junior Member
      Last edited by Dannok; 1 week ago.

      Comment


      • Dannok
        Dannok commented
        Editing a comment
        Yep steam is back!

        Red is the short probe, blue and ground are the long probes.

      • greatdane
        greatdane commented
        Editing a comment
        Thanks, that is what I have as well.
        So, I have an error somewhere else.

        Do you know how to test if the probes are working?

      • level3ninja
        level3ninja commented
        Editing a comment
        greatdane
        Junior Member
        greatdane with the machine unplugged, disconnect the probe cables and measure resistance between the probes with a multimeter. The long probe should always have continuity to the boiler, and when the middle probe loses conductivity to the long probe the steam pump should turn on until the short probe has continuity with the long probe

    • Hello everyone,

      I have a dual boiler which is a couple of years old and from fear of anything going wrong with it (steam valve already hissing from maybe o rings), bought another dual boiler for 1049 on special and use the other as a backup.

      what is the best way to store the older machine. I read maybe draining the boilers, anything else I should do?

      cheers Daisy

      Comment


      • level3ninja
        Lighter than medium roast
        level3ninja Thanks.
        Just checking, looking from front of the machine, I have red cable (short probe), blue cable (long probe and ground (long probe)

        So after disconnecting cables and from power - I will measure the continuity
        • blue cable (long) probe and boiler - always continuity
        • manually top-up steam boiler - to avoid turning machine on and having to wait to cool down
        • measure across blue probe (long) and red probe (short) - there should be continuity, with water touching both probes.
        • then drain steam boiler to make sure there should not be any water covering the blue (long) and red (short) probe.
        • Measure continuity, same as before, this time no continuity as water is not touching both probes.
        Two subsequent question if I may;
        1. What purpose does the grounded probe perform?
        2. The most dreaded question, if continuity is, as designed and the steam pump still doesn't re-fill the steam boiler when water level drops below the short probe - does this mean we are talking triac board replacement or something else worthwhile checking first.
        thanks a lot for the help.

        Comment


        • Originally posted by greatdane View Post
          level3ninja
          Lighter than medium roast
          level3ninja Thanks.
          Just checking, looking from front of the machine, I have red cable (short probe), blue cable (long probe and ground (long probe)

          So after disconnecting cables and from power - I will measure the continuity
          • blue cable (long) probe and boiler - always continuity
          • manually top-up steam boiler - to avoid turning machine on and having to wait to cool down
          • measure across blue probe (long) and red probe (short) - there should be continuity, with water touching both probes.
          • then drain steam boiler to make sure there should not be any water covering the blue (long) and red (short) probe.
          • Measure continuity, same as before, this time no continuity as water is not touching both probes.
          Two subsequent question if I may;
          1. What purpose does the grounded probe perform?
          2. The most dreaded question, if continuity is, as designed and the steam pump still doesn't re-fill the steam boiler when water level drops below the short probe - does this mean we are talking triac board replacement or something else worthwhile checking first.
          thanks a lot for the help.
          greatdane
          Junior Member
          greatdane I don't remember which probe is which length, but mine has the yellow/green wire on the left probe (hot water knob side), blue on the middle probe, and red on the right probe (steam lever side).

          I would start by pulling the probes and checking where the water level actually is, then wipe the probes down, put them back and measure resistance to see if it matches what's expected.

          I don't actually know if the longest probe should have continuity to the boiler, but that's my guess since they should both be contacting the water.

          If you have continuity and it won't fill, I would have a suitably qualified person check power to the steam pump and see if there is power there but the pump isn't running (dead pump). More than that I don't know.

          Comment


          • greatdane
            greatdane commented
            Editing a comment
            @level3ninja,

            yep, your memory is correct.
            The blue (middle) and ground (left, hot water knob) are the long ones and the red (right) is the short probe.

            Took probes out and checked continuity between outside boiler section (cable connector) and inside boiler section (stem/rod) and that confirmed continuity.

            However, with full steam boiler there was no continuity between either long probe and the boiler.
            I thought perhaps the water resistance was too much for my hobby multimeter to react on continuity setting.
            So, I took probes out and put in cup of water and thinking there should be continuity between in the two probes in the water - same thing no sound.
            However, I could measure a high resistance.
            Similar with probe back in boiler and thinking I could measure the resistance between either long probe and the boiler - but nothing.
            My multimeter just says "OL" open circuit.

            On the steam pump, good point - I might try and check that, ii it is still working.
            I suspect, I might need to swap the main pump in near future as well after ~630 on the shot counter.

            thanks for helping out.

          • level3ninja
            level3ninja commented
            Editing a comment
            greatdane
            Junior Member
            greatdane the continuity buzzer can be a bit deceiving, just go by the numbers on the display as a general rule. Not quite sure what you mean about checking between the cable connector and the probe, I was only talking about checking between the probes themselves with the cables disconnected. If you're not getting a low reading between the probes there's two possibilities, probes need cleaning or the water is too pure and needs more minerals (pure water doesn't conduct electricity, it's the impurities that allow it to conduct).

          • greatdane
            greatdane commented
            Editing a comment
            Thanks
            level3ninja
            Lighter than medium roast
            level3ninja

            I just thought I would check nothing had happened with probes - so checked continuity either side of the ceramic isolation bit, to make sure that the cable connector could read from the submerged section.

            Doing the check you suggested just gave me "OL" open circuit in the boiler and when I put them probes in a glass of water, I got a very large resistance, no continuity buzzer.

            I did clean the probes when I first experienced the issue, they were covered in a brownish film and they are now back to shiny.

            Interesting on the Water, I have never cheeked the minerals etc. but just used water from fridge, which passes through a "pre"-filter and the standard fridge filter.
            I'm on lower North Shore in Sydney and I think getting water supply from Ryde.
            I could try just plain tap water.

            I have more or less set my mind to changing the coffee pump, due to issues with pre-infusion not possible at less than 65% and potential the steam pump while I'm at it.
            Unless, I have a lightbulb moment.
            I can't really complain, I got this really cheap with a broken OPV, which I changed and getting some goods shots and textured milk, as long as I do the manual water top up.
            It has 630 on shot counter, so some thing like 6300 shots - so probably time.
            I think previous owners never used with the single walled baskets as they were brand-new still in the cardboard box.
            On that note, it seems most replacement Ulka coffee pumps are 48W, but I thought I read somewhere the originals were 52W - but perhaps I got that wrong.

        • Hi all,

          My 5 yo 3000 shot 920 is sad. Took it to the repair man, gave me back a list of parts longer than my arm. Repair cost was quoted at $670! Have the machine back, still (just) working. Some of the issues I can live with - eg leaking steam wand, but I will need to replace the o-rings, pump, solenoid at least. Any recommendations for a good parts supplier?

          Cheers

          Comment


          • level3ninja
            level3ninja commented
            Editing a comment
            Outwest Coffee is cheap, but a bit disorganised. He follows up though and will sort out any issues. I buy O rings etc from RS Components.

          • mctubster
            mctubster commented
            Editing a comment
            Cheers, thanks for that

        • Hello everyone

          New to the site after lurking for many years.

          I have an unusual problem with my BES920 machine: the steam boiler heats up (but doesn’t overheat) despite the machine being off. A Killer Watt device shows the power draw regularly cycling between 1kW and 0.6W while the machine is off. No leaks in any boiler, though the ball valve is due replacing. The Triac board is dry with no evidence of burnout or damage.

          The problem comes after a (dreaded) Descale that went crook. I needed the service menu reset to get rid of the Descale message and the thermal fuse on the steam boiler then burnt out and needed replacing (no steam as a result).

          I replaced the thermal fuse and this restored the steam function. Pulls shots and steams milk as well as ever. But now steam boiler is continuously hot (Machine off or on). I have to switch off at the wall for the machine to fully cool down. Searched the web, but most advice is about continuous overheating, which I don’t believe applies in my case.

          The machine is well out of warranty.

          I would appreciate any advice for a home fix.

          Thanks in advance

          Naj

          Comment

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