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  • #16
    If you powder coat make sure you ask them how cured it is when given to you as finished. Many powder coater's only do a partial cure and the finish is then susceptible to damage potentially for months depending on how far the coater cured it.


    Java "Coat what?" phile
    Toys! I must have new toys!!!

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    • #17
      For an object the size of a coffee machine chassis it's pretty easy to do a post cure. 180 oC for 20 - 30 minutes is all you need.

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      • #18
        Originally posted by iampivot View Post
        I guess the question then might be, do it myself or pay someone for a professional result. I tried spraypainting a frame for a bz35, and it didn't turn out very smoothly, probably mostly because I've a spray paint novice, and my rust removal didn't leave a smooth surface to start with. What's the best way to get a smooth surface before painting?

        [ATTACH=CONFIG]20753[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]20754[/ATTACH]
        It's all do to with the preparation, the painting or coating is the easy part. I can't stress this enough. As part of removing the rust, it will obviously leave some pitting. Even if powder coating, these imperfections will still be visible unless the prep was done to deal with this so lets get back to the prep. To get a smooth surface, those pits need to be filled, an effective way to do it is with automotive spray putty (it comes in a spray can too). Spray a few light coats of spray putty to build a nice thick coat, then sand back with a sanding block until the spray putty is sanded off the already smooth metal but remains in the pitts. You may need to do this several times depending on the depth of the pitts to get an even smooth surface. The good thing is that spray putty is easy to sand and dries reasonably quick. Once you're happy with the smoothness, give the whole thing a few light coats of primer (grey primer works well if finishing in black). The key with any spraying is light coats, don't be tempted to save time by trying to get away with less coats by applying thick coats, it's not not worth it as you won't be happy and end up sanding back and doing it again wasting more time. Light sanding between coats is also very effective to remove and little paint bumps or dust, this can be wet sanded too for a fine finish towards the later coats.
        For example,
        2 - 3 light coats of spray putty
        sand back with 200 - 400 grit sandpaper
        another light coat or so of spray putty if needed and sand back as above
        2 - 3 light coats of primer
        lightly wet sand with 600 - 800 grit
        another light coat of primer
        lightly wet sand with 800 - 1000 grit (the object should look and feel perfectly smooth, if not, may need to fill any dimples and or pitts with spray putty and repeat some of the earlier steps)
        2 - 3 light coats of colour, (blacks are easy to paint, especially matt and satin finishes)
        lightly wet sand with 1000 - 1200 grit
        final light coat of colour
        let it cure properly before working with it (putting it in the sun works well)
        Good luck, let us know how you get on. Take a look at the little machine I restored a while back in this THREAD
        Last edited by fg1972; 10 December 2018, 08:32 AM. Reason: link

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        • #19
          Originally posted by fg1972 View Post
          Take a look at the little machine I restored a while back in this THREAD
          Wow. Inspiring. Love it when old stuff gets a new lease of life

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          • #20
            Ok, I'll try some putty and primer. I initially was a bit concerned about special paint requirements due to the higher temperatures inside the machine, but the parts of the frame that are exposed doesn't get that hot.

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