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Calling all BFC/Diadema owners - Past, Present and Future

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  • Hi, in the newest to this thread. I have a hx junior.. it has some problems before I can plug it in, so im being patient.

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    • Originally posted by IrisGanache View Post
      All done.
      Let me know where you want it sent to.
      I've sent you a PM

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      • Originally posted by Jackster View Post
        Hi, in the newest to this thread. I have a hx junior.. it has some problems before I can plug it in, so im being patient.
        Is this the machine you have mate?

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        Mal.

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        • No Mal, same body as the db, but in hx.in saying that, I haven't taken the covers off to have a look. It was in the for sale section here a few weeks ago.
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          • Ah Ok, gotcha...

            When you referred to the straight "Junior" model above I thought I must have had my wires crossed.
            Yep, the Junior Extra is definitely a step up from the vanilla Junior...

            Mal.

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            • Got started on the first one of my two Unico Splendour's time bring it back to life. I've removed the boiler and pipework for descaling before pictures below.
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              I left it soak for most of the day it's looking much better now. It's going to need all of the normal seals a new antivac and I think I'll replace the safety valve just to be on the safe side. I'll get some after photos as I go.

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              • While I've been looking for some used parts for these machines with no luck I've found a local business that laser cuts stainless steel I've got to go in on Thursday and pick up the 2 parts they have made, I've been working on a pattern for the drip tray so I can take in with me. This is the result from the 3D Printer. Big thank you to IrisGanache for supplying the scan that helped with this.
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                • Ensure you descale the hx also. I have had problems with machines and scaled hx. I laid boiler on its side, and filled hx with descaler and let soak. Hoping yours is easier with boiler removed from machine!
                  Did you have gigleur in top hx pipe at boiler? Maybe think about putting one in, mine was a plate of plastic with a small hole in..

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                  • Originally posted by Hoggy42 View Post
                    While I've been looking for some used parts for these machines with no luck I've found a local business that laser cuts stainless steel I've got to go in on Thursday and pick up the 2 parts they have made, I've been working on a pattern for the drip tray so I can take in with me. This is the result from the 3D Printer. Big thank you to IrisGanache for supplying the scan that helped with this.
                    [ATTACH=CONFIG]22965[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]22966[/ATTACH]



                    You're welcome.

                    That is brilliant. I'm glad it is all coming together for you.

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                    • Originally posted by Jackster View Post
                      Ensure you descale the hx also. I have had problems with machines and scaled hx. I laid boiler on its side, and filled hx with descaler and let soak. Hoping yours is easier with boiler removed from machine!
                      Did you have gigleur in top hx pipe at boiler? Maybe think about putting one in, mine was a plate of plastic with a small hole in..
                      I've had that boiler sitting in descale solution for the best part of a day completely submerged it looks a lot better however once it has dried off the remaining scale has turned bright white and is flaking off so I've bought some citric and will do it and all of the pipes again. It doesn't have the gigleur fitted but I have put one in my Isomac and still need to order a couple of bits my large order has come from the UK but I'll order those from Coffee parts along with some gaskets in the coming days

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                      • A small update on the machine I've had some parts show up and started getting on with it. Descaling has been tough this machine looks to have just been used till it stopped so it's been a slow process getting it clean again but I've got time.

                        Boiler back together again just need to borrow some tools from the boys at work for the element (needs a bloody bit socket)
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                        Next it's time to start on the body
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                        I've had a bit of a set back on the laser cutting front I had a couple of parts made and was due to collect them and drop in the pattern for the tray to be made. Turns out the company had gone into administration so I was lucky to get my original parts and newly made ones, but now stuck for someone to make the other parts for me.

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                        • Looking good so far!
                          Do you have the Sub-board with the relay for the element? Mine has clapped out again (I cleaned the relay contacts with a points file).
                          Anyway, I suggest fitting a SSR or something else to handle that switching

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                          • Originally posted by Jackster View Post
                            Looking good so far!
                            Do you have the Sub-board with the relay for the element? Mine has clapped out again (I cleaned the relay contacts with a points file).
                            Anyway, I suggest fitting a SSR or something else to handle that switching
                            No it doesn't just has the Gicar box, and a pressurestat same as my Isomac. Is this something it should have?

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                            • Mine has a sub board, the pressurestat triggers a relay on the sub board, that turns the element on and off. So it takes the load off the pressurestat, and the relay does all the element switching. Problem is, the contacts are carboned up from all the arcing, and so the element won't turn on.
                              I filed the points clean, but that's only a stopgap that lasted a few weeks.
                              So, the upgrade is to transistorise the switching so they can't burn out ever again.

                              In my case, a SSR is a no-brainer. In your case, you could fit one later.
                              Im not sure if your pressurestat directly controls the element, or if the pressurestat tells the gicar to control the element. Either way, a SSR will save the controlling components.
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                              • Originally posted by Jackster View Post
                                Mine has a sub board, the pressurestat triggers a relay on the sub board, that turns the element on and off. So it takes the load off the pressurestat, and the relay does all the element switching. Problem is, the contacts are carboned up from all the arcing, and so the element won't turn on.
                                It is by no means a given that that arrangement is an improvement, the reason being that the relay current is possibly not sufficient to "wet" the pressurestat contacts so the relay fails by arcing and the pressurestat fails by contact build up due to dry switching. In any case for most people it is much easier to replace the presurestat than to replace the relay: soldering is a skill improved by practice.

                                I agree that SSRs are the way to go but the Italian manufacturers don't usually do this because, well, they're Italian manufacturers*.



                                * I work in the wine industry. I thus have a lot of experience with Italian made machinery because that's what people who don't know what they are doing (or can't afford the good stuff) buy for their wineries.

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