Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Two Sunbeam EM6910 's different ?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Two Sunbeam EM6910 's different ?

    I just got a second hand machine.
    The baskets and group handles are different even though it's the same model number as my previous one.
    The one I just bought has smooth rim on the baskets and my old one has a ridge. My older one has Steel group head base where this new one looks like plastic.
    I also have another group handle from my first machine from ten years ago which is different again.
    When I put my riged basket and group handle in this latest machine coffee poured so quick and spat coffee out from around the top of the group handle and collar.
    I'm also having to adjust my coffee grind it's quite coarse on setting 14 on my ten year old 480 grinder.
    Can anyone give me tips on what changes happened with these machines and what adjustments I may need to make compared to the old one.
    Where can I find the build year on them also.
    I'll try and upload some photos if I can but I'm not sure how to do it
    Attached Files

  • #2
    different group heads
    Attached Files

    Comment


    • #3
      Coffee shot
      Attached Files

      Comment


      • #4
        Portafilters..
        Middle one is stainless. Right is brass.
        I think left is brass, but unsure with the plastic in bottom
        Either is fine, easier to convert the brass one to naked if you want

        Comment


        • #5
          Not sure about baskets. Haven't seen the the style on a 6910.

          Differences on the machine is indicated by the float on the drip tray. Oval vs round. Oval is newer, round is better machine and older. Can't recall the differences but they are on here a few times.
          Search some of tampit posts. He detailed the differences

          Comment


          • #6
            Oops after researching on this site I have found out this latest machine I've bought is infact an EM6900
            not an EM6910
            I'll start reading up on posts regarding this model.
            Still got no idea how old it is.
            I'll do a few more shits tomorrow and see how I go

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by latte_girl View Post
              Oops after researching on this site I have found out this latest machine I've bought is infact an EM6900
              not an EM6910
              I'll start reading up on posts regarding this model.
              Still got no idea how old it is.
              I'll do a few more shits tomorrow and see how I go
              If the 6900 is still leaking while you do your "shits" tomorrow, and a spacer does not fix it I may still have a "very near new" 6900 collar for you gratis. A few years back 5 senses "helpfully" "repaired" my 2008 6910 under warranty by using a 6900 collar. After a couple of weeks the machine leaked everywhere - not a surprise as the 5 senses service tech had to bend the 6910 frame quite a lot and could only put 1/2 the screws back in as nothing lines up. I recently did a cull of my 6910s and parts (I kept my "318" machine - see below), however I probably / possibly kept the 6900 collar to pay forward to a good cause.

              FYI, the 6900 is a pretty poor machine compared to the 6910. Paul Bassett was the world barista champ at the time (2003 from memory) and he did a pretty thorough redesign of the 6900 when he developed the earlier 6910s (the ones with a round red drip tray indicator, not the red rectangular / "slim oval" one).

              Age: the 6910 has a manufacturer date code stamped inside the back panel. My old one is "318" which is the 31st week of 2008 (i.e. August). IF the 6900 uses the same method, it would end in a 6 (or 5, 4 etc) which is the last digit of the year. The earliest 6910 I have seen is 2006, the last good (old style) one is late 2009. The earliest 2010 I know of is a new style. The older 6910s are noticeably better (based on over a dozen of each).

              Portafilters: My 318 came with a brass p/f - preferred by me as it heats up faster and is a lot easier to convert to a naked. Use a standard power drill and 62?mm holesaw, less than 5 minutes, no fluid needed unless your holesaw is rubbish - I use Josco, Sutton or Irwin in order of preference. Just make sure the holesaw is a snug fit at the bottom of the p/f when matching the size, drill it from the inside - then the p/f hole plus the inner diameter of the p/f will guide the holesaw so only a quick file cleanup is needed. Both your left and right ones look like chrome covered brass in the photo. If you are going to convert one to naked, scratch the inside (where it will be removed) and see what colour it is. Brass is yellowish... BTW, I suggest you remove the useless bit of plastic before you use that one to make a shot to drink - you will see why when the amount of coffee crud is revealed...

              My 2010 (April?) came with a thin stainless steel p/f. Quite poor balance (even worse balance if converted to naked - use LOTS of cutting fluid and preferably a "machine shop drill setup" at low revs). Your middle one looks like this p/f. Later newer ones had much thicker stainless (seems to take days to warm up) and then the 7000 went thicker again (weeks to warm up all the way through). Converting either of those to a naked really needs a machine shop with a lathe.

              Baskets: the earlier 6910s had baskets with a rounded shoulder on top. The later ones had a sharp ridge on top of the shoulder. The later ones are good enough for learning - about equivalent to those "precision" EP / EQ / HQ baskets. The earlier ones vary like mad - from poor to mediocre. I would suggest you upgrade to a 15g ridgeless (i.e. no ridge halfway down the basket) VST rather than waste time and gain frustration trying to use them. FWIW, I think all my friends and rellies cleaned out all my later SB baskets, so I hope you have at least one of them at your abode.

              I hope this helps your coffee journey. PM me if my sleep deprived rambles do not make sense to you.

              Enjoy your cuppa


              TampIt

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by TampIt View Post
                If the 6900 is still leaking while you do your "shits" tomorrow, and a spacer does not fix it I may still have a "very near new" 6900 collar for you gratis. A few years back 5 senses "helpfully" "repaired" my 2008 6910 under warranty by using a 6900 collar. After a couple of weeks the machine leaked everywhere - not a surprise as the 5 senses service tech had to bend the 6910 frame quite a lot and could only put 1/2 the screws back in as nothing lines up. I recently did a cull of my 6910s and parts (I kept my "318" machine - see below), however I probably / possibly kept the 6900 collar to pay forward to a good cause.

                FYI, the 6900 is a pretty poor machine compared to the 6910. Paul Bassett was the world barista champ at the time (2003 from memory) and he did a pretty thorough redesign of the 6900 when he developed the earlier 6910s (the ones with a round red drip tray indicator, not the red rectangular / "slim oval" one).

                Age: the 6910 has a manufacturer date code stamped inside the back panel. My old one is "318" which is the 31st week of 2008 (i.e. August). IF the 6900 uses the same method, it would end in a 6 (or 5, 4 etc) which is the last digit of the year. The earliest 6910 I have seen is 2006, the last good (old style) one is late 2009. The earliest 2010 I know of is a new style. The older 6910s are noticeably better (based on over a dozen of each).

                Portafilters: My 318 came with a brass p/f - preferred by me as it heats up faster and is a lot easier to convert to a naked. Use a standard power drill and 62?mm holesaw, less than 5 minutes, no fluid needed unless your holesaw is rubbish - I use Josco, Sutton or Irwin in order of preference. Just make sure the holesaw is a snug fit at the bottom of the p/f when matching the size, drill it from the inside - then the p/f hole plus the inner diameter of the p/f will guide the holesaw so only a quick file cleanup is needed. Both your left and right ones look like chrome covered brass in the photo. If you are going to convert one to naked, scratch the inside (where it will be removed) and see what colour it is. Brass is yellowish... BTW, I suggest you remove the useless bit of plastic before you use that one to make a shot to drink - you will see why when the amount of coffee crud is revealed...

                My 2010 (April?) came with a thin stainless steel p/f. Quite poor balance (even worse balance if converted to naked - use LOTS of cutting fluid and preferably a "machine shop drill setup" at low revs). Your middle one looks like this p/f. Later newer ones had much thicker stainless (seems to take days to warm up) and then the 7000 went thicker again (weeks to warm up all the way through). Converting either of those to a naked really needs a machine shop with a lathe.

                Baskets: the earlier 6910s had baskets with a rounded shoulder on top. The later ones had a sharp ridge on top of the shoulder. The later ones are good enough for learning - about equivalent to those "precision" EP / EQ / HQ baskets. The earlier ones vary like mad - from poor to mediocre. I would suggest you upgrade to a 15g ridgeless (i.e. no ridge halfway down the basket) VST rather than waste time and gain frustration trying to use them. FWIW, I think all my friends and rellies cleaned out all my later SB baskets, so I hope you have at least one of them at your abode.

                I hope this helps your coffee journey. PM me if my sleep deprived rambles do not make sense to you.

                Enjoy your cuppa


                TampIt
                Thank you so much for your in depth reply.
                I will do another 'shot' this morning lol.
                I'm thinking from memory the brass gh came from my first machine and I took the plastic out.
                I may try that with the rounded rim basket as the riged ones tend to not seal and coffee pours fast and everwhere I will have a play around tonight after work and check build number.
                this latest one has a red round water indicator button and a nut looking shape on the bottom of steam wand nozzle I still have my first old machine I can maybe swap nozzel with as I only ended up throwing the second machine away.
                Thinking i should have kept them both now lol.
                I can see me being the person constantly picking these old machines up if I can get 12 month out of them lol

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by latte_girl View Post
                  Thank you so much for your in depth reply.
                  I will do another 'shot' this morning I had a laugh.
                  I'm thinking from memory the brass gh came from my first machine and I took the plastic out.
                  I may try that with the rounded rim basket as the riged ones tend to not seal and coffee pours fast and everwhere I will have a play around tonight after work and check build number.
                  this latest one has a red round water indicator button and a nut looking shape on the bottom of steam wand nozzle I still have my first old machine I can maybe swap nozzel with as I only ended up throwing the second machine away.
                  Thinking i should have kept them both now I had a laugh.
                  I can see me being the person constantly picking these old machines up if I can get 12 month out of them I had a laugh
                  G'day again latte_girl

                  If the seal is OK and the spacing is correct, the newer ridged type should leak a lot less - so I suggest you consider making / beg buy or borrowing a spacer to lower the seal (the spacer goes above the seal) and therefore increase the pressure against the p/f.

                  Taking the plastic out of the brass p/f's is (IMO) essential for health and wellbeing. The amount of unwanted crud that gets underneath that plastic and then introduces so many healthy mould colonies is truly astonishing. Most of them have psychedelic colours (and possibly effects if you put more coffee through them).

                  I have only ever seen (and briefly used) a 6900 once (collar excepted) so I have no idea if the nozzles can be swapped. I still regard the 6910 as one of the few domestic machines that can steam milk at the same or better level than most commercial machines.

                  Treated properly, the 6910 will last a lot longer than a year! I just donated my 2006 6910 to one of my rellies in need (another dying 6 year old Sylvia, bought new, never run out of water). Mind you, in West Oz (you are Tas if I recall correctly) we are blessed with Bruno at CC (Hilton) who can repair and service anything from a $150 horror to a $28K monster brilliantly. If I am pushed for time I just tell the owner of the troublesome machine to take it to him and get it sorted.

                  Enjoy your cuppa


                  TampIt

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    With the posts on here, it is possible to turn a non working $20 machine into a very good and capable machine, and maintain it as such for many years

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      A few of us have fitted 4820 steam wand ends to our 6910 machines.
                      Some say it is not needed, but I think it is a good modification.

                      Enjoy your 6910.
                      My oldest machine, (which keeps blowing thermal fuses!!) has now done over 10,000 shots, more like 12,000.
                      But now has a new collar.

                      Comment

                      Working...
                      X