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If you do a search at Radio Spares or Element14 for example using the data printed on the original relay, you should be able to locate a suitable equivalent...
Thanks Jackster. That did the trick! The boiler element now comes on. Despite a bit of steam/water being emitted from the valve on the boiler for a minute or so the machine seems to have settled down. One weird thing though is as some point the pressure gauge seems to have gone all the way around to the stop, even with the machine turned off. I'm wondering if this has something to do with when I replaced the pressurestat? Rather than just bung it on is this a correct procedure for replacing it?
Here's the relay in question. Having a hard time finding a supplier in Aus. Does anybody know where I can source one of these? I'm in the Canberra region.
Did some more digging and measured the voltage on the input to the RL1 relay in the level regulator. It was 30V DC but the output was 0V when it should be 240V AC. So I'm guessing the relay is stuffed? The other relay RL2 that appears to control the pump and solenoid looks to be working fine. Anyway, going to order a replacement relay and see if it fixes it.
Please let me know if I'm barking up the wrong tree ;-)
I have BFC Junior Lever whose boiler is no longer operating. Initially the problem was intermittent. If I flicked the power switch on/off a few times the heater element light would come on and the boiler start to operate. Now the heater light will only flicker for a second when the machine is turned on. If I operate the group lever the pump runs and cold water is dispensed from the group head. The steam and hot water outlets do not work i.e. the pump does not run.
After reading some similar posts I replaced the Campini pressurestat but this has not fixed the problem. I've measured the resistance of the heater element at 36 Ohms which I think is normal?
The next thing I suspected was the Gicar level regulator so removed the cover but there is no evidence of any damage. There are no burn marks and the capacitors look fine. Apart from confirming that the transformer is outputting 12V DC I'm not sure what else I can check to confirm if the level regulator is the culprit. Not keen on spending $230 on a new one only to find it doesn't fix the problem.
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