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Mazzer Mini - HALP!

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  • Mazzer Mini - HALP!

    Just acquired a 14 year old mini Luigi, pretty sure its never had its burrs changed and its been in storage for the past 2 years according to previous owner. So giving it a good clean and will be changing its burrs. Overall good condition but just smells like old ashtray.

    Cleaned what i could for the heavy caked on grounds with a toothpick, but I know there's definitely more underneath the disc (whatever its called that connect the moving motor to the lower burr).

    I can't unscrew it as its tightly screwed on and will move with the motor. Tried holding the sides but i've heard that they could snap? Someone has to have done this before that doesn't require breaking something or a heat gun?

    Do I need to sacrifice some screws that fit in the photo and hold that while taking off the nut?



    ------------------------------------------------------------



    Side note, could I use isopropyl alcohol to clean inside the chamber? Or stick to a tissue wipe? Trying to get a deep clean and remove the heavy smell.

    Thanks!
    Attached Files

  • #2
    Welcome "c0ajz"...

    Which way are you turning the bolt to undo it?

    Mal.

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    • #3
      Hi again Dimal,
      Counterclockwise like a normal bolt

      Comment


      • #4
        This bolt is different - Clockwise to loosen, Anti-Clockwise to tighten...
        This is due to the rotor starting up and running in a Clockwise direction, the sudden acceleration torque of the rotor would slowly but surely loosen a standard bolt.

        Try not to use anything metallic to lock the rotor while you are undoing the bolt, better to use the handle of a wooden spoon or a piece of dowel to do this...

        Mal.

        Comment


        • #5
          Thanks for that info Dimal, what do you mean my using wood to lock the rotor? Place like a wooden stick against one of the 3 prongs on the edge, then use a spanner to undo the bolt?

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          • #6
            Maybe stick it thru the exit hole to hold one of the three prongs on outer edge so you have leverage on centre bolt?

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            • #7
              Originally posted by c0ajz View Post
              Thanks for that info Dimal, what do you mean my using wood to lock the rotor? Place like a wooden stick against one of the 3 prongs on the edge, then use a spanner to undo the bolt?
              Exactly...

              Mal.

              Comment


              • #8
                Thanks for the help, got the bolt off! Now with a new problem.... the carrier won't come off?

                https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hor1xIxoiBo


                In the video at 1:13 that's the bolt I took off, and then I had the lower burr screws removed, but how did he remove the bottom carrier so easily in the next clip? I've been using a hairdryer to get it hot and pry it open with a steel chopstick wrapped thinly in paper. But still no luck? He is able to take his off so easily with no effort and a screwdriver, mine is like, glued on. Any suggestions?

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                • #9
                  The same clip from 1:26-1:31

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                  • #10
                    It's probably stuck together with coffee oils that have oxidised and turned into a kind of varnish.
                    Try some gentle taps using a piece of 8-10mm dowel, vertically around the circumference of the Slinger.
                    Hopefully this will fracture any varnish that's causing the problem and then allow you to gently lever the Slinger off as per the video...

                    Mal.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Dimal View Post
                      Try some gentle taps using a piece of 8-10mm dowel, vertically around the circumference of the Slinger.
                      I wouldn't do that, as it poses a slight risk of bending the carrier so the burrs end up out of parallel.
                      My method if the carrier won't pull off easily is to get 3 long screws with the same thread as the burr mounting screws, thread them down into the screw holes into the carrier until they hit the bottom of the chamber, then tighten them each 1/2 turn, then each 1/2 turn again and so on (to spread the forces evenly) and once you have some decent tension on the carrier, place a block of wood on the centre of the carrier and give it a thump with a hammer to jar it loose. If no joy, repeat by tightening all the screws a bit more (keeping it even) and trying again. Has never failed me, and have never ended up with bent parts except where they were already bent, and were coming off for replacement.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Handy to know M'GT...

                        Didn't realise that the threaded holes run straight through.
                        You could also make a very simple Bearing Puller to do this given the above.

                        Mal.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Thanks for the info MGT & Dimal, before seeing this i was still prying it off with a flat head screwdriver wrapped in paper from the exit chute. After 30 mins trying, I was concerned i'd bend the screwdriver first before getting it anywhere near to budge even in the slightest. Will try your method tomorrow MGT, any idea what size screws they are? i'd have to head to bunnings for that.

                          I was probably right that the carrier had never been once cleaned :/

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            MGT, Thanks so much for that tip! haha, got it off finally so happy about it. The screws left some small dents on the bottom of the chamber (because its a quite thin piece of metal underneath) from the force needed to pull them out :/ But I think it should be fine as theres also protruding screws on the metal anyways, but not something i'd want to do often though.

                            Also, what do you guys recommend cleaning the chamber with? Isopropyl wipes is ok? I'm gonna wash the carriers and burrs in dish soap also if that's safe to do?

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by c0ajz View Post
                              The screws left some small dents on the bottom of the chamber (because its a quite thin piece of metal underneath) from the force needed to pull them out
                              That's why I suggested the manufacture of a simple Bearing Puller that would place the force on top of the Bolt Head in the rotor shaft. Plenty strong enough then for repeated use, say annually, to give the innards a good cleanup.

                              Originally posted by c0ajz View Post
                              Also, what do you guys recommend cleaning the chamber with? Isopropyl wipes is ok? I'm gonna wash the carriers and burrs in dish soap also if that's safe to do?
                              Best to soak all the (non aluminium) grubby parts in a strong solution of Cafetto Espresso Clean, using hot water. Would recommend about a teaspoon of the stuff dissolved in a jug or small bucket of hot water, then dunk all the bits to soak for an hour or two. May take more than one go at this to achieve complete cleanliness but it will do a great job...

                              With all of the aluminium parts, you could try the IPA and see how you go. Don't know if it will do a lot but will probably require a bit of elbow grease. Another option would be to soak a folded up paper towel in the above strong-ish solution of Cafetto, repeatedly wipe over the old coffee oils and then thoroughly rinse off immediately afterwards. If you leave the Cafetto solution on for a while, it will start to corrode and mar the aluminium surface. Someone else may have a better (non-corrosive) solution for doing this but it is what I have done with old, uncared for grinders in the past, with no detrimental effects other than to achieve a bright, clean surface.

                              When you're finished, just thoroughly dry off all the parts (perhaps in a warm oven), reassemble and you're good to go...

                              Mal.

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