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Powder coating every day of the week and 7 times on Sunday. But that's with zero experience with this sort of thing re coffee machines...
In fact, I'm looking to stealth black our GS3, and was wondering if powder coating would create any issues - so if you don't mind me tagging, my question onto yours - otherwise I'll edit it out and start a new thread later.
Z...
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The only real issue with powdercoating is that it is often a thicker film than paint, so can occasionally create issues with reassembly if parts are a tight fit.
But a powdercoated finish is way more durable than paint.
We do a lot of custom work on commercial espresso machines, and probably 70% to 80% of all the machines that arrive here new in the box get stripped down immediately and all the panels go out for powdercoating.
My recommendation if considering powdercoating is don't powdercoat drip trays or any panel you are likely to to accidentally bump the group handle against while fitting or removing it, as despite its durability the powdercoat will eventually scratch and chip.
Also don't use any really light colours (especially white) where the panel is very close to something hot, like a group head or steam tap, as it will eventually discolour and yellow due to the heat. Plus any white panel near a switch or steam knob is likely to eventually accumulate lots of minute scratches which will show up on a white panel as any dirt that accumulates in the scratches will show up clearly.
If it is a home machine with one careful user that is not rushing to pump out commercial volumes of coffee, you can probably afford to be more adventurous with finishes as the machine is likely to be cared for better and cleaned more carefully and often than a commercial machine.
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Our business uses a powder coater in Hastings who does all the prep work prior like sand blasting. He was the only one within a 25k radius who did everything. All the others did PC only and I would have to take it to a sand blaster first which creates problems with bare metal being exposed for any length of time if I couldn't get to the powder coater straight away. Having said that my BIL is a spray painter and he did a Cremina for me which came up a treat but generally I recommend powder coating, especially for frames.
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My vote would be for painting. After 2 machines with powder coated frames that have rusted in the seams and around the welds (Rancilio and Vibiemme), I would be looking at painting. Easy to repair, easier to coat in hard to reach places like seams and probably cheaper if you can do it yourself. Preparation is the key and maybe use a rust neutraliser before priming and painting. May not be as durable on exterior surfaces as powder coating but I'd prefer things not to rust in the seams and welds.
I had a look at doing my Vibiemme and found a Paint Stripping business here in Melbourne to remove the old powder coating and rust - Services
When I rang a while back, he said they do both wood and metal and he would do my Espresso machine frame.Last edited by CafeLotta; 8 December 2018, 02:43 PM.
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I agree with caffelotta, it’s all in the preparation. You can get a real nice finish with paint if done properly. The Durability of PC is obviously better but you’re probably not going to be banging tools at it. In regards to rust prevention, I don’t believe it’s any better than paint and again all comes down to preparation. For stripping paint or Powder coating, you can get sanding disc wheels for an angle grinder in various coarseness that work well.
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Neither method is better or worse. The key is not what you choose to do, but the quality of that method. My Dad made paint for over 60 years, 50 of which was in his own business that I also worked in for close to 10 years. There were plenty of times we had people come in to get some paint after they’d tried to powder coat something and the coating had failed. Not all power coating is created equal and the same goes for paint.
I’ve sprayed a few coffee machines that I’ve refurbished just using pressure pack cans, but making sure preparation was 100% and I used lots of light coats - up to 10 coats in some cases. This gives a good quality finish that looks better and is more durable than an average powder coat. So whatever you choose make sure that the prep is done properly and the products used and application are high quality. Make sure the person doing the job knows that it will be exposed to a decent amount of heat and that there could be a bit of water around at times as well.
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I guess the question then might be, do it myself or pay someone for a professional result. I tried spraypainting a frame for a bz35, and it didn't turn out very smoothly, probably mostly because I've a spray paint novice, and my rust removal didn't leave a smooth surface to start with. What's the best way to get a smooth surface before painting?
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Wholeheartedly agree. There are some great epoxy/polyurethane finishes around these days that when applied properly are capable of producing outstanding results.Originally posted by LeroyC View PostNeither method is better or worse. The key is not what you choose to do, but the quality of that method.
Ditto...Originally posted by LeroyC View Postmaking sure preparation was 100% and I used lots of light coats - up to 10 coats in some cases
The only cost is a bit of time and maybe a bit of extra elbow grease if sanding gently between coats.
Mal.
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Zee, i powder coated my gs3 in matte black and would highly recommend it. Its been so easy to keep clean, is very durable and always seems to look clean unlike the standard s/s finish.Originally posted by Zee View PostPowder coating every day of the week and 7 times on Sunday. But that's with zero experience with this sort of thing re coffee machines...
In fact, I'm looking to stealth black our GS3, and was wondering if powder coating would create any issues - so if you don't mind me tagging, my question onto yours - otherwise I'll edit it out and start a new thread later.
Z...
So i would highly recommend it
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Here's another option:Originally posted by Zee View PostIn fact, I'm looking to stealth black our GS3,

Carbon
I did this as a joke: To me the bling of the gold plated E61 group is a bit much so I decided to take it competely over the top by covering the front panel in carbon fibre. Not exactly stealth, but it is black.Last edited by Lyrebird; 9 December 2018, 07:15 PM.
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I don't know.
I bought this machine from a fellow CSer as a donor body for my variable speed experiments*, I was surprised to find the group was gold plated.
It's an Izzo Alex Hx from 2001, I don't think the gold group was standard (based on pics I've seen of other Izzo Alex machines from around then). The gold plating is very well done so it may have been a factory option.
I got it cheap partially because it had lost the fancy curved side panels that were a big part of this machine's design. I have plans.....
* Here's a clue: check the pump motor visible at the back of the machine in the pic.Last edited by Lyrebird; 9 December 2018, 08:29 PM.
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