Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Sunbeam 6910 not powering on

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Sunbeam 6910 not powering on

    Hi there!
    I’ve been scouring the net for an answer to this as it seems my problem is somewhat unique.

    had a 6910 for 10 years, won it in a Gloria jeans competition!! Amazing thing has probably pulled 8000plus shots.

    However the other day, the steam wand decided to crap itself. Only ever used rainwater, and the wand started to just pump out hot water and not steam. It has worked perfectly up until now, I’ve always keep the nozzle clean, blasted it out so not the issue. Then the next time I went to use it it simply will not power up. Sits on standby mode forever. I opened it up and checked the steam pump, seems to be ok (tested using a volt/ohm meter) then performed a factory reset.
    nada.

    any help greatly appreciated. The unit doesn’t owe me anything as you can gather, but if it’s a simple fix I’d be stoked to keep it going!!

    thanks in advance

  • #2
    Sounds like the steam thermoblock thermal fuse may have gone. Should read close to 0 ohms with a multi-meter. Fairly easily replaced but connections need to be crimped and not soldered and insulating sleeve must be carefully refitted.

    Comment


    • #3
      Where would that be located may I ask? On the board or inline to the thermoblock? Any help greatly appreciated!!

      Comment


      • #4
        It's in a channel on the side of the steam thermoblock and is encased in a white slip-on teflon sleeve with a small metal plate and single screw holding it. I would suggest that if you are not confident working with mains wiring that you get it repaired professionally, as all of the wiring inside the machine should be considered 'live' if it is plugged in, even if it is not switched on. There are numerous posts in this section regarding this fairly common fault.

        Comment


        • #5
          Awesome. I’ve had a look. Seems pretty straightforward.
          canyoupoint me in the direction of a replacement? Or is it a takeout to jaycar and match it sort of thing?

          Comment


          • #6
            Actually I tested either side of the thermal fuse and it read a few numbers but counted down to zero on a multimeter. May not be that problem?

            Comment


            • #7
              OK, other possibilities are (in order of decreasing likelihood) - thermal switch (thermostat) 0 ohms, heating element - app 50 ohms, control board/relay/thermistor - not easily checked.

              Comment


              • #8
                Ok, rad. Is the thermal switch located on the opposite side of the thermal fuse?
                I’ll check these

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Xanthine View Post
                  OK, other possibilities are (in order of decreasing likelihood) - thermal switch (thermostat) 0 ohms, heating element - app 50 ohms, control board/relay/thermistor - not easily checked.
                  checked the thermostat, that’s 0 ohms. The top of the heating element itself? Approx 50 ohms? Is that where the two blue braided wires go to?

                  when I plug it in without the sides off, (not touching anything internally of course) I can hear a switch turning on and off constantly and the green light is constantly flashing.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Bohdi View Post

                    Approx 50 ohms? Is that where the two blue braided wires go to?


                    Yes that's correct. No need to disconnect them when you measure.
                    The clicking you can hear is the relay(s) switching. There are 2 relays on the control board - 1 for each heating element , steam & brew thermoblocks. Does it sound like 2 or just one? You may be able to distinguish by the clicking pattern.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Yeah I don’t get any reading whatsoever when I test.
                      I’d say it’s cactus.
                      I think I can only hear one. I’ll double check!

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Xanthine View Post

                        Yes that's correct. No need to disconnect them when you measure.
                        The clicking you can hear is the relay(s) switching. There are 2 relays on the control board - 1 for each heating element , steam & brew thermoblocks. Does it sound like 2 or just one? You may be able to distinguish by the clicking pattern.
                        Thanks so much by the way for the trouble shooting!!

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Yeah I can hear a click, then a spring sound after. But sounds like it’s coming from the same place

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            If you listen carefully for a while and the cadence is regular ( click-click ....... click-click) it is probably only one set of contacts opening and closing. If it varies over time it is probably two relays with different time cycles. Hope that explanation makes sense.
                            "Yeah I don’t get any reading whatsoever when I test." What reading are you referring to here? If it is the heating element and you get 0 ohms ( sometimes "O.L") or very high resistance (K ohms or m ohms) it is likely open circuit. Make sure your meter probes are making good contact with both terminals on top of the thermoblock. My spare reads 47.4 ohms

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Xanthine View Post
                              If you listen carefully for a while and the cadence is regular ( click-click ....... click-click) it is probably only one set of contacts opening and closing. If it varies over time it is probably two relays with different time cycles. Hope that explanation makes sense.
                              "Yeah I don’t get any reading whatsoever when I test." What reading are you referring to here? If it is the heating element and you get 0 ohms ( sometimes "O.L") or very high resistance (K ohms or m ohms) it is likely open circuit. Make sure your meter probes are making good contact with both terminals on top of the thermoblock. My spare reads 47.4 ohms
                              on the top of my thermoblock I get no reading. Making good contact.

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X