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Eureka Mignon: Are your burrs touching to get a decent grind?
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I had the Specialita and it turns out my burrs were blunt. Getting a new set on their way.
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Thought I’d revive this thread as a couple of weeks ago I had the same issue the OP had. At first I thought I was going crazy but basically I had gotten to the point where the burrs were touching but the shots were coming out way too fast.
I have had the Mignon Silenzio for just under two and a half years and I calculated that in that time I’ve ground about 65kg of coffee. This is way under Eureka’s claim of approx 270kg before changing burrs, so in the beginning I was thinking surely the burrs aren’t worn already.
Anyway, after reading some other forums I ended up purchasing new burrs. I had the same issues as a few other people here with removal of the original burrs, the screws were a bit tricky to remove. I found using an impact driver really helped with cracking them loose, although the driver never went into impact mode, it was just able to provide enough torque and control and enabled me to put some decent downward pressure on the driver to stop the bit camming out.
Straight away I could see a big difference between the old and new burrs. The old burrs were all shiny as if they’d been polished, whereas the new ones were very matt and much sharper.
I put the new burrs in, reassembled and found the zero point. I backed off by one point and put a dose of beans in. You could hear the difference as it was grinding the beans.
I put the grounds in basket, tamped and pulled a shot. Completely choked my machine. Backed off another whole point and shot was still too slow. Backed off another half point and voila, perfect shot.
From the old burrs touching and pulling shots way too fast to being two and a half points back from the zero point and pulling great shots.
Long story short, if the burrs are touching and grinding too coarsely and you’ve made sure they are aligned, do yourself a favour and grab a new set of burrs.
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unfortunately no luck. I can't get the bottom burr off despite all my best efforts! I thought i'd stop before doing some damage. it must be thoroughly caked on with grinds.
I'm beginning to doubt whether this so called 'service' last year actually happened despite the documents saying it did...(it wasn't a site sponsor so don't know anything about the company)
Anyway i appreciate all the advice and concern given in this thread! I believe the next step will be to take it for a proper service/diagnosis when i get a chance. Will keep everyone updated.
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OK I'll have to wait till Monday to borrow the right flat head screwdriver off my friend again buy I'll give it a crack then.
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I see! Use a wooden chopstick to jam the vane by sticking into the grind outlet. Then try unscrew them. Make sure you use the right flat blade this time
edit: wait, my bad, you did unscrew them. Just try a flat blade to lever the wedge(you can pick at the inner side as well)? Or use a wooden chisel and hammer for a quick tap? They're stuck because of coffee grind, so brute but gentle force(avoid damaging the burrs and shaft) is the only way.
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MadforCoffee - to be honest, i couldn't get my bottom burr off! undid the screws but couldn't move it and no space to get something in to lever it. any tips on getting it off?
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Hey Iggs, grinding with burrs touching(or near) certainly can't be right. You had rotated the top burr, have you done the bottom burr as well? Just to eliminate the possibility of grind chunk throwing off your bottom burr parallelism. No need to rotate, just remove, clean with vacuum+brush, and replace back. If that fails too, you either have burrs problem or shaft/alignment problem.
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I have never dialed my Eureka Mignon to touch burrs. After it was dialed in by the vendor on testing when I bought it in 2012, the most I have gone is halfway between a number on the micrometer as my coffee ages post 2 weeks after roast to keep it from flowing too fast. A naked portafilter can really help in diagnosing your fast flow issues.
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I have read about the clumping issues, but i'm not seeing it. Perhaps my grind isn't even fine enough to suffer from this issue?
JojoS - just a question. how far off burrs touching are you grinding at to get a good shot?
No naked portafilter unfortunately.
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I believe you have to rule out if you have any clumping issues that are common with Eureka Mignon at espresso grind range. I twack the doser as I grind and I also do DWT. Do you use a naked portafilter?
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my burrs feel relatively sharp to the touch and were replaced last year so i don't think that's the problem.
To clarify, this morning i dialled down the ground till the burrs were touching, then wound it back one 'step'. The resulting pour was too fast and watery. Maybe i was being generous in saying it was 'barely decent'.
Having said this I did almost choke the shot the other day (i can't remember what the grind setting was, but it must have been similar to today or just slightly finer because there's not much wiggle room before burrs are touching)
So yes, when i think about it, i'm confused. the results have been inconsistent which is why i'm at a bit of a loss at the moment!
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Too bad the tip didn't work for you. I don't really get what you mean by " grind is barely decent". Are your burrs still sharp? Can you grind fine enough to choke the shot?
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I managed to get the top burr off, gave it a good clean and rotated it to the right (two times) as per JojoS suggestion. Still no improvement unfortunately. The grind is barely decent even with the burrs backed off only slightly from touching.
any other advice?
Otherwise i think the next step is to take it in for a pro inspection/service.
Looks like it's back to my trusty beast for the time being (Old Bezzera, built like a tank and the size of one too! Doesn't fail me in the cup though
)
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With the stationary burr, I've found it to be much easier to use an impact driver of some description, with the burr-carrier resting on a piece of plywood or similar.
Not recommended for the rotary burr unless you're intending to replace the motor/shaft bearings, as impact of any kind will cause damage known as "brinelling"...
Mal.
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