Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Profitec Pro 500 filling boiler during milk steaming

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • crazyhakins
    replied
    Originally posted by noidle22 View Post
    Good job that it's working now, I can't understand why adjusting the pressurestat would cause the boiler to not refill as much. It's a completely different circuit, the autofill doesn't care what the boiler pressure is. Maybe as it's heating for a shorter time now, the agitated water around the probe isn't bubbling for as long and just stops in time before the autofill goes to operate, dunno. Maybe in the course of the cleaning and maintenance is what solved it. That's got me a few times before, doing multiple things as once and being unsure of what it was that made it work again. Regardless, it works now so it's all good.
    Before it was doing frequent fills that were really quick and wouldn’t have pumped much water in at all. Now, it’s waiting and doing bigger fills, which I think is indicative that the water boiling was causing the boiler probe to become exposed. Not sure, but happy it’s working well now.

    Leave a comment:


  • noidle22
    replied
    Originally posted by crazyhakins View Post
    I adjusted the pressure stat down a touch and it's seemed to put the machine at ease when steaming.....

    ....did a big clean and inspection of the internals.
    Good job that it's working now, I can't understand why adjusting the pressurestat would cause the boiler to not refill as much. It's a completely different circuit, the autofill doesn't care what the boiler pressure is. Maybe as it's heating for a shorter time now, the agitated water around the probe isn't bubbling for as long and just stops in time before the autofill goes to operate, dunno.

    Maybe in the course of the cleaning and maintenance is what solved it. That's got me a few times before, doing multiple things as once and being unsure of what it was that made it work again.

    Regardless, it works now so it's all good.

    Leave a comment:


  • crazyhakins
    replied
    Originally posted by simonsk8r View Post
    Wow! That's awesome news! Well done
    Of course I did mean to say *solve*

    Leave a comment:


  • simonsk8r
    replied
    Originally posted by crazyhakins View Post
    I've managed to love this. It was quite simple in the end, I adjusted the pressure stat down a touch and it's seemed to put the machine at ease when steaming. Glad I've finally got it sorted, it got a whole lot of love in the process, did a big clean and inspection of the internals. Maybe it was just feeling a little lonely. Thank you for all the advice with this one!
    Wow! That's awesome news! Well done

    Leave a comment:


  • crazyhakins
    replied
    I've managed to love this. It was quite simple in the end, I adjusted the pressure stat down a touch and it's seemed to put the machine at ease when steaming. Glad I've finally got it sorted, it got a whole lot of love in the process, did a big clean and inspection of the internals. Maybe it was just feeling a little lonely.

    Thank you for all the advice with this one!

    Leave a comment:


  • crazyhakins
    replied
    I’ll be getting it off to a tech likely this week. Will report back once I know more in case this becomes an issue for someone else too.

    Leave a comment:


  • Jackster
    replied
    I have trouble getting reliable temperature figures too.

    ​​​​​

    Leave a comment:


  • level3ninja
    replied
    Originally posted by crazyhakins View Post
    Do those numbers indicate anything?
    They you're unlikely to be using a Scace device to measure the temperature

    Leave a comment:


  • lancruiser
    replied
    Originally posted by crazyhakins View Post
    The water in the boiler came out at 92 degrees (out of the tap). What shocked me was the brew water that had gone through the Hx came out at just over 81 degrees. I expected it to be higher than that. Do those numbers indicate anything?
    I think that is normal. The water would have cooled down on its way out. Your cup that captured the water would also reduce the temperature somewhat.

    Leave a comment:


  • crazyhakins
    replied
    The water in the boiler came out at 92 degrees (out of the tap). What shocked me was the brew water that had gone through the Hx came out at just over 81 degrees. I expected it to be higher than that. Do those numbers indicate anything?

    Leave a comment:


  • crazyhakins
    replied
    Originally posted by Jackster View Post
    I have no idea if the deadband on the autofill can be widened or adjusted. That would let it run lower before autofilling. If it was a across the board issue and not something wrong, I'd consider a switch to turn off the pump, so you can manually turn pump off without affecting the boiler. Or id consider a microswitch to shut pump off automatically whenever steaming... How I'd do this, not sure..
    I think it’s probably tech time but before I do I’ll test a couple more things and have a better look under the hood. There’s certainly something not right with the steam boiler. What that is remains unclear. Steam performance is definitely not what it should be and the need to refill during steaming is problematic. I have wondered if it’s something to do with the heating element either not getting enough power or not turning on and off as it should. I’m gonna check brew temp in the morning.

    Leave a comment:


  • Jackster
    replied
    I have no idea if the deadband on the autofill can be widened or adjusted. That would let it run lower before autofilling.

    If it was a across the board issue and not something wrong, I'd consider a switch to turn off the pump, so you can manually turn pump off without affecting the boiler. Or id consider a microswitch to shut pump off automatically whenever steaming... How I'd do this, not sure..

    Leave a comment:


  • Caffeinator
    replied
    At this level, the boards don't do a whole lot more than control autofill. If the probe is clean, 95% that it's a board on the way out or the autofill logic in them is poorly calibrated to our conditions. Unless the board has proprietary connectors, there will be alternatives which don't do this. It shouldn't happen (pretty much ever).

    Leave a comment:


  • Brewster
    replied
    Just my personal opinion mate,
    I have no idea how much a new controller cost, but I would want to be damn confident that replacing it would fix the problem before spending the dollars. No point spending money and replacing with exactly the same part doing the same thing.
    We already know that yours is not the only machine doing this to some extent.
    Switching the machine off during the process, while maybe a short term work around, would not be acceptable to me long term.
    Given that the advice from the machine technicians contributing to this discussion, is that it should not be happening, then I would be getting it into a workshop for a tech to have a look at it. Maybe time for a full service too?
    Plenty of opinions here as to what the problem may be, but without eyes and hands on your machine, nobody really knows for sure.
    Like I said, just my 2c, Good luck.
    Mal

    Leave a comment:


  • crazyhakins
    replied
    I thought the Gicar controllers were supposed to be built like tanks, as in commercial grade.

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X