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And there I am Playing in the Garage with a Large Jacobs Ladder, Trying to get a better Spark..
Gold Plated rods look to be the way to go..
And Im not an Electrician just a Tinkerer..
Standard Disclaimer.
HV can be Fatal.
Im not an electrician (im and accountant and lawyer), but have an interest in electronics/mechanics etc. so I was able to mod it myself.
you are probably the best person to determine what your own abilities are. so if you are not sure about something dont do it, or get a book out from the library, google it or ask someone who knows.
i think you get the idea with the disclaimers/warnings.
Originally posted by JavaB link=1164073183/0#8 date=1164253790
Some of these motors are capacitor run (like mine), others could be capacitor start.
The capacitor is NOT on the motor but on the logic board..... and if you wire 240 volts direct to these motors they will not only fail to rotate.... but will overheat and quite possibly catch fire!!!
Some of these motors are capacitor run (like mine), others could be capacitor start.
The capacitor is NOT on the motor but on the logic board..... and if you wire 240 volts direct to these motors they will not only fail to rotate.... but will overheat and quite possibly catch fire!!!
If you dont have knowledge of electric motors etc.......
Tampering with the internal wiring of electrical appliances is fraught with risk for the unqualified and unwary. At the very minimum, some or all of the internal wiring will be at a potential of 240V AC and this can, and will KILL you. Even if you manage to stay alive, any subsequent or consequential damage (house burning down, 3rd Party Injury) will NOT be covered by your Insurance Policy if the work undertaken was not certified by a licensed practitioner (an Electrician for example).
Therefore, if you are not a suitably qualified Licensed Electrical Practitioner, any work you undertake must be inspected and tested for compliance with current Regulations and Government Legislation. Any work completed that is not subjected to this protocol, may put you, your family members (and your possessions) at extreme risk of injury, disability or even death. Please be responsible when considering any and all such work.
I have modded mine. (actually it was my inlaws old one, the shaft is a bit worn but it does the job) I will try and get some photos and post them up. My mod does render it useless for making bread. although if all you want to do is kneed dough then the mod is quite effective ;D
All up the cost was $3 for an illuminated switch. Go to an electronics shop to get one, but make sure you get a switch that can handle 240v (assuming the motor is 240V) my switch is 15amp at 240v so more than enough. I just wired direct to the switch and then to the motor.
my motor was 240v, I think it actually had it written on the motor.
To do the mod:
1)firstly unplug it.
2) I then stripped out all the internals and removed the heater element in the oven part.
3) Cut a hole in the top of the bread box with a dremel and installed the switch.
4) pick up the active an neutral coming in from the main cord (make sure you leave it grounded)
Simple mod really 240v (ouch) comes in and goes to the now redundant control board. From there it goes (check first) to the motor. Mine is simply hotwired from the inlet to the motor wires bypassing all the unnecessary electronics that control the heater and the timer. I did not bother to put a switch in because after all there is one on the power point. If you are uncertain get someone who knows to do it, or simply experiment and make sure you test on a circuit with a ELD
Originally posted by MM-MochaMaster link=1164073183/0#2 date=1164074093
Someone with similar knowledge
What you are doing is applying the 240 Volts direct to the BM motor (after ensuring it is infact a 240 Volt motor)...... Different brands have different ways of powering the motor.... mine is a capacitor run motor- bidirectional at that....
So you need to work out how the motor is supplied power.... install a switch so it gets that power from the electronics or direct from the mains..... (and the type of switch - mine is a two pole center off- will vary with the type/model of breadmaker). Unfortunately more than a "generic" description wont help... but if you know your way around electric motors....its easy to work out what is required..... if you dont then DONT attempt it!!
:-[
Would probably also be useful to in convincing my OH that the breadmaker will not be permanently rendered useless
If you want to add a temp probe (Id recommend that)... then you will have a hole in the side of the bowl.... the bread maker has then gone to a "higher calling" and will never be able to mix dough again.
While not an electrician, I trust my own ability and sensibility to get he job done, in a safe manner. I would however, spend time analysing and figuring things out. This is where a bit more info from the people who have done it so far would be useful. Would probably also be useful to in convincing my OH that the breadmaker will not be permanently rendered useless.
Basically there are no details of the mod... because it needs to be performed by an electrician (or someone with similar knowledge) and they will know what to do....
It involves bypassing the electronics on the mains side of things where the bitey 240 volts lives.... and one mistake could be fatal.
So if you know a friendly sparky.... he can do it in about 15 minutes (only requires a $2.50 switch!)
I had a bit of a look around, and couldnt find it anywhere - does anyone have any specific information about the mod needed for the breadmaker to make it run continuously? Its probably in a thread somewhere ...
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