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Time for some Gaggia Classic upgrades. PID, steam wand, grinder, other??

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  • #16
    I guess it’s just for accuracy. If 10 static for 9 operating is close enough. Doubt it makes much difference.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by Janus View Post
      I guess it’s just for accuracy. If 10 static for 9 operating is close enough. Doubt it makes much difference.

      I grabbed a needle valve anyway so will test the theory about static. I tried to do it last night but got stuck at trying to unscrew the spout from the group head. I don't have a vice so I slid a 5mm rod (alley key) into the hole on the spout to get some leverage. I managed about 1/4 turn before the allen key broke! bloody tight.

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      • #18
        Another update for a new Father-to-be (of a Gaggia Classic and a new baby human!)

        Originally posted by manchu View Post
        A quick update: Group head seal replaced (I went for silicone) and silva wand fitted. The seal obviously improves things as it was leaking quite badly. The wand is so much better you have to wonder why Gaggia put that plastic piece of @#$^ on the machines.

        I have some paternity leave coming up any day now so I'll try and DIY the PID during my few weeks off.

        A new grinder is on the list but I'm having trouble justifying spending hundreds to the CFO.

        It might be a viable alternative if it was only me using the machine, but I can't see my Mrs thinking too highly of it. I do like the idea of no external hardware though.
        Manchu, I just came across your post and had to reach out to see if you'd be willing to offer an update on where your Gaggia upgrades ended up. I'm a Pavoni level guy (and father-to-be... circa March 3, 2019) who is looking to vastly simplify the morning coffee ritual and reduce its time-and-maintenance requirements with a semi-auto machine.

        I don't have the space for a "better machine" and have found a used Classic on Craigslist (here in Portland, OR) that I'm thinking about buying. I know I would immediately want to replace the steam wand and grouphead gasket, but was wondering whether you ended up doing anything with PID boiler control and what your experience was like doing so. I'm a EE and would be comfortable with the DIY PID approach but was just mining for others' experiences with various PIDs on the Gaggia Classic. Not yet convinced the PID would be much of an improvement on a machine with such a tiny boiler, but then again, I haven't even used the machine before so what do I know?

        I hope you and your family are doing well.

        Cheers,
        Tim

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        • #19
          [QUOTE=timblaktu;637333 Just mining for others' experiences with various PIDs on the Gaggia Classic. Not yet convinced the PID would be much of an improvement on a machine with such a tiny boiler, but then again, I haven't even used the machine before so what do I know? .
          Cheers, Tim[/QUOTE]

          G'day Tim, I rebuilt a couple of Gaggia Classics a few years ago and I bought a PID and an SSR for one of them, but I never fitted them, mainly because I realized that it was not going to help much, because the boiler is so small.

          The deciding factor was a post here on CS by sponsor Rick Bond, ( The Coffee Machinist ) pointing out that the Classic's main problem is intra-shot temperature drop which could be offset by flicking the steam switch on/off for a few seconds just before pulling the shot.

          https://coffeesnobs.com.au/brewing-e...p-surfing.html

          So I fitted a temperature sensor, connected to a digital meter instead of the PID. I would flick the steam switch on and when the meter showed about 120° C , flick it off, and pull the shot. This might seem very hot, but it was reading the external temp on the top of the boiler - not the water inside. The standard brew thermostat, which reads boiler casing temperature, operates at 107°, and overshoots by several degrees each time it cycles.

          I also used it to help with steaming milk - If I waited for the light to come on before steaming, I was relying on the residual heat in the boiler, which drops quite quickly, and sometimes ran low on steam at the end. But if I started steaming at about 130°, the elements would stay on, the temp would slowly increase, and the steam thermostat would not turn the elements off until I was nearly finished.

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          • #20
            Just updating this thread as I've been tinkering with my classic. I haven't upgraded much really, but I've had a few issues over the last year or so, hence the tinkering.

            First issue was low water flow. I pulled the machine apart found some crud lodged in the solenoid valve. A nice free fix and was good to get me familiar with the machine internals.

            Next issue was a leaking steam valve, which was a simple fix to install a new valve. A$70 or so.

            Last week I had another flow problem, but this time it was only low when pulling a shot which led me to suspect an issue with the pressure so i finally got around to fitting the pressure gauge to my portafilter and measured a lowly 3-4 bar. I figured there's only a few possible causes so I started the process of elimination:

            - a leak in the system. I couldn't see any large/obvious leaks when viewing process with cover removed so not that
            - issue with OPV. no water passed the OPV during the process so no that either
            - issue with pump. definitely the cause.

            Googling returned a lot of 'how to replace pump' instructions but none on pump repair so I figured it's not serviceable, but I decided to rip it out and have a closer look. I'm glad I did because I found the issue, fixed it for free per the following steps:

            1) Remove pump from machine and remove the elbow fitting from the pump outlet (per instructions for replacing pump).
            2) Remove all remnants of thread sealant from inside the plastic outlet of the pump.
            3) Unscrew the small plastic ring piece inside the pump outlet which retains a spring/rubber plug piece. (I used a small 2 prong fork fitting from a screwdriver set, like a flat head screwdriver with a slot in the middle).
            3) Inspect plug and internals for stuff that shouldn't be there, and clean up. (I found a piece of black plastic, which I assume had somehow made its way into the water tank and then sucked up by the pump).
            4) Re-install the spring/plug and retaining ring. Screw it all the way in, not too tight. (I imagine the ring is easy to break if you're rough so be careful)
            5) Re-assemble the pump into machine. Enjoy.


            My machine is now running great again and actually better than before as i made the OPV adjustment at the same time.

            Over the last 2yrs i've also improved my process/technique a lot so am getting better results without any costly machine mods.

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