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  • iampivot
    replied
    Ok, I'll try some putty and primer. I initially was a bit concerned about special paint requirements due to the higher temperatures inside the machine, but the parts of the frame that are exposed doesn't get that hot.

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  • coolie21
    replied
    Originally posted by fg1972 View Post
    Take a look at the little machine I restored a while back in this THREAD
    Wow. Inspiring. Love it when old stuff gets a new lease of life

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  • fg1972
    replied
    Originally posted by iampivot View Post
    I guess the question then might be, do it myself or pay someone for a professional result. I tried spraypainting a frame for a bz35, and it didn't turn out very smoothly, probably mostly because I've a spray paint novice, and my rust removal didn't leave a smooth surface to start with. What's the best way to get a smooth surface before painting?

    [ATTACH=CONFIG]20753[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]20754[/ATTACH]
    It's all do to with the preparation, the painting or coating is the easy part. I can't stress this enough. As part of removing the rust, it will obviously leave some pitting. Even if powder coating, these imperfections will still be visible unless the prep was done to deal with this so lets get back to the prep. To get a smooth surface, those pits need to be filled, an effective way to do it is with automotive spray putty (it comes in a spray can too). Spray a few light coats of spray putty to build a nice thick coat, then sand back with a sanding block until the spray putty is sanded off the already smooth metal but remains in the pitts. You may need to do this several times depending on the depth of the pitts to get an even smooth surface. The good thing is that spray putty is easy to sand and dries reasonably quick. Once you're happy with the smoothness, give the whole thing a few light coats of primer (grey primer works well if finishing in black). The key with any spraying is light coats, don't be tempted to save time by trying to get away with less coats by applying thick coats, it's not not worth it as you won't be happy and end up sanding back and doing it again wasting more time. Light sanding between coats is also very effective to remove and little paint bumps or dust, this can be wet sanded too for a fine finish towards the later coats.
    For example,
    2 - 3 light coats of spray putty
    sand back with 200 - 400 grit sandpaper
    another light coat or so of spray putty if needed and sand back as above
    2 - 3 light coats of primer
    lightly wet sand with 600 - 800 grit
    another light coat of primer
    lightly wet sand with 800 - 1000 grit (the object should look and feel perfectly smooth, if not, may need to fill any dimples and or pitts with spray putty and repeat some of the earlier steps)
    2 - 3 light coats of colour, (blacks are easy to paint, especially matt and satin finishes)
    lightly wet sand with 1000 - 1200 grit
    final light coat of colour
    let it cure properly before working with it (putting it in the sun works well)
    Good luck, let us know how you get on. Take a look at the little machine I restored a while back in this THREAD
    Last edited by fg1972; 10 December 2018, 08:32 AM. Reason: link

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  • Lyrebird
    replied
    For an object the size of a coffee machine chassis it's pretty easy to do a post cure. 180 oC for 20 - 30 minutes is all you need.

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  • Javaphile
    replied
    If you powder coat make sure you ask them how cured it is when given to you as finished. Many powder coater's only do a partial cure and the finish is then susceptible to damage potentially for months depending on how far the coater cured it.


    Java "Coat what?" phile

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  • Lyrebird
    replied
    I don't know.

    I bought this machine from a fellow CSer as a donor body for my variable speed experiments*, I was surprised to find the group was gold plated.

    It's an Izzo Alex Hx from 2001, I don't think the gold group was standard (based on pics I've seen of other Izzo Alex machines from around then). The gold plating is very well done so it may have been a factory option.

    I got it cheap partially because it had lost the fancy curved side panels that were a big part of this machine's design. I have plans.....





    * Here's a clue: check the pump motor visible at the back of the machine in the pic.
    Last edited by Lyrebird; 9 December 2018, 08:29 PM.

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  • 338
    replied
    Lyrebird, gold E61 groupheads, off the shelf item? Or.....

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  • Lyrebird
    replied
    Originally posted by Zee View Post
    In fact, I'm looking to stealth black our GS3,
    Here's another option:


    Carbon

    I did this as a joke: To me the bling of the gold plated E61 group is a bit much so I decided to take it competely over the top by covering the front panel in carbon fibre. Not exactly stealth, but it is black.
    Last edited by Lyrebird; 9 December 2018, 07:15 PM.

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  • JohnA
    replied
    Originally posted by Zee View Post
    Powder coating every day of the week and 7 times on Sunday. But that's with zero experience with this sort of thing re coffee machines...

    In fact, I'm looking to stealth black our GS3, and was wondering if powder coating would create any issues - so if you don't mind me tagging, my question onto yours - otherwise I'll edit it out and start a new thread later.

    Z...
    Zee, i powder coated my gs3 in matte black and would highly recommend it. Its been so easy to keep clean, is very durable and always seems to look clean unlike the standard s/s finish.
    So i would highly recommend it

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  • Dimal
    replied
    Originally posted by LeroyC View Post
    Neither method is better or worse. The key is not what you choose to do, but the quality of that method.
    Wholeheartedly agree. There are some great epoxy/polyurethane finishes around these days that when applied properly are capable of producing outstanding results.

    Originally posted by LeroyC View Post
    making sure preparation was 100% and I used lots of light coats - up to 10 coats in some cases
    Ditto...
    The only cost is a bit of time and maybe a bit of extra elbow grease if sanding gently between coats.

    Mal.

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  • iampivot
    replied
    I guess the question then might be, do it myself or pay someone for a professional result. I tried spraypainting a frame for a bz35, and it didn't turn out very smoothly, probably mostly because I've a spray paint novice, and my rust removal didn't leave a smooth surface to start with. What's the best way to get a smooth surface before painting?

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  • LeroyC
    replied
    Neither method is better or worse. The key is not what you choose to do, but the quality of that method. My Dad made paint for over 60 years, 50 of which was in his own business that I also worked in for close to 10 years. There were plenty of times we had people come in to get some paint after they’d tried to powder coat something and the coating had failed. Not all power coating is created equal and the same goes for paint.
    I’ve sprayed a few coffee machines that I’ve refurbished just using pressure pack cans, but making sure preparation was 100% and I used lots of light coats - up to 10 coats in some cases. This gives a good quality finish that looks better and is more durable than an average powder coat. So whatever you choose make sure that the prep is done properly and the products used and application are high quality. Make sure the person doing the job knows that it will be exposed to a decent amount of heat and that there could be a bit of water around at times as well.

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  • fg1972
    replied
    I agree with caffelotta, it’s all in the preparation. You can get a real nice finish with paint if done properly. The Durability of PC is obviously better but you’re probably not going to be banging tools at it. In regards to rust prevention, I don’t believe it’s any better than paint and again all comes down to preparation. For stripping paint or Powder coating, you can get sanding disc wheels for an angle grinder in various coarseness that work well.

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  • CafeLotta
    replied
    My vote would be for painting. After 2 machines with powder coated frames that have rusted in the seams and around the welds (Rancilio and Vibiemme), I would be looking at painting. Easy to repair, easier to coat in hard to reach places like seams and probably cheaper if you can do it yourself. Preparation is the key and maybe use a rust neutraliser before priming and painting. May not be as durable on exterior surfaces as powder coating but I'd prefer things not to rust in the seams and welds.

    I had a look at doing my Vibiemme and found a Paint Stripping business here in Melbourne to remove the old powder coating and rust - Services
    When I rang a while back, he said they do both wood and metal and he would do my Espresso machine frame.
    Last edited by CafeLotta; 8 December 2018, 02:43 PM.

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  • JMcCee
    replied
    Our business uses a powder coater in Hastings who does all the prep work prior like sand blasting. He was the only one within a 25k radius who did everything. All the others did PC only and I would have to take it to a sand blaster first which creates problems with bare metal being exposed for any length of time if I couldn't get to the powder coater straight away. Having said that my BIL is a spray painter and he did a Cremina for me which came up a treat but generally I recommend powder coating, especially for frames.

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