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EM7000 Broken thermoblock fitting
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Glad to hear you eventually got it going but sorry you had so many dramas along the way. Thanks for letting us know.
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So after waiting nearly three weeks l get my PCB and find they sent me the wrong one, idiots.
tried to buy a used EM7000 for $50 and gets sold on me, really hate dealing with people on market place🤬
Then today the right PCB shows up and gets fitted. Working great then pops the hot water hose. After struggling with that we are now back in action.
Thanks to everyone for there help, cheers☕️
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There was a free one in SA back in Aug. They often get thrown out or given away when they stop working as repairs can be costly. "Buy, sell, swap" can be another source.
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Yes l am being very careful and understand the hazards of the live board. It seems a new board can be had for $60 but wouldn’t see one for a week or two. The 23v is AC.
The machine is 7 years old and been great except for a few hoses that I replaced a few years back. We are on tank water which probably helps prolong the life of the machine. Have been looking for a 2nd hand machine for parts but nothing in my area unfortunately, would be great to have a few spares. Overall I think it’s worth fixing but don’t want to invest large amounts of money otherwise I will buy a new one. The only problem is what to buy to replace it?
Really like the way this operates, quick to use and make a coffee.
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Please be extremely careful touching anything on the control board as it carries a both mains and low voltage. Personally I would not get my hands anywhere near the insides of a 'live' machine. As to voltages, 23v seems most unusual as the output of the transformer would be rectified and then regulated to 5vdc. The transformer could be outputting as much as 12vac under no load. If the 23v you are measuring is AC this could be leakage from the mains supply. It certainly seems as if the board is kaput. I think a replacement could be fairly expensive and would only be worthwhile if the rest of the machine is in very good condition. You could possibly look for a non-working machine going cheap online and build up a good one from the parts. Usually they get sold off cheaply when the steam thermoblock scales up and blocks, or one of the solenoids fails. The advantage of buying a 'broken' machine for parts is that you can also score a spare portafilter to 'go naked'.
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Ok, so no relays clicking so checked board voltage and getting 23 volts. The PCB transformer is a 230v to 9v.
possibly a faulty transformer? Would this give me the issues I’m seeing causing no heating.
also where is the recommended supplier to source a new PCB.
ThanksLast edited by frankenyota; 18 October 2021, 11:32 AM.
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Tried the PCB after a clean, still the same. Everything seems to be pointing to a replacement board. Tried listening and feeling the relays for the heating elements to operate but there’s nothing. Not sure if you could hear them in normal operation or not.
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Yes control board / PCB, same thing. If the coil for the relay isn't staying on and the contacts aren't closing that'll be why you don't have any heat.
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Thanks level3ninja for the reply, l assume the control board is part of the PCB?
Just seems odd that there is no heating or pressure, l suspected to find a blown fuse but everything checks out with my limited knowledge of electronics.
Xanthine l will give the board a clean with Contact cleaner and scrub with a toothbrush. Will let in dry out in the sun, thanks
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You could try cleaning up the board with a pc board cleaning spray or IPA (isopropyl alcohol) but not WD40 or similar sprays. Even scrubbing it with an old toothbrush may be necessary. Just make sure it is thoroughly dry before powering it up again - either leave it in a warm car for several hours or use a hair dryer on it.
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The relay coils are driven by the control board, if they stay on properly when given an outside power source it's the control board that's the problem. noidle22 might know what part or if it can be fixed / is worth fixing
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Used a 12 volt feed to switch the relays while still in the board and confirmed all switched and work fine.
Checked the resistance of the thermal fuses, good. Checked the resistance of the heating element, 67 ohms. It seems like the cool for the relief is switching on and off quickly or could it be not shutting off correctly and keeps trying close but can’t?
still no heating thou? What else can I check, thermal sensors
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Electronics is not my strong point but my son had a laptop that had water damage and this looks similar.
Not sure whether to take a punt and get a new PCB or invest the money into a new machine.
Anyone who has a EM7000 would you fix it or buy something else and what would you buy?
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Hmm, no help here and I’m no electronics man but that does look iffy…..
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