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Is my Silvia dead?

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  • lastlineofdefence
    replied
    Great. Looks ready for another 12 years.

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  • 6ftbrl
    replied
    And... success!

    All is right again with the universe.

    Thank you everyone for the suggestions and the support.

    And, yes, I know my latte ‘art’ is not up to code. I'm just glad to be drinking coffee that tastes like real coffee again. 😅
    Attached Files

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  • 6ftbrl
    replied
    On the home straight.

    Her new boiler is bolted down with Hammerbarn's fanciest marine-grade stainless steel bolts. They've been lubed up with nickel anti-sieze (bought a 250 g tin and used about a quarter of a gram) and locked down with spring washers. Everything is tightened to within a tenth of a newton-metre of stripping the threads.

    Her new gasket has been moisturised by fancy Japanese silicone-grease designed for underwater camera housings.

    And her black frame has had four coats of rust-inhibiting spray-paint and is glistening like obsidian under a midnight sky.

    Now... can I remember how to put her back together? And, will she hold!?

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  • 6ftbrl
    commented on 's reply
    Wow, there is such a wealth of engineering knowledge on this forum!

    Perhaps I'll give the nylon lock nuts a miss then, but I will use the spring washers. Given that the original fittings had neither (and weren't stainless) and they lasted 12+ years, I'm reasonably confident these should give me a few more good years!

    The rust really wasn't too bad. I'm not convinced the phosphoric acid did very much at all, but grinding it off and painting it surely will. So far it's had two coats of Rust-Oleum primer and I will give it a top coat of Dulux epoxy enamel. Worst case: I have an old frame which I have been meaning to get sandblasted and powdercoated...

  • Lyrebird
    commented on 's reply
    Nylon lock nuts don't cope with heat well. Nylon loses most of its strength above its glass transition temperature which is about 50 oC for Nylon 6.6

  • amberale
    replied
    Originally posted by 6ftbrl View Post
    Thanks amberale and Dimal. I'll use nylon lock nuts underneath and spring washers on top.

    I'm treating the frame now. The rust wasn't too bad. I've filed it off and am treating it with phosphoric acid rust converter. Then I'll give it a rust-inhibiting primer and an epoxy enamel top-coat.
    I’m not sure how nylon lock nuts cope with heat, I normally use spring or lock washers in those situations(eg engines, boilers).
    I have found the rust converter with sealer works better for me.
    My worst case with just the sealer was on some galvanised stock yards I had for sale.
    I applied the converter to some light rust around welds and checked it in the morning.
    Note to self : galv and Phosphoric acid don’t mix.
    I prefer a product called Xtroll for rust conversion.
    Similar to penetrol but better.

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  • 6ftbrl
    replied
    Thanks amberale and Dimal. I'll use nylon lock nuts underneath and spring washers on top.

    I'm treating the frame now. The rust wasn't too bad. I've filed it off and am treating it with phosphoric acid rust converter. Then I'll give it a rust-inhibiting primer and an epoxy enamel top-coat.
    Attached Files

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  • Dimal
    commented on 's reply
    Actually, Shake-proof washers work a lot better in this situation, I've found...
    Or even the use of s/steel Nyloc nuts.

  • amberale
    replied
    Don’t forget spring washers on those bolts.
    Looking good.

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  • 6ftbrl
    commented on 's reply
    You're absolutely right kofekitt. It does sit on a ledge of the steel frame. I've drilled two holes in the frame, and I will bolt right through.

  • kofekitt
    commented on 's reply
    Looks good, but doesn't that lip of the boiler sit on a ledge, and those bolts/nuts may be in the way? Hope i'm wrong...

  • Dimal
    commented on 's reply
    Looking good there mate...

  • 6ftbrl
    replied
    Proof of concept seems sound. Finally starting to feel a bit more optimistic about this operation!
    Attached Files

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  • 6ftbrl
    replied
    Thanks everyone for your suggestions and encouragement.

    Unfortunately no amount of penetrant, acid, flame-throwing or elbow grease could turn the three remaining stuck screws. The galvanic corrosion seems to have all-but welded them to the brass.

    I have, however, drilled them out, albeit imperfectly. I don't have a drill press, so I centre-punched and drilled from the underside.

    I'm thinking that I can re-join the group head and boiler with longer bolts and nuts - rather than screws threaded through the group head.

    I also think I'll use fibre washers, to provide some electrical isolation between the brass and stainless steel (although noting it might be pointless, as there is still contact between the two metals at the bolt shank). And definitely some nickel anti seize.

    I'll post on update, wish me luck!
    Attached Files

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  • Lyrebird
    replied
    Deck cleaners are usually around 20% oxalic. You could try applying it directly to the bolts and see how it goes.

    BTW if you wipe over the brass with grease or vaseline before you start, the oxalic won't be able to reach the brass surface so it won't dezincify it.

    Leave a comment:

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