Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Rancilio Rocky burrs

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    Re: Rancilio Rocky burrs

    Calibration on my Rocky grinder appears to be accurate.

    Heres how mine it is set up:

    With the plastic hopper removed and adjusting the burrs slowly by hand where the burrs just touch lightly this corresponds to MINUS one small division.

    Backing off the burrs slightly so the motor is free to turn and no mechanical inteference sound is actually the ZERO point

    The zero point is set using a fairly crude  self tapper in the hopper "bent" (by the factory) to  limit the burr adjustment and eliminate mechanical interference.

    This measure  is presumably done to avoid the potential damage that could result from a novice running the machine on or too near to "true zero" where burrs come in contact.

    In essence the MINUS ONE small division setting provides good insurance.

    I hope this helps!

    Comment


    • #17
      Re: Rancilio Rocky burrs

      While it isnt something that youd want to do using significant force, allowing the burr-plates to touch lightly with the motor running is quite ok as a means to establish "true zero". Probably cant be done with conical burr grinders but flat burr-plates have a polished mating surface at their periphery that will slide over each other.

      Mal.

      Comment


      • #18
        Re: Rancilio Rocky burrs

        OK--so your zero sounds right.
        Dial it down (without the hopper) until the burrs just touch, and then rotate the bottom burr by hand. Do you get a consistent noise or is it off and on? If its off and on your burrs are wobbly and wont give a consistent grind. The teflon tape mod might help, as might the surgical rubber spacer ring mod.

        If its a relatively constant scraping sound then at least one point on the burrs are touching all the way around. If the grind still wont do, you will have to check that one burr isnt tilted by using squish plastic to check the gap at 3 or 4 places. There has been a thread recently about how to do this.

        Im still having trouble trying to figure out what could have gone wrong from a disassemble and clean! Rocky isnt fragile. Did you remove the top burr plates--or only screw off the brass carrier?

        Greg


        Comment


        • #19
          Re: Rancilio Rocky burrs

          Thanks for all the many replies. The Rocky is still relatively new bought in mid-Feb so I was in contact with the seller.... unfortunately for me the seller only has one repairer and it seems that the repairer is probably away on holidays - which I only found out as all week Ive been trying to contact him! >

          With no timeframe as to when the repairer is going to return Ive purchased a new set of burrs to see if that fixes the problem. The only other problem is that I still cant remove the bottom burrs. Any ideas on where I could bring the Rocky to just get the 6 screws for the burrs removed (Im in Melbourne)?

          Randy: Not sure what you mean but I doubt Ill have the tools which you mentioned but thanks anyway.

          Comment


          • #20
            Re: Rancilio Rocky burrs

            Originally posted by griffster link=1211481729/15#18 date=1212074369
            Randy: Not sure what you mean but I doubt Ill have the tools which you mentioned but thanks anyway.
            Lets see if I can explain this:



            The screwdriver need to be long enough to protrude above the top of the grinder. Of course, the bit has to be a good fit to the slot. I sometimes hone a screwdriver for a precise fit in such cases when necessary.

            The wrench can be a locking style, and this is necessary if the screwdriver has a round shaft. This makes it easier to properly position the wrench once the screwdriver is engaged wit the screw.

            NOTE: The position of the wrench is critical! it must be just below the centerline of the burr for this to work as effectively as possible.

            In the above image. the right hand is grasping the handle of the screwdriver and the left hand is holding the wrench. To loosen the screw you will SLOWLY apply force to the wrench, pulling it towards you as indicated by "2." At the same time, you are pushing DOWN firmly on the screwdriver to hold it in the slot, you are also applying a pulling force on the screwdriver in the same direction as the wrench, but with far less force.

            The idea is that you are counteracting the rotation of the burr and transferring that energy to turning the screw. The burr wants to turn anti-clockwise, but you are applying a clockwise force to balance that so that the burr does not turn at all- just the screw turns.

            If your hands are not up to the task, have someone else push down on the end of the handle of the screwdriver to keep it in the slot.

            An alternate tool can be a 1/4" drive socket wrench with extension using a 1/4" socket and appropriate screwdriver bit as used in a drill/driver. The screwdriver as described above is easier to use.

            Remember to slowly increase the amount of force that you are applying... its a Zen thing!


            Comment

            Working...
            X