Originally posted by griffster link=1211481729/15#18 date=1212074369

The screwdriver need to be long enough to protrude above the top of the grinder. Of course, the bit has to be a good fit to the slot. I sometimes hone a screwdriver for a precise fit in such cases when necessary.
The wrench can be a locking style, and this is necessary if the screwdriver has a round shaft. This makes it easier to properly position the wrench once the screwdriver is engaged wit the screw.
NOTE: The position of the wrench is critical! it must be just below the centerline of the burr for this to work as effectively as possible.
In the above image. the right hand is grasping the handle of the screwdriver and the left hand is holding the wrench. To loosen the screw you will SLOWLY apply force to the wrench, pulling it towards you as indicated by "2." At the same time, you are pushing DOWN firmly on the screwdriver to hold it in the slot, you are also applying a pulling force on the screwdriver in the same direction as the wrench, but with far less force.
The idea is that you are counteracting the rotation of the burr and transferring that energy to turning the screw. The burr wants to turn anti-clockwise, but you are applying a clockwise force to balance that so that the burr does not turn at all- just the screw turns.
If your hands are not up to the task, have someone else push down on the end of the handle of the screwdriver to keep it in the slot.
An alternate tool can be a 1/4" drive socket wrench with extension using a 1/4" socket and appropriate screwdriver bit as used in a drill/driver. The screwdriver as described above is easier to use.
Remember to slowly increase the amount of force that you are applying... its a Zen thing!


but flat burr-plates have a polished mating surface at their periphery that will slide over each other.
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