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Another Boema Restoration Thread
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That’s an awesome idea LeroyC, I know what I am modding tonight when I get home!
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I actually extended that through the hole in the drip tray using clear tube (Teflon or PTFE pinched from Gaggia Classic parts) as I found it to still be a bit messy.Originally posted by dungee View PostFound where the mystery part goes in my Boema, it's a baffle on the drain for the 3 way solenoid to prevent the water shooting out and splashing when I stop the shot. Thanks to the good people at Boema for the info.
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Cool, good job!
The sealed end and holes in the side had me thinking restrictor/baffle.
Put the scones on, we will all pop over for coffee
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Found where the mystery part goes in my Boema, it's a baffle on the drain for the 3 way solenoid to prevent the water shooting out and splashing when I stop the shot. Thanks to the good people at Boema for the info.Originally posted by Dimal View PostYep, looks like a partly stripped down Emergency Pressure Release Valve...
Mal.
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CLR is made with a couple of low molecular weight organic acids and some detergents. Nothing in it will harm brass any more or less than other things that contain low molecular weight organic acids such as citric and vinegar. It is however a very expensive way of buying them.Originally posted by solace View Post
I don’t know scientifically if CLR is any good for copper/brass
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When I lwas ooking through older posts I noted Andy used CLR for an initial clean on his Bomea restore so it’s not unheard of.
I don’t know scientifically if CLR is any good for copper/brass so that might be why people stick clear as a dedicated descale agent?
I have a preference for things that are friendly for the environment (and my insides) hence I went the path of citric acid and vinegar.
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This won't be popular I am sure as I have read other threads saying people wouldnt touch it but I have used CLR and it worked a treat. It is designed to be used in kettles and dishwashers so why not coffee machines.
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Probably, but please don’t. Is this a ‘thing’? Yes, and no. I’m guessing that it’s happening due to wear inside the grouphead and there’s probably not a lot you can do about it. To be honest I don’t think it’s a huge problem. The only is that coffee grounds and water will be getting in behind the gasket so each time you backflush just pull the gasket out and give everything a clean before putting it back together.Originally posted by solace View PostOne small issue, the group seal seems to come loose after using the blind filter. I have the conical type from Boema. Is this a ‘thing’ for these machines and/or is there some kind of sealant/adhesive I can use?
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Thanks for the offer!
As mentioned to a LeroyC, I think I am pretty good for parts but will let you know otherwise.
One small issue, the group seal seems to come loose after using the blind filter. I have the conical type from Boema. Is this a ‘thing’ for these machines and/or is there some kind of sealant/adhesive I can use?
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Nice work, I have replaced the tap internals on mine so have left over bits if you need some.
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Okay, taps (including all internals) now fully services (my bad) and the machine is purring along nicely!
Will keep it powered up for a few hours without making a coffee just to make sure it is 110% before moving it inside.
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