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Faema Carisma S1?

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  • #31
    Originally posted by symphonie View Post
    I now own a used BFC Junior plus which does not need cooling flush at all even after being idle for hours. I'm guessing the reason why the S1 needs cooling flush is it's not fitted with a thermosyhon restrictor being a direct import from Italy.
    The documentation I found said the Carisma had 'thermo-siphon' group head circulation. Plus the short flush I do just before locking in the portafilter is common on any machine as I understand

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    • #32
      Hi fellow Faema Carisma S1 owners... need a little (or a lot) of help pretty please.
      I had my machine for two years now and it works great.... it started to leak over time and is now a considerable puddle everyday so I tought it was time to investigate.
      Opened it up and found the leak coming from the top of the boiler pressure relief assembly... have inquired to purchase this... meanwhile when I tried to use the machine something is wrong.

      The pump kicks in an the temperature/pressure goes up... steam wand works but when I turn on the grouphead.... nothing.

      Tried to purge to see if it is an airlock when I tipped the machine to its back to access the bottom bolts to then remove the cover.... still no luck.

      Any idea what may be causing this? As an additional observation the pump does not kick in when I operate the group head handle... hence I am wondering if the cause is something else. I do not see any loose wiring.

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      • #33
        Shame about the leak.... As to the pump not kicking in and no water when lever is operating, make sure the lever is turning it's shaft and the cam on the lever is activating the switch (arm coming out the machine).

        Also maybe this switch is malfunctioning if you think pump is ok. Sounds like you're saying it runs at times but not with lever activated.

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        • #34
          Hi Alastair thanks for the prompt response... I didn't even see this yesterday.... Yes the cam lever is activating the switch but nothing. I will run a circuit test on the poles tomorrow to see if it is the switch. I actually changed the dip switch setting also... left to right it is now off/off/off.... I wasn't able to change the temp setting previous to this.... I don't think this would have caused the current problem? Just curious does anyone else have a photograph of the circuit board of their machine? When I opened mine I found a loose wire just dangling out.... When the group head did not want to switch on I reconnected this wire.... still nothing.

          On another note the cable ties used inside the machine... is this a standard nylon66 rated to only about 100degC or is it a special high heat one? Like Teflon perhaps? Just didn't want to pull out tubing as I didn't want to remove the cable ties. Any other fault finding would be appreciated.... missing the coffee baaaad..... :-)

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          • #35
            Ran a continuity test on the group head switch today and that is all good. Would appreciate any help.

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            • #36
              Originally posted by AlishaM View Post
              Ran a continuity test on the group head switch today and that is all good. Would appreciate any help.
              Hi Alisha, this seems a hard one. Besides tracking and testing the wiring from the switch all the way to the pump, which you might have already done, I don't have any ideas at the moment sorry.

              Also, I'll dig up some photos of when I had my covers off to see what can be seen for connection wise. Will have to do this when I'm home again.

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              • #37
                Hi Alisha, have you downloaded the document I uploaded in post #2? If not, it might give you some ideas to check and some photos that might help.

                Also, have you checked the safety thermostat switch behind the drip tray? However, I presume it would stop boiler all the time not just when the group head is activated.

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                • #38
                  Hi Alastair... yes I read that very informative brochure a while back and just reread it again just in case I missed something. Unfortunately there is nothing there to fix my machine.

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                  • #39
                    Hello AlishaM When "the pump kicks in" do you mean it comes on via the auto fill when switched on? also where is the puddle forming? because the pressure relief valve is encased (as is the vacuum release valve) taking water to the tray.
                    Does any water at all come through the group head,or exhaust, once it has heated and built up line pressure when the lever is raised?
                    cafelazio.

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                    • #40
                      Hello Cafelazio thanks for replying.... Water goes through the group head and the steam wand when pump kicks in to maintain pressure/temp. The pump does not kick in when the group head lever switch is activated. I do not see any wires that are loose. I did change the dip settings to 0-0-0 to allow me to change the boilers temperature if required. I returned it back to original 1-0-0 setting but still no joy.

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                      • #41
                        Originally posted by AlishaM View Post
                        Hello Cafelazio thanks for replying.... Water goes through the group head and the steam wand when pump kicks in to maintain pressure/temp. The pump does not kick in when the group head lever switch is activated. I do not see any wires that are loose. I did change the dip settings to 0-0-0 to allow me to change the boilers temperature if required. I returned it back to original 1-0-0 setting but still no joy.
                        IT seems it has something to do with the micro switch ie not engaging or it's faulty.I thought the dip settings are for celsius/farenheit and setting parameters and adjusted by the importer.Boiler temp is only changed using front panel +,-,OK.
                        Hope you get it sorted...Cafelazio.

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                        • #42
                          How is everyone going with their Carismas? I just recently bought a 2016 model from Gumtree that had a faulty vacuum valve. I replaced the valve and cleaned up some minor corrosion from the frame and it has been running well except for the OPV. I tried adjusting the OPV to 9 bar but it is not very stable so during a backflush it jumps from 10 to 8 like it is sticking or not seating properly. I have pulled it apart and have not seen any scale or other issues with the valve but I don't think they are designed to be adjusted. I have relocated the OPV to be more accessible so I think the next move is to replace it with a third party model. Does anyone know if this is a suitable replacement Expansion Valve 1/8".

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                          • #43
                            Hello excee, my Faema Carisma is a really good machine; i stopped mucking about with cooling shots, as i realised it compromised the shot quality. RE opv i came to the same conclusion I decided not to adjust the opv. The person in WA that i purchased it from told me it had been set up and bench tested; it pulls great shots and temp on it is very stable; i realised. How are you taking the grouphead/portafilter pressure readings ? I think the machine gauge is just reference point as it is connected at the pump so would differ from the portafilter.
                            -lazio.

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                            • #44
                              Originally posted by excee View Post
                              How is everyone going with their Carismas? I just recently bought a 2016 model from Gumtree that had a faulty vacuum valve. I replaced the valve and cleaned up some minor corrosion from the frame and it has been running well except for the OPV. I tried adjusting the OPV to 9 bar but it is not very stable so during a backflush it jumps from 10 to 8 like it is sticking or not seating properly. I have pulled it apart and have not seen any scale or other issues with the valve but I don't think they are designed to be adjusted. I have relocated the OPV to be more accessible so I think the next move is to replace it with a third party model. Does anyone know if this is a suitable replacement Expansion Valve 1/8".
                              Check the size first, chances are you might not be able to fit it in due to the limited space.

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                              • #45
                                Originally posted by symphonie View Post
                                Check the size first, chances are you might not be able to fit it in due to the limited space.
                                I don't think the size will be a problem. The thread is definitely 1/8" bsp and I have relocated the OPV so that the length won't be an issue.
                                The old OPV location was terrible but understandable given it isn't adjustable. I swapped the supply from the pump with the OPV and added an elbow so now the OPV sticks straight up and can easily be adjusted without dismantling anything.

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