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Gaggia Paros resurrection
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Sounds to me as though you've had a near miss. Steam explosions can be nasty. I would say that there is a problem in the pressure relief valve. Strictly speaking the screws didn't shear, they broke under tensile stress and that shows why they used to use steam to propel trains!
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So I finally got all the new parts together, cleaned up and assembled and all looking good. Switched it on, primed the pump and filled the boiler no problem with the new boiler heating up nicely. Opened the steam valve and pumped some water out the steam wand, but there was quite a leak through the top of the valve, so I'm thinking it needs a new valve.
Then I switched it to steam and stepped away to grab something, heard it heating up and the click of the thermostat switching off and as I turned around there was a huge pop and a geyser of hot water jetting straight up - the new screws I'd used to attach the steam valve had sheared and the steam valve blew off...
I think it might be the end of the line for the Paros.. I'm not sure if I can extract the sheared ends of the screws, I'll have a go at superglueing the screws back together in the hope they will turn easily given they and the boiler a new. But the other big problem will be the leaky steam valve, it's not the same as a Gaggia Classic and no longer manufactured. I've found one in the UK but at $140 plus shipping I'm not sure it's worth it..
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Thanks Deegee, good tip about Jaycar, will pop it out to them and see if they have anything suitable.
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Stainless steel screws would be better, and I suspect that they would react a lot less than the originals - or most other metals. I used hex head SS bolts from Bunnings on one rebuild I did a few years ago and the machine was still working well last time I saw it just a couple of months ago.
As for the terminals, perhaps you could use a single two-screw connector. Bunnings sell them in strips of 12, but they can be cut off with a sharp knife. If you are not too far from a Jaycar shop, you could take the boiler there and ask them if they have anything that would do the job.
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Thanks for the advice, I'll have to try that technique when I get it back together.
I have now got it stripped down and soaking some of the parts in a descaling solution. One of the boiler screws snapped off when I was trying to separate the top and bottom, fortunately I was able to get the boiler off and after soaking the brew head in descaler the rest of the screw was persuaded out with some pliers.
A bunch of parts just arrived today, including the new boiler. I can't imagine descaling the old one, that looks horrid.... the brew head was in much better shape and cleaned up easily.
I've also got new seals, steam arm upgrade, new shower screen and upgraded chrome-plated brass shower screen holder.
Still to order - both thermostats and the silicon tube for the pump inlet.
Some of the screws were also quite rusty - the boiler screws, steam valve, water inlet and the three-way solenoid screws. Is marine-grade stainless steel going to be better than the standard screws? Or is it going to react with the aluminium of the boiler? Pretty sure I can get the required sizes in stainless steel from Bunnings, otherwise I have found the gaggia replacements online.
Also I'm still struggling to find the connectors that attach to the heating elements - any tips would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!
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I also used all the element cycling tricks on my Gaggia Classic and it made a huge difference. I never had a PID or temp gauge, but to be honest I’m not sure how much difference it would’ve made. By applying these methods consistently I was able to get really good, repeatable results. The steam power hack in particular is a good one that can be applied to a range of other small single boiler machines like the Saeco Via Venezia.Originally posted by deegee View PostWhen steaming milk I found that if I waited for the steam light to come on, then I was relying entirely on residual heat in the boiler, which drops away quite quickly, and usually ran low on steam before the milk was ready. But if I started steaming before the steam ready light came on, the elements were still on, and the thermostat would not turn them off until I was nearly finished. I found that the time from switch on to light on was pretty consistent - about 40 seconds I think - so I would start steaming about 25-30 second after I turned the steam switch on. Later I fitted a sensor to the top of the boiler, and a digital thermometer, and used that as a guide instead of counting off the seconds. I also used the sensor/ thermometer to pull better espresso shots. Once upon a time, there was a post here on CS by sponsor Rick Bond, ( The Coffee Machinist ) pointing out that one of the Classic's main problems is intra-shot temperature drop which could be offset by flicking the steam switch on for a few seconds then off again, just before pulling the shot. I used the thermometer to guide me when to flick off and pull the shot. It can be done without a meter, using trial and error to establish how long to leave the switch on before pulling the shot.
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Q : I wonder if a faulty thermostat could have caused the heating element to overheat?
A : As Leroy said, it is quite possible.
Q : Have you tried upgrading to a 155 degree thermostat? Apparently it improves the steam pressure
A : No, I did consider it, but could not source one at the time ( it was quite a while ago )
When steaming milk I found that if I waited for the steam light to come on, then I was relying entirely on residual heat in the boiler, which drops away quite quickly, and usually ran low on steam before the milk was ready.
But if I started steaming before the steam ready light came on, the elements were still on, and the thermostat would not turn them off until I was nearly finished.
I found that the time from switch on to light on was pretty consistent - about 40 seconds I think - so I would start steaming about 25-30 second after I turned the steam switch on.
Later I fitted a sensor to the top of the boiler, and a digital thermometer, and used that as a guide instead of counting off the seconds.
I also used the sensor/ thermometer to pull better espresso shots.
Once upon a time, there was a post here on CS by sponsor Rick Bond, ( The Coffee Machinist ) pointing out that one of the Classic's main problems is intra-shot temperature drop which could be offset by flicking the steam switch on for a few seconds then off again, just before pulling the shot. I used the thermometer to guide me when to flick off and pull the shot.
It can be done without a meter, using trial and error to establish how long to leave the switch on before pulling the shot.
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A faulty thermostat is highly likely. As the elements are on the outside of the boiler they tend to actually survive even the most heavily gunked up boilers. I’ve resurrected two Gaggia boilers and both of them needed new thermostats, but the heating was fine once everything was clean. I also put an upgraded thermostat on one of mine. It was ages ago so I can’t remember if it was a 155 sorry. I just bought it from an electrical supply place rather than a coffee or appliance repair outlet. They cautioned me on messing with thermostats, but it didn’t cause any issues. I’m not sure it made a huge difference, but it probably helped a little. I think I also got a better quality one as well in the hope it would last longer.
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Thanks Deegee, much appreciated! I'll try some regular silicon tubing and see how it goes.
I wonder if a faulty thermostat could have caused the heating element to overheat?
Have you tried upgrading to a 155 degree thermostat? Apparently it improves the steam pressure
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I have used regular silicone tubing for the pump pick-up line in a couple fo Classics, and it worked fine. I don't think that the suction is strong enough to cause a problem. The spring may be more to prevent kinking than flattening due to suction.
The rotating thermostat could be a problem - a faulty one I had to replace was loose like that, and the new one I bought was tight, with no movement at all.
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Is the thermostat meant to swivel or is that also a bad sign? The black part of the thermostat body rotates inside the brass section at the end..
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Thank you!
I've started on the list of parts and jobs:
1. New boiler - have found a couple of local suppliers online around $120-$130
2. Connectors - it's a bit difficult to hold the cable and get a photo, but the inside of the connector doesn't appear too bad and no damage to the wire and insulation, but to be safe I will try and source a replacement. Is RS components the best option for connectors and covers? I've had a quick look on their site but haven't yet found a replacement for the connector. Also the boiler suppliers don't have connectors mentioned but I will ask them just in case..
3. The pump suction pipe (part number PA1062) you can see this running from the tank pickup at the back right and into the pump inlet at the bottom left. It feels like a silicon tube but it has a spring inside it to prevent the pipe from collapsing under pressure. The ends look ok but the middle section around the spring is black on the inside. The part appears to be unique to the Paros and I can't find one anywhere. The closest I have found is a braided silicon tubing for Saeco and Gaggia machines, 8.9mm x 5mm x 630mm long for $52.90 or regular silicon tubing for $13 a metre. Is the regular tubing going to cope ok with the suction pump pressure?
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The covers for the connectors are RS Components part number 6881029 for the straight connectors and 6881026 for the right angle connectors.
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If the Paros boiler is the same as the Classic, and I believe that it is, then yes, the U shaped widgets are the elements.
In the 240 volt units they are connected in series, so if one fails (open circuit) then it takes out the other one, so there is no heating of either.
The blackening of the connectors is not normal, probably caused by a poor connection to the terminal getting hot or sparking under load.
You should replace the connectors as well as the boiler.
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Gaggia Paros resurrection
Hi,
I've just picked up a non-functioning Paros and hoping to get it working again without spending a fortune, but need some advice..
The machine turns on and the pump works, however the boiler doesn't warm up. I'm assuming that the heating elements are the two u-shaped attachments either side of the boiler, with the electrodes at the top. One of the elements creates a circuit when I attach a multimeter to the electrodes but nothing from the other element, so I'm assuming this is my culprit and I need to pick up a new boiler?
Also I'm a little concerned by the signs of heat / blackening of the connectors on the red wires that connect to the boiler (top right and bottom left) - is that normal?
Thanks!

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