If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
Originally posted by 4E7B666E6E656C7A090 link=1313415426/15#15 date=1315974970
Why not try to reinstall again if the above measuring techniques require some sort of guage and are otherwise tricky to perform. A reinstall with particular attention to ensuring a good flat seating of the burrs might be enough.
There is nothing to lose and the possibility of a greeat grinder if it does work (and no need to sell). My fingers are crossed for you.
Your post too (post 4) I am not sure how you were able to wind down the carrier when the motor was running until the motor stopped. The reason i query this is because (as you can see from an eatrlier topic of mine) that I thought that i had wound the burrs until they were toucching, because I couldnt wind the top one down anymore. However, i discovered that gum in the threads was preventing the carrier from winding all the way down. I would check this again too.
Cheers
Greg
Thanks for your reply Greg. I am sure they are touching because there is no gunk in any of the thread (cleaned it all with toothpicks) and when I look through the chute, I can see the burrs touching. I can quite easily turn the upper burr carrier while buzzing the motor and as I screw it in, I can hear that light metal on metal sound. If I go any further, it stops the bottom burr from spinning almost instantly rather than normally winding down.
Thanks a lot for trying to help If I have misunderstood you, please let me know!
Why not try to reinstall again if the above measuring techniques require some sort of guage and are otherwise tricky to perform. A reinstall with particular attention to ensuring a good flat seating of the burrs might be enough.
There is nothing to lose and the possibility of a greeat grinder if it does work (and no need to sell). My fingers are crossed for you.
Your post too (post 4) I am not sure how you were able to wind down the carrier when the motor was running until the motor stopped. The reason i query this is because (as you can see from an eatrlier topic of mine) that I thought that i had wound the burrs until they were toucching, because I couldnt wind the top one down anymore. However, i discovered that gum in the threads was preventing the carrier from winding all the way down. I would check this again too.
Originally posted by 0013150C000F610 link=1313415426/9#9 date=1313483354
Brilliant idea for using the plasti gauge!! Would have never thought of it.
Do you unbolt the top burr from carrier so it can slip, or is the shearing not an issue?
Cheers
Just use a couple of drops of veggie oil Artman, not too much though or it will get in where you dont want it to go.
Another trick is to just use some wax paper between the top of the Plasti-Gauge and the upper burr-plate. Since youre only trying to measure parallelism, absolute measurements arent critical, so the thickness of the wax paper isnt an issue.
hmmm....very weird. No bits sticking out past the flat outer surfaces on any of the burrs, making them touch in only one spot yet still leaving a gap for the rest of the circumference? Just seems impossible large grains are getting through a smaller gap?
Thanks so much for the suggestions :-)
Ive just checked and its definitely flat. Bugger!
Any other ideas of what the cause could be?
Originally posted by 786B6D747877190 link=1313415426/7#7 date=1313467424
No, you ideally need a dial gauge. However, you can tell if the bottom burr is not flat (although you wont be able to easily tell by how much) by doing something like this:
I presume the bottom burr carrier etc was all cleaned before you swapped the burrs? Make sure it is so you know the bottom burr is sitting cleanly on the carrier.
With the top burr carrier removed, get a pencil (or something else non metallic so it doesnt screw up the burr cutting edges) and hold it against the side of the housing above the bottom burr (against the threads) and lower it so it just barely touched the bottom burr on the cutting face towards the outside edge.
Gently turn the burr and see if you get even contact throughout the entire rotation. You will need to hold the pencil firmly vertically, ie you can hold it with your fingers tightly and let your fingernail rest on top of the casting, or grip the pencil with pliers and let them rest on top of the casting. If its out of level, you will be able to get the pencil to touch lightly at one point of the rotation and not the rest.
Hard to explain but should be easy when you do it. On my grinder the burr was out by only 0.02mm and I could pick it up with doing the above (I later confirmed it with a dial gauge and was surprised it was only that much, seemed to be much more).
The other way is if you have it pulled apart and can look into the exit chute (ie perpendicular to the motor shaft), you can see the edge of the burr and spin it and see if you can see it wobbling up and down, which would probably be easier to spot if you screw the top burr back in and make the gap fine and give you a point of reference.
If you are not getting any fines I woudl think any wobble would be obvious.
An even easier way to check burr-plate clearance is to grab some "Plasti-Gauge" from Repco or similar type of outlet. Simply cut off two short pieces, lay them opposite each other along the perimeter of the lower burr-plate and then screw the upper burr carrier down as far as it will go.
Remove the upper burr carrier and measure the width of the Plasti-Gauge. Refer to the table on the packet to determine the clearance between the burr-plates. I used to use precision thickness Lead wire for this years ago, but the Plasti-gauge material is very good and accurate enough for this sort of thing.... 8-)
No, you ideally need a dial gauge. However, you can tell if the bottom burr is not flat (although you wont be able to easily tell by how much) by doing something like this:
I presume the bottom burr carrier etc was all cleaned before you swapped the burrs? Make sure it is so you know the bottom burr is sitting cleanly on the carrier.
With the top burr carrier removed, get a pencil (or something else non metallic so it doesnt screw up the burr cutting edges) and hold it against the side of the housing above the bottom burr (against the threads) and lower it so it just barely touched the bottom burr on the cutting face towards the outside edge.
Gently turn the burr and see if you get even contact throughout the entire rotation. You will need to hold the pencil firmly vertically, ie you can hold it with your fingers tightly and let your fingernail rest on top of the casting, or grip the pencil with pliers and let them rest on top of the casting. If its out of level, you will be able to get the pencil to touch lightly at one point of the rotation and not the rest.
Hard to explain but should be easy when you do it. On my grinder the burr was out by only 0.02mm and I could pick it up with doing the above (I later confirmed it with a dial gauge and was surprised it was only that much, seemed to be much more).
The other way is if you have it pulled apart and can look into the exit chute (ie perpendicular to the motor shaft), you can see the edge of the burr and spin it and see if you can see it wobbling up and down, which would probably be easier to spot if you screw the top burr back in and make the gap fine and give you a point of reference.
If you are not getting any fines I woudl think any wobble would be obvious.
To do an actual measurement, do I need to get some small kind of spirit level and sit it on the bottom burr carrier?
Tim
Originally posted by 6774726B6768060 link=1313415426/5#5 date=1313458118
Seems odd, ie if the burrs are almost touching, (and flat and parallel) then it would be physically impossible for grains larger in size than the gap to escape through this (tiny) gap.
Have you actually measured the flatness of the burr while its mounted on the bottom carrier?
Or is there a small raised projection on one of the burrs that is making that burrs clash but there is a gap for the rest of area?
Seems odd, ie if the burrs are almost touching, (and flat and parallel) then it would be physically impossible for grains larger in size than the gap to escape through this (tiny) gap.
Have you actually measured the flatness of the burr while its mounted on the bottom carrier?
Or is there a small raised projection on one of the burrs that is making that burrs clash but there is a gap for the rest of area?
Im 100% sure that they are touching - I buzzed the motor and wound it down to the point where the burrs literally stop each other just to double check
Originally posted by 0B3E3334001C3039393A3A5F0 link=1313415426/3#3 date=1313444629
Check that the threads are spotless and perhaps use some carbon graphite. It may be that you think the burrs are touching but its just gunk in the threads.
Check that the threads are spotless and perhaps use some carbon graphite. It may be that you think the burrs are touching but its just gunk in the threads.
The replacements are generic burrs, however they grind exactly the same as with the original burrs that I took out.
Yes the burrs are flat and parallel.
Tim
Originally posted by 2132342D212E400 link=1313415426/1#1 date=1313418993
Are the replacement burrs genuine? It has been reported here that some non genuine burrs are very poor quality and grind worse than worn originals.
Leave a comment: