Re: Cimbali Junior cleanup & a few questions
Had a proper read through now I think and cracked the first Coopers Stout 8-). My two Cimbalis are a touch different to yours but share most components. One of mine is a belt drive DRM (the actual manufacturer) so slower speed burrs while the other is more like your junior. However both of mine have the conical/flat burrsets.
There is a fair bit of shaft above the upper bearing before the burrs so if in doubt replace them bearings are cheap and dont lose the wave washer!
No stopper on them and the numbers mean nothing other than a relative number. One of mine runs at -1 and the other at 3ish for espresso.
The clumps if your getting them will only be soft clumps and oily beans could be part of the cause so dont panic they are not hard clumps like some of the smaller grinders can give. Excessive wear on the cutting section of the burrs could be an issue with this.
No mine do have a bit of movement between them.
The Radial difference of .35mm is wrong so either the lower burr carrier or the burrs are not quite machined correctly. That said my thoughts are that while not perfect the angle of the upper to lower cutting faces is fairly slight and there is a bit of flat surface after the bevel sections finish so they will still grind consistantly if they have life left.
If you are failing to get a grind suitable for espresso without the burrs touching ocasionally with the tiny bit of vertical movement then I would shout it a new set of burrs, I suspect they are actually dead. Regardless of them being good or bad a new set of burrs will be a good thing to have in the drawer if you are going to keep the grinder.
If you are buying new burrs make very sure you are getting the correct ones as over time several different ODs and designs were used.
Off out for the night but on balance, slight woof in the lower carrier and worn burrs would be my picks.
Had a proper read through now I think and cracked the first Coopers Stout 8-). My two Cimbalis are a touch different to yours but share most components. One of mine is a belt drive DRM (the actual manufacturer) so slower speed burrs while the other is more like your junior. However both of mine have the conical/flat burrsets.
There is a fair bit of shaft above the upper bearing before the burrs so if in doubt replace them bearings are cheap and dont lose the wave washer!
Originally posted by 6F7C7A636F600E0 link=1309103467/0#0 date=1309103467
Originally posted by 6F7C7A636F600E0 link=1309103467/0#0 date=1309103467
Originally posted by 6F7C7A636F600E0 link=1309103467/4#4 date=1309701219
The Radial difference of .35mm is wrong so either the lower burr carrier or the burrs are not quite machined correctly. That said my thoughts are that while not perfect the angle of the upper to lower cutting faces is fairly slight and there is a bit of flat surface after the bevel sections finish so they will still grind consistantly if they have life left.
If you are failing to get a grind suitable for espresso without the burrs touching ocasionally with the tiny bit of vertical movement then I would shout it a new set of burrs, I suspect they are actually dead. Regardless of them being good or bad a new set of burrs will be a good thing to have in the drawer if you are going to keep the grinder.
If you are buying new burrs make very sure you are getting the correct ones as over time several different ODs and designs were used.
Off out for the night but on balance, slight woof in the lower carrier and worn burrs would be my picks.







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