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  • More EM6910 Issues

    ...the ol' girl is still going but has been getting quite a work-out during COVID!!!

    A few little issues - I need to replace the head seal again (has a gasket in there also now) - but, because it hasn't been sealing really well for a while, I haven't been back-flushing (it all just spills out at the head) and now it doesn't "cough" after a brew either... I suspect there's a blocked pipe like I've had before and posted about here - but last time that happened the puck was really wet too - not this time...

    I'm not sure if the above is the root issue of the issues or not, but a couple of weeks ago, I suddenly had to back off the grinder (Sunbeam) quite a long way as it wasn't pushing through - getting some weird pressure issues during the brew too.

    Made me wonder, what's the best way to clean out the pipes? Piano / Guitar wire? Do the symptoms above suggest any other issues? Wondering if the water pump is dying and can't raise enough pressure? Wondering about the 3 way also... I'm able to make coffee still at the moment, but don't really want to take it apart, find I don't have the necessary parts and I'm out of action with another lot of postage and delays if I don't have to.

    Thanks in advance - we keep bringing it back to life so reluctant to give up on it now...

    Anthony..
    PS - oh, and it's leaking a little heat / water by the steam knob too!

  • #2
    Hi Tony
    It sounds like your 6910 is in need of some serious TLC.
    I would suggest you make a few tests and careful observations first to try to localise the problem.
    First, remove the seal and thoroughly check it for damage such as splits or tears, then clean out any traces of old cardboard shim, corrosion and grounds from the groove.
    Refit the seal with enough new shims to get it to lock in correctly at 90deg to the front of the machine.
    Do a test run using the backflush disk instead of coffee and watch for leaks. Also watch the pressure gauge and the little vent pipe at the back of the tray ( you will need to remove the top from the drip tray to see this).
    If you report back with your findings it may be possible to pinpoint the fault more accurately.

    Comment


    • #3
      What is the pressure gauge showing when pulling a shot? Is that normal?

      Comment


      • #4
        So, yesterday I made time to dismantle it again... (it's the putting it back together I dislike the most - the 4 screws that hold down the top are the hardest to get nicely lined up!)

        I re-packed under the seal with a cardboard cutout, ran some descaler through (the Sunbeam tablets) and had a good look around - the most obvious issue was the amount of crud under the shower screen... I couldn't see a major issue with the steam valve / leak, although it had corroded the small long screw that holds the actuator on to the splines - so the screw just snapped when I tried to remove it - but I don't see that this'll cause a major issue for now. I tried to nip up the 13mm bolt there, but it seemed tight anyhow. I cleaned that all up and put it back together. I did a few back flushes with cleaner powder, and it actually was spitting out in to the tray reasonably well...

        I was optimistic that things would be back to normal - but not quite...

        The seal is much better now, although I doubt the cardboard fix will last long - if I get on top of the other issues that's first on the list...

        On pulling a new shot, the pressure is inevitably more consistent, but the grinder (Sunbeam Cafe Series - 480?) still has to be set to double what it used to be (more coarse) - has always been down around 4-5, now I've had to move it up to 10-12 just to get anything pushed through. With the seal better than it was, the pressure is back up in the right range, but it does pulse a little - the pressure will fluctuate, dropping and climbing again. Given the pressure is back up in the right area, I guess the pump itself is ok. Maybe the issue is actually with the grinder too...

        I think the steam valve may have stopped leaking which is a bonus - I don't see that part commonly available when I do a quick search....

        I still don't think it's happy, but at least it's still functional for now....

        Comment


        • #5
          ...you can see here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TgrOOrNNESk

          Despite the pour being a touch tight, the pressure is mid-range, but then as the pour seems to loosen off, the pressure goes UP (??!!)

          I'm tamping with a lot less force now too.

          Comment


          • #6
            That's not good. I would guess something pump related, like it's on its last legs. Maybe noidle22 has seen that before and can give a more exact answer. If you take the shower screen out, and run the pump. Then one it's past the preinfusion put a weighed cup under the steam and start a timer. How much water do you get in 30s?

            Comment


            • #7
              You need to remove the screen and the little valve above it also (12mm I think) before you flow test the pump, as the valve upsets the readings. Well it did on mine.

              Comment


              • #8
                Not sure about steam valve parts. But I did lap my tap and seat and got a much better seal.

                Also, silicone group seals are available and are a fair bit nicer. Gunk up in the seal groove can be worthwhile removing.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Footleg View Post
                  ...you can see here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TgrOOrNNESk

                  Despite the pour being a touch tight, the pressure is mid-range, but then as the pour seems to loosen off, the pressure goes UP (??!!)

                  I'm tamping with a lot less force now too.
                  That's a failing coffee pump, it's unable to maintain full pressure and surges. Common on older or high use machines.

                  Replacing the pump can be troublesome. There is a small plastic valve on top of the pump which needs to be removed and installed on the new pump. Depending how much thread sealant they decided to use on the day it was built dictates if it's going to come out or snap as soon as you put any force on it. The part number for this valve is EM69132C.

                  The other option is swapping in a complete pump assembly from another machine. In this case you cut the upper rubber mount to remove the whole assembly. It's easiest to cut the mount to remove the pumps anyway, it won't affect the stability or dampening of the pump at all with a cut mount.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Helps to back off the 2 screws on top of pump, so the top of pump can be rotated so you can get spanner onto the pipe fittings.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Jackster View Post
                      Helps to back off the 2 screws on top of pump, so the top of pump can be rotated so you can get spanner onto the pipe fittings.
                      You can actually rotate the outlet on Ulka pumps without touching those screws, they designed it to do this I assume for more versatility during installation.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Thanks all - my first fear was that it was this pump starting to give up, looks like that may be the case... Seems that the pumps themselves are around $80 and you can get a kit for $120ish with the other parts that may be needed too...

                        Might have to start looking around for a replacement...

                        Comment


                        • level3ninja
                          level3ninja commented
                          Editing a comment
                          Those prices sound high unless you're including postage, or want an excuse to upgrade

                      • #13
                        Originally posted by noidle22 View Post

                        You can actually rotate the outlet on Ulka pumps without touching those screws, they designed it to do this I assume for more versatility during installation.
                        Oh, nice touch!
                        I figured to loosen it just in case it messed up that O ring in there.

                        Comment


                        • #14
                          ..of course, the next question is, what to replace it with - so the research begins and the pontificating... Another Sunbeam (7000/7100?), Breville, or low end of the range more serious stuff - perhaps something like the Lelit PL41LEM.

                          Comment


                          • #15
                            ...well, seems the pump held on for a while, but has probably now failed - but just checking with the group before I order the new parts... The pump is still making the normal noises, but both through the top and the water wand it's not pumping the normal volume - kinda dribbly / spitty. Per noidle22 above, I know I'm probably best to get the priming valve also (not just the pump) - any other recommended parts you'd suggest.

                            Comment

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