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Please help me build my new roaster.

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  • Remy
    replied
    Re: Please help me build my new roaster.

    Originally posted by Wine_of_the_Bean link=1209298581/120#122 date=1210154369
    How stable is the whole thing?  Just seems that the base is a bit small for something that will be very top heavy.
    It might be the angle of the pic,. but in real life it looks like its going to be very stable surprisingly,. the diameter of the colander being 26cm and the widest part of the bean bowl being 34cm,.. and by the time I get the motor fixed in too which weighs 700g on its own, then with long shaft, nuts, washers and whatever,. it might come close to 900g sitting in the base.  I could always add more weight in there too if needed as there is plenty of room to tie weight in.

    You could forgo using a bowl completely if you have a deepish frying pan the same diameter as the TO lid.  Too deep and youll have a problem with roast being too long.  Youll also have a handle to help lessen the risk of burnie ow ows.
    I exhausted the search for a shallow frypan this size 31cm. That was my preferred option,.. but impossible to do.  I have one SS frypan here that fits perfectly actually, but it was a not-so-long-ago expensive (on sale) purchase and my hubby would not be thrilled about me drilling a hole in it.  I searched cheapy shops, recycle/reuse places,  and none of them had anything even close to that size.  I went to BigW, Kmart, Myer, David Jones, Grace Bros, Hardly Normal in several shopping malls over the past weeks and many of them had no frypans at all that big and if they did the SS ones were like $100 - $275.  I couldnt find any cheapy frypans at all that size..they were all too small and were aluminium teflon or similar coatings anyway which would not be any good anyway. It needs to be SS and buying a 31cm SS frypan if you can find one would cost a fortune.  Sooooh... hence why I had to go the next best option... a SS salad bowl(deeper than I wanted yes, but I think it will be ok) for $9.95. If it proves to be too deep and problematic,.. I will take the extension ring off and try it without it. Looking at it with lid straight on the bowl though, I think it would be way too close to the beans.

    I mounted my contraption on two lots of old bricks.  The wiper motor sitting in the middle, held in place by the brick stacks.  Pot sits on top with rotisserie shaft coming up through the bottom.
    I need the roaster to be very portable (single complete unit) plonk on table out the back, plug in and roast, then pick it up and store in cupboard just as quickly,..just like a bought one,lol. In my planning... I have taken into consideration that it also needs to pack away neatly and as small as possible. So,. the TO head can be turned upside down and sit inside the bowl and the base section on top (or left at the bottom, doesnt really matter) but this makes the unit compact to just 31cm high and of course 34cm wide. which will fit in a square plastic container of some sort and stored away easily/neatly in a cupboard.

    This is it in its packed state,... of course this would be ideal but only possible if I can fit the shaft how I want to.


    To dump the beans, I get some needle nose pliers and undo the thumbscrew for the "meat holder," and pull it out of the pot.  I then lift the pot up, and dump it into my cooler.  All this with heat protection on hands.
    Im still giving thought to the quick bean dump and how best to fit the individual components together and shaft & stirrers etc to make is really easy and not painful,.lol, without compromising the compactness/neatness of it in general.

    I have a little bean cooler idea and one component for that too so far.  Getting there...slowwwwly.  But a tonne of fun too.

    Leave a comment:


  • MattG
    replied
    Re: Please help me build my new roaster.

    Looks good all round, although Id have to agree about the (in)stability of the base.

    Were you suggesting the platform the beans will sit on be perforated? With my CO/SC setup I found it difficult to keep enough heat in with it being largely insulated (except for a slight gap for chaff to escape from). The largest inconsistency with the Turbo Crazy/convection oven is the temperature controller. In the 2-3 models I burned through, the temperature sensitivity was about 10 degrees Celsius. Then there is the additional drop in temperature waiting for the heater to kick in again and get up to full temperature.

    Leave a comment:


  • Wine_of_the_Bean
    Guest replied
    Re: Please help me build my new roaster.

    How stable is the whole thing? Just seems that the base is a bit small for something that will be very top heavy. You could forgo using a bowl completely if you have a deepish frying pan the same diameter as the TO lid. Too deep and youll have a problem with roast being too long. Youll also have a handle to help lessen the risk of burnie ow ows.

    I mounted my contraption on two lots of old bricks. The wiper motor sitting in the middle, held in place by the brick stacks. Pot sits on top with rotisserie shaft coming up through the bottom.

    To dump the beans, I get some needle nose pliers and undo the thumbscrew for the "meat holder," and pull it out of the pot. I then lift the pot up, and dump it into my cooler. All this with heat protection on hands.

    Leave a comment:


  • Remy
    replied
    Re: Please help me build my new roaster.

    Here is what my TO roaster will look like when Im finished.  None of the pieces are fixed together yet.

    At the very base, under the colander, there is actually a round aluminium perforated tray, similar to a pizza tray but just with holes. This came with the Turbo Oven and just happens to fit perfectly with the colander. I will be using this tray to fix the motor to (will post pics when done), then will fit the tray securely to the colander.  The motor will then be housed in a secure box with plenty of air circulation from colander holes to keep things cool-ish, and also a long shaft into the bean bowl for the stirrer, which hopefully will also help keep the motor from heat stress.  The base of the colander, which of course will be utilized in its upside down state,...reduces the contact area with the main bowl because of its shape and hopefully any heat transfered down to the motor box will be minimal (maybe not even as much as a car engine - even tho this is a rear wiper motor  :)...Well see though, I might stick a layer of sillicon or cork at this point.

    The extension ring (piece under glass lid) came with the Turbo Oven too, and I plan to drill a few holes in this to release smoke and chaf,.. but not sure how many yet.

    So for tomorrows job..... figure out how to do the shaft,.. what to use,.. how long,. heat to cog problem etc.


    So far I have spent;
    Turbo Oven from the evil one $108 ($89 + shipping)
    Wiper Motor (Econnovan rear wiper) from wreckers $30
    Colander (House & Home 26cm Diameter) from BigW $12.84
    Salad bowl (Chef Inox 6.5ltr 340mm) from House $9.95
    $160.79

    I still need to buy a power source,.. 12V DC A?? Adapter.  

    Im sure this could be done a little cheaper,.. by sourcing components in reuse/recycle places,.. I didnt have any luck there though. The wiper motor in particular could have been cheaper.

    So what do you think so far??


    Leave a comment:


  • Dennis
    replied
    Re: Please help me build my new roaster.

    Maybe you could use an extension shaft from a socket set, if of course you have one lying around? With a little luck it might be the same diameter as the original shaft, but sure to be longer.

    Leave a comment:


  • Remy
    replied
    Re: Please help me build my new roaster.

    Finally got the shaft out of the cog whoooooooohoooo!,.. had to chew some of the other bits off first.. then it slipped right out. Pulled that position point wire off and will cut the little strip of copper off from inside the case.

    Now I need to fit a longer shaft to the cog. Any ideas what to use?? One thing that worries me is the transfer of heat down the shaft to the cog. Is this likely to be a problem?

    Leave a comment:


  • Stan
    replied
    Re: Please help me build my new roaster.

    You forgot - Poor script. However I am learning that I may stick to working on a Coretto. I was considering a TO. :-/

    Leave a comment:


  • Remy
    replied
    Re: Please help me build my new roaster.

    Originally posted by Stan link=1209298581/105#112 date=1210060688
    It is better than days of our Lives (so Im told)  8-)
    Yes I see the similarities from my end,...its full of long puzzling stares,.. verbal abuse, a little violence with some power weapons,.. a love-hate relationship,.. deception and frustration.

    Leave a comment:


  • Dennis
    replied
    Re: Please help me build my new roaster.

    :-X

    :-X

    :-X

    Leave a comment:


  • Stan
    replied
    Re: Please help me build my new roaster.

    Us laught never We empathize with your difficulties and hope that by your example we can learn. : :

    Of course we may have a little chuckle as well. ;D

    Leave a comment:


  • Remy
    replied
    Re: Please help me build my new roaster.

    Originally posted by YeeZa link=1209298581/105#111 date=1210057795
    Originally posted by Remy link=1209298581/105#109 date=1210055385
    out with the dremel zzzzzzzzzzz.

    Sounds like its turning into that $5-$10 wiper motor after all  ;D :

    Keep at it Remy, its entertaining reading.... and youre getting all the spanners outta the way when I attack it one day.

    YeeZa
    Yeah.. I reckon theres a good chance that by the time Im finished with this wiper motor is will be worth $0 8-) ;D

    I hope youre not laughin at my frustration and incompetence with all of this :-? ......aw ok...you can laugh.

    Leave a comment:


  • Remy
    replied
    Re: Please help me build my new roaster.

    Originally posted by JavaB link=1209298581/105#110 date=1210057008
    Remy,

    DONT remove the bit of the case which holds the white gear in place......

    That MUST be in place to reduce the motor speed.... the motor on its own will rotate FAR TOO FAST but requires the gear reduction provided by the white gear.....

    You need to connect your shaft to the centre of that white gear to get the correct speed!!!
    Ok,. good to know,... thanks JavaB.  

    Well,... after a fight (darn spring clip) and help with the dremel  ;D,. I filed the spring off in the end and I have the cog out.

    Now I have to figure out how to extend the shaft... this is not going to be easy. Looks like the shaft in the cog is fixed in pretty well   . and only a few mil poke up out the top so not much to connect something else onto it there.  

    The long shaft also looks like it cannot easily be removed (cold connect by whacking and splaying metal to form a head - top r in pic) probably not worth chasing it anyway as I could easily use something else for the shaft. Oh what the heck... Ill dremel that swine too.




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  • Stan
    replied
    Re: Please help me build my new roaster.

    It is better than days of our Lives (so Im told) 8-)

    Leave a comment:


  • yeeza
    replied
    Re: Please help me build my new roaster.

    Originally posted by Remy link=1209298581/105#109 date=1210055385
    out with the dremel zzzzzzzzzzz.

    Sounds like its turning into that $5-$10 wiper motor after all ;D :

    Keep at it Remy, its entertaining reading.... and youre getting all the spanners outta the way when I attack it one day.

    YeeZa

    Leave a comment:


  • JavaB
    replied
    Re: Please help me build my new roaster.

    Remy,

    DONT remove the bit of the case which holds the white gear in place......

    That MUST be in place to reduce the motor speed.... the motor on its own will rotate FAR TOO FAST but requires the gear reduction provided by the white gear.....

    You need to connect your shaft to the centre of that white gear to get the correct speed!!!

    Leave a comment:

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