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Sunbeam 6910 not powering on

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  • Xanthine
    replied
    Looks like you have found the problem. This is the first time I have come across an element failure! If you keep watch on Gumtree you can often pick up a 6910 in a non-working condition for around $30 or they are sometimes given away. Even if it is listed as "steam not working" the problem is usually a blocked thermoblock or steam wand or a blown thermofuse and the thermoblock is still useable. You also get spare parts to keep your machine going and a group handle which can be made 'naked'.
    Where are you located - PM me if you don't want to put it on here.

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  • Bohdi
    replied
    I’ve seen a replacement on eBay, $69…probably easier to buy a secondhand one

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  • Bohdi
    replied
    Originally posted by Xanthine View Post
    If you listen carefully for a while and the cadence is regular ( click-click ....... click-click) it is probably only one set of contacts opening and closing. If it varies over time it is probably two relays with different time cycles. Hope that explanation makes sense.
    "Yeah I don’t get any reading whatsoever when I test." What reading are you referring to here? If it is the heating element and you get 0 ohms ( sometimes "O.L") or very high resistance (K ohms or m ohms) it is likely open circuit. Make sure your meter probes are making good contact with both terminals on top of the thermoblock. My spare reads 47.4 ohms
    on the top of my thermoblock I get no reading. Making good contact.

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  • Xanthine
    replied
    If you listen carefully for a while and the cadence is regular ( click-click ....... click-click) it is probably only one set of contacts opening and closing. If it varies over time it is probably two relays with different time cycles. Hope that explanation makes sense.
    "Yeah I don’t get any reading whatsoever when I test." What reading are you referring to here? If it is the heating element and you get 0 ohms ( sometimes "O.L") or very high resistance (K ohms or m ohms) it is likely open circuit. Make sure your meter probes are making good contact with both terminals on top of the thermoblock. My spare reads 47.4 ohms

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  • Bohdi
    replied
    Yeah I can hear a click, then a spring sound after. But sounds like it’s coming from the same place

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  • Bohdi
    replied
    Originally posted by Xanthine View Post

    Yes that's correct. No need to disconnect them when you measure.
    The clicking you can hear is the relay(s) switching. There are 2 relays on the control board - 1 for each heating element , steam & brew thermoblocks. Does it sound like 2 or just one? You may be able to distinguish by the clicking pattern.
    Thanks so much by the way for the trouble shooting!!

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  • Bohdi
    replied
    Yeah I don’t get any reading whatsoever when I test.
    I’d say it’s cactus.
    I think I can only hear one. I’ll double check!

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  • Xanthine
    replied
    Originally posted by Bohdi View Post

    Approx 50 ohms? Is that where the two blue braided wires go to?


    Yes that's correct. No need to disconnect them when you measure.
    The clicking you can hear is the relay(s) switching. There are 2 relays on the control board - 1 for each heating element , steam & brew thermoblocks. Does it sound like 2 or just one? You may be able to distinguish by the clicking pattern.

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  • Bohdi
    replied
    Originally posted by Xanthine View Post
    OK, other possibilities are (in order of decreasing likelihood) - thermal switch (thermostat) 0 ohms, heating element - app 50 ohms, control board/relay/thermistor - not easily checked.
    checked the thermostat, that’s 0 ohms. The top of the heating element itself? Approx 50 ohms? Is that where the two blue braided wires go to?

    when I plug it in without the sides off, (not touching anything internally of course) I can hear a switch turning on and off constantly and the green light is constantly flashing.

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  • Bohdi
    replied
    Ok, rad. Is the thermal switch located on the opposite side of the thermal fuse?
    I’ll check these

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  • Xanthine
    replied
    OK, other possibilities are (in order of decreasing likelihood) - thermal switch (thermostat) 0 ohms, heating element - app 50 ohms, control board/relay/thermistor - not easily checked.

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  • Bohdi
    replied
    Actually I tested either side of the thermal fuse and it read a few numbers but counted down to zero on a multimeter. May not be that problem?

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  • Bohdi
    replied
    Awesome. I’ve had a look. Seems pretty straightforward.
    canyoupoint me in the direction of a replacement? Or is it a takeout to jaycar and match it sort of thing?

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  • Xanthine
    replied
    It's in a channel on the side of the steam thermoblock and is encased in a white slip-on teflon sleeve with a small metal plate and single screw holding it. I would suggest that if you are not confident working with mains wiring that you get it repaired professionally, as all of the wiring inside the machine should be considered 'live' if it is plugged in, even if it is not switched on. There are numerous posts in this section regarding this fairly common fault.

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  • Bohdi
    replied
    Where would that be located may I ask? On the board or inline to the thermoblock? Any help greatly appreciated!!

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