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Originally posted by 322B32420 link=1190811122/19#19 date=1289119485
it wouldnt be outrageously difficult to build a boiler from stainless 316 and find a qualified welder to Tig it all together ( not inexpensive though , but (( and I hesitate to say this , it should be bombproof , and last a very long time ))
The only downside of going in this direction is that s/s under high temperature and positive pressure will be susceptible to Pinhole Pitting from the inside of the Boiler if proper precautions arent taken to remove all traces of Chlorine compounds from the feed water. You can do a search via Google to read about the technicalities involved but it pays to make decisions from an informed position....
Hi Snob-experimentalists ,
I can help with a few of the questions and throw up a few more .
Firstly the volumetric machines almost always have a controller by Gicar or Giemme , some of these will run up to 3 or 4 groups , and sometimes LCD displays , but are the same controller with only the required touchpads and volumetric sensors and 3 way valves plugged in - so a 3 group machine controller (of the common type) will happily run a single group machine with 1 touchpad , pump switching and boiler autofill from the level probe and read 1 volumetric sensor.
Renekas , La Cimbalis and Rancilios have custom electronics - and might be difficult or impossible to easily press into service .
Boilers ..... Synesso , La Marzocco and others are now using stainless steel boilers , and are Tig welded - like all of the pressure vessels in the food industry ( actually like everything in the food industry - from utensils to baking trays ) so it wouldnt be outrageously difficult to build a boiler from stainless 316 and find a qualified welder to Tig it all together ( not inexpensive though , but (( and I hesitate to say this , it should be bombproof , and last a very long time ))
HAVING SAID THAT .. SAFETY IS THE PRIME CONCERN ALWAYS ( Ill stop shouting now ) and its not a job to be tackled lightly - but new safety valves are a must ( and carry their own little certificate ) and the electrical side of things has the same responsibilities .
but for the engineers amongst us ...
ciao, pip.
I could fix it for ya for the pre mentioned couple of slabs of beer,
This is a machine i have fixedhttp://coffeesnobs.com.au/YaBB.pl?num=1287657563 the boiler on.
As mentioned above the only way it can be repaired is by Oxy/Acetylene or Oxy/LPG with silver solder, and the boiler needs to be striped down of all components.
Anyhoo im in Sydney (Katoomba, Blue Mountains)
Originally posted by 46434C4717161113220 link=1190811122/15#15 date=1288952189
The electronic controller is the hard bit. I still have to think about that a bit, but the unit I have runs off two electronic control units runnings in parrallel. Not sure if that means they work independantly or not, but it would be a little stupid if they do not.
i have a machine which I am going to change from automatic. i will setup without control box, and take out flowmeter as well. then just use the water level gauge to fill as required.
Originally posted by 73706262667068110 link=1190811122/13#13 date=1288911613
You would need to get another element. The safety valve on boilers are generally in the middle. The electronic controller may only suit a two group...... etc
The two group I got was cheap as the element was gone. Also, in pretty average repair. So I am thinking at least one of the Gicars, the Control Panels, the solenoids.... should be OK.
I think the Safety is no problem, because you can just go for a three-way connection somewhere and run the safety valve, pressure stat off that.
The electronic controller is the hard bit. I still have to think about that a bit, but the unit I have runs off two electronic control units runnings in parrallel. Not sure if that means they work independantly or not, but it would be a little stupid if they do not.
Originally posted by 70727E7676787F62110 link=1190811122/12#12 date=1288910335
Why?
I have the parts, so I thought it would be fun. Also, I really dont want a two group at home at all.
Originally posted by 73706262667068110 link=1190811122/13#13 date=1288911613
I would be under the assumption that this would cost more than buying a one group
Hope not, because it will not go ahead. Assuming I have all the parts, then it just comes down to my time and the boiler fix.
I am considering this at the moment. I have an old 2 group astoria (boiler approx 9L).
My thought process is as follows:
1) if I can convert it into a one group and use any of the parts from the second group as spares or to fix the first it might prove useful and save some money on parts
2) I feel a two group is overkill for my home needs (WAF)
3) the cost to run such a big boiler and need for a 15/20amp power point at home will be difficult to acheive. Replacing the element with the smaller version would make the electrical side of it easier.
Originally posted by 7C7E727A7A74736E1D0 link=1190811122/12#12 date=1288910335
Originally posted by 3D38373C6C6D6A68590 link=1190811122/11#11 date=1288906012
I have a slightly different request along the same lines.
I have a 2 group machine that I would like to cut down to a 1 group. I plane to cannabalise parts from the 2 group, make a new chasis and build a new 1 group machine. Can anyonw point me in the direction of a good boilermaker in Sydney area that would be able to chop and re-weld the 8lt boiler down to 3-4lt?
Why?
I am thinking the same thing.
You would need to get another element. The safety valve on boilers are generally in the middle. The electronic controller may only suit a two group...... etc
I would be under the assumption that this would cost more than buying a one group.
I am curious, please enlighten! I see 2 groups go for cheap and singles go for a lot. If you have success please post.
Originally posted by 3D38373C6C6D6A68590 link=1190811122/11#11 date=1288906012
I have a slightly different request along the same lines.
I have a 2 group machine that I would like to cut down to a 1 group. I plane to cannabalise parts from the 2 group, make a new chasis and build a new 1 group machine. Can anyonw point me in the direction of a good boilermaker in Sydney area that would be able to chop and re-weld the 8lt boiler down to 3-4lt?
I have a slightly different request along the same lines.
I have a 2 group machine that I would like to cut down to a 1 group. I plane to cannabalise parts from the 2 group, make a new chasis and build a new 1 group machine. Can anyonw point me in the direction of a good boilermaker in Sydney area that would be able to chop and re-weld the 8lt boiler down to 3-4lt?
As Martybean said, if you are handy with an oxy set head on down to BOC and get some 245 silver solder and a pot of Silver Soldering flux, clean it all up with a wire brush - as my ol jewellery lecturer said - plenty flux slow tip and let the flux do the chemical cleaning. When it goes clear touch the stick to the joint and it should melt instantly and flow smoothly around the joint. Easy Peasy - however if you are hamfisted with a torch pay someone else to do it for you.
Hi Luke i am a boilermaker and it looks like you have broken a piece off buts picture is unclear .Looks like brass.If it is it will need to be soldered on with a good silver solder preferably one that is siuted to food grade use because some solders contain lead and cadmium .You will need to use a brazing tip on an oxy set and the job must be very clean.Take it too your local engineering shop they should fix it for a slab or two.
Thanks for everyones advice. I have sent a private message to you, Wushoes.
In the meantime I have bought a French press. I got the one that is "developed using the latest technology with ... materials that are suitable for foods."
As reubster said above.... a 25W iron wont make it..... nor will any electric iron (even a 250W jobbie) unless using soft solder which contains lead and is poisonous....
Cadmium free silver solder melts at a far higher temperature and requires at least the heat from a butane torch to melt it (and a bit of experience if you are going to do the job correctly).
IME a 25watt iron struggles with any basic electronic task other than soldering a resistor to a PCB.
The thermal mass of say a standard 1/4" jack will give it grief, I doubt very much whether it could supply the energy to bring a boiler up to solder melt temperature.
Not saying you cant do the job, just that your iron is probably way out of this league.
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