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Re: How to fix those dreaded em0480 problems for g
Hey
I havent used mine yet and am a bit concerned about doing all this and it blowing up and not having warranty. Should I wait until it starts to slip? Or make changes in 6 months. Or even better see how yours goes over the next few months. I know its not supposed to heat up too much but masking tape????
Great ideas though and smart thinking pity Sunbeam didnt do this
Re: How to fix those dreaded em0480 problems for g
Sueb.....................wait a little and see how it goes, if you dont want to mod it, Sunbeam will happily swap it.
Im not sure where your coffee making skills are , but some of the above mods will make more sense once you have used the grinder for a bit and the improvements [and the reasons behing doing them] will be more noticeable once your coffee skills reach a certain level.
Ray
Nice work, Nice shot.
When I was playing around with mine and trying to make it steppless, I siliconed some little strips of rubber between the "humps". It worked ok but the position of the collar wasnt very stable, ie a little bump and the grind setting would move. I then tried glued a rubber strip [cut down rubber band] over the whole length of the "humps" which made an improvement but I still found it unstable, hence my thinking on the cable tie.
Just curious, how stable is position of your collar?
Re: How to fix those dreaded em0480 problems for g
Ray, your mods are very crafty, and look like they will tighten the whole burr assembly up nicely, at least in the short term, but I would worry that the wear and tear that results in increasing sloppiness in the plastic parts of the assembly will have the same or worse effects on masking tape and wood, over time. I had my first sign of the upper burr sitting a bit deeper into its housing with my grinder (now espresso grind works at 11 whereas it used to be 14/15, and it is only about a month old). I pulled it apart as others have. As you have observed, the plastic does not offer a very strong support where the burr sits and the metal compresses it a little (very silly design!). I am wondering if it is possible that this happens early in the grinders life, as the burr and plastic assembly wears in with use, and that it might stabilise at 11 or thereabouts (for optimal espresso), which might explain the grinders used by sunbeam for their demo all working on 10-12. Maybe this is wishful thinking....
Re: How to fix those dreaded em0480 problems for g
Kaanage; Im not the best photographer that is for sure, the manufacture of nylon bushes is an awesome idea.
Dig; My grinder got down to 3 for an espresso grind hence the Deterioration didnt stop, my theory is that I can add more tape if need be in the future, all I can say is that it has NEVER worked this well from new.
Ruebster; my collar with the tape gasket / spacer under it is currently working very well, should it wear some more and become loose again which is probably quite likely I will add some more to it. By the way great advice to Sue...
Re: How to fix those dreaded em0480 problems for g
Originally posted by vicroamer link=1183436456/30#30 date=1183494761
Try Teflon tape for the burr carrier thread. [smiley=wink.gif]
Thanks mate I didnt explain myself very clearly, the problem wasnt with the thread being sloppy it was the plastic locating lugs being too small for the mating housing... "made that way from factory" I still cant work out why they would do that...anyway its going very well now 8-)
Re: How to fix those dreaded em0480 problems for g
Thanks for the info!
Well Ive tried the grinder. Hubby decided to have a look at the burrs before I started and then put it back together. So i try and a grind and even on the finest it comes out like wood shavings. I think crap Ive got a dud. Then Hubby says let me have a look he hadnt put it back together properly. Well now I have fine grind on 12. My first go so will play with the settings. Hopefully will be able to do the mods if and when it starts to play up
Re: How to fix those dreaded em0480 problems for g
I havent seen inside one of these grinders so cant comment from experience but replacing a seal with a bush concerns me. I expect the seal to be there to keep grinds out, which could build up in the motor to cause a short or worse. Maybe consider replacing that seal and dig deeper and check for bodgie bushes/bearings.
Re: How to fix those dreaded em0480 problems for g
When brand new my burrs just touched when wound right down and something ressembling a fine espresso grind was about 12 to 14 depending on the beans. Just for the record this is my second em0480 the first one which was only a few months old died an agonising death, there was a horrible noise followed by a flash and then smoke, needless to say it worked no longer. They happily replaced it, there was no trouble there, you really cant complain about their customer service, I just dont think they will show the same level of service regarding the lack of quality manufacturing.
Its obviously produced to a budget and thats what you get.
Re: How to fix those dreaded em0480 problems for g
Originally posted by vicroamer link=1183436456/30#39 date=1183547375
I havent seen inside one of these grinders so cant comment from experience but replacing a seal with a bush concerns me. I expect the seal to be there to keep grinds out, which could build up in the motor to cause a short or worse. Maybe consider replacing that seal and dig deeper and check for bodgie bushes/bearings.
I tried that.. I started disassembling it from underneath and found it to be a nightmare, it is assembled in order of components with non detachable wiring etc... which means you have to butcher it quite a bit. I then studied the so called rubber seal on top of the shaft and found it to also be substandard with heaps of clearance and slop in it (flogged out so to speak) wouldnt keep rice out so a snug fitting solid bush was always going to be better than it was.
Re: How to fix those dreaded em0480 problems for g
"I tried that.. I started disassembling it from underneath and found it to be a nightmare, it is assembled in order of components with non detachable wiring etc... which means you have to butcher it quite a bit. I then studied the so called rubber seal on top of the shaft and found it to also be substandard with heaps of clearance and slop in it (flogged out so to speak) wouldnt keep rice out so a snug fitting solid bush was always going to be better than it was.
Ray."
Fair enough Ray, sounds like your making a better fist of it than sunbeam.
Re: How to fix those dreaded em0480 problems for g
Originally posted by Sueb link=1183436456/30#37 date=1183527712
Thanks for the info!
Well Ive tried the grinder. Hubby decided to have a look at the burrs before I started and then put it back together. So i try and a grind and even on the finest it comes out like wood shavings. I think crap Ive got a dud. Then Hubby says let me have a look he hadnt put it back together properly. Well now I have fine grind on 12. My first go so will play with the settings. Hopefully will be able to do the mods if and when it starts to play up
Sue
Hey Sue given some time to show some wear and tear you can always refer back to this thread for the information and how tos you may come up with better solutions and add them here yourself.
Re: How to fix those dreaded em0480 problems for g
Might as well tell you of the mod I performed on my sunbeam...
I have no problem with the grind settings from new. I grind 10-12 for fresh caf beans, and 6-7 for fresh Decaf beans.
I was really annoyed with how non-positive the steps were. when placed on one setting, I could wiggle it an increment either side before meeting resistance. Turns out that the reason is the button on the back that is used to unlock the burr carrier also moonlights as the detent that creates the step increments.
Now, this button has flat sides, and where it exits the housing, it is a reasonable fit. However, further inside, it is an 8mm wide slab of plastic in a 9mm wide hole. The detent is also at the back of the button, but on top. The effect is that the button rotates around the exit hole and allows the detent to move sideways. for a positive step engagement, this detent needs to be held firmly.
The solution is to pull the button out and file the sides flat. Then find yourself some shim material to take up the gaps either side of the button. I used a micrometer to check various materials to find just the right thickness. I ended up using slightly different thickness shims on each side, as I didnt have shim that was exactly the right thickness when used on each side. I had proper brass shim on one side, and part of a plastic screw container from Bunnings on the other side.
You wont get all the slop out, as you need to find a compromise between minimum clearance, and friction on the sides of the button. if its too tight, the button wont pop out again when pushed in.
I also touched the file onto the top edge of the (male) semicircular detent, as it is normally a semicircle in a semicircle (ie single point contact). a good detent has two points of contact to prevent sideways movement.
The end result is more positive, although still not fantastic. Id really like to feel and hear it click into position, and stay there when a bit of rotational force is applied.
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