Javas new roaster and the refurbing thereof
Sorry for the slow updates, Im dealing with a bout of major tendonitis in one of my hands so typing has gone from 90wpm to 5wpm using one hand. Ugh!
Anyhoot, onto the refurbing of the little red beauty!
Now, as some of you may not know this about me lets get this right out front. Im an inveterate tinkerer, with an insatiable curiosity, with a magpie very near me in the family tree! It is impossible for me to simply buy something and just plug it in and start using it. This is especially true for a mechanical device. Being a Bright & Shiny makes it even worse! And if an item is used, well there ya go! I now have all the excuse I need to tear it apart to see what makes it tick! ;D
So once the roaster was up on the printer stand I immediately set about giving it the once over. Upon pulling the cord out it immediately became obvious that it was not a 220v unit as Id been told but rather a 120v system. Hhhhmmm....So much for wiring in a 220V circuit! Glad Id waited until I got it before doing so! Going over it while everything was very dirty all its physical functions appeared to work just fine. I could find no obvious problems with it.
The more astute of you may have noticed a PID type looking unit on the right front of the roaster. With this being the brains of the unit and the roaster being effectively lobotomized with-out it functioning it was imperative that it work properly. If it didnt work it would be a very costly repair. So I pulled the controller out of its protective case and gave it a good going over. No visual signs of any burnt out components and no smell of any either. So far so good! With the guts out I was able to pull the model information off of it. Its a Watlow series 93 microprocessor-based temperature controller (http://www.watlow.com/literature/prodtechinfo/files/controllers/series%2093%20retrofit.pdf) with one input and one output (the 2nd output channel on this one is used for alarms rather than control).
With everything having passed the initial going over I wheeled the roaster over to a 20 amp outlet and plugged it in to do a quick check of the Watlow and other electronics. I had a bit of a Oh Sh!t! moment when it didnt light up after being plugged in. This was quickly followed by the thought that maybe they were smart and hooked it into the drum on/off switch. So I flipped that to ON and sure enough after a couple of seconds the displays lit up. 72 on the top and 32 on the bottom. WooHoo!! It appears to have no major problems having passed its power on self-checks and powered up just fine, WooHoo!! Additionally the drum turned and the fan blew. So far so good! The electronics all passed their initial testing so now it was time to delve deeper into the workings of it.
Accordingly I unplugged the roaster and started pulling parts off of it and digging deeper into its internals. Looking down the chute at the bottom of the green bean hopper I spotted what appeared to be mold. So to get a better view I pulled the hopper/vent pipe assembly off.
Hhhhmmm.........I suspect Ive just discovered why the roaster was originally sold! The first pic is of the bean chute/vent pipe assembly looking at it from the drum side. It was indeed mold in there and not just mold but a whole bunch of baked on chaff residue. So much so that it was totally blocking the pipe. Unfortunately due to the angle the pic was taken from you dont really see the area where the pipe connects to the chute. The 2nd pic is about a third of the crud I scrapped out of the chute/pipe area with a AA battery included for scale. The initial large pieces I scraped straight into the garbage.


With all the crud in there there was no air flow through the pipe and hence no chaff or smoke removal, plus the bean dump flap couldnt close all the way which would make for obvious air leak problems.
I can see why the guy I bought it from never put it into production. The first time he plugged it in and did up a roast smoke probably poured from every nook and cranny of it due to the blocked vent pipe!
Heres a couple of pics of the same area cleaned up and almost ready to go back on. Most of the crud was removed by physically scrapping it out with various screw drivers. Chemicals and brushes were used to remove the rest. In the first pic the hopper dump flap is in the open position and in the 2nd it is in the closed position. On the right side you get a better view of the pipe opening and the plate in front of it. The assembly is upside-down for ease of working on.


These next two pics show the entire hopper/pipe assembly, once again upside-down, off of the roaster in a front and then rear view.


Heres the front of the roaster (before cleaning) with the hopper/pipe assembly off:

This next pic shows the interior of the front portion of the roaster under the cooling pan. The opening on the bottom right of the interior is the exhaust vent.

Time for another break here so Ill let yall read and absorb this while I give my hand a rest here. Back later with more!
Java "Crud be gone!" phile
Sorry for the slow updates, Im dealing with a bout of major tendonitis in one of my hands so typing has gone from 90wpm to 5wpm using one hand. Ugh!
Anyhoot, onto the refurbing of the little red beauty!
Now, as some of you may not know this about me lets get this right out front. Im an inveterate tinkerer, with an insatiable curiosity, with a magpie very near me in the family tree! It is impossible for me to simply buy something and just plug it in and start using it. This is especially true for a mechanical device. Being a Bright & Shiny makes it even worse! And if an item is used, well there ya go! I now have all the excuse I need to tear it apart to see what makes it tick! ;D
So once the roaster was up on the printer stand I immediately set about giving it the once over. Upon pulling the cord out it immediately became obvious that it was not a 220v unit as Id been told but rather a 120v system. Hhhhmmm....So much for wiring in a 220V circuit! Glad Id waited until I got it before doing so! Going over it while everything was very dirty all its physical functions appeared to work just fine. I could find no obvious problems with it.
The more astute of you may have noticed a PID type looking unit on the right front of the roaster. With this being the brains of the unit and the roaster being effectively lobotomized with-out it functioning it was imperative that it work properly. If it didnt work it would be a very costly repair. So I pulled the controller out of its protective case and gave it a good going over. No visual signs of any burnt out components and no smell of any either. So far so good! With the guts out I was able to pull the model information off of it. Its a Watlow series 93 microprocessor-based temperature controller (http://www.watlow.com/literature/prodtechinfo/files/controllers/series%2093%20retrofit.pdf) with one input and one output (the 2nd output channel on this one is used for alarms rather than control).
With everything having passed the initial going over I wheeled the roaster over to a 20 amp outlet and plugged it in to do a quick check of the Watlow and other electronics. I had a bit of a Oh Sh!t! moment when it didnt light up after being plugged in. This was quickly followed by the thought that maybe they were smart and hooked it into the drum on/off switch. So I flipped that to ON and sure enough after a couple of seconds the displays lit up. 72 on the top and 32 on the bottom. WooHoo!! It appears to have no major problems having passed its power on self-checks and powered up just fine, WooHoo!! Additionally the drum turned and the fan blew. So far so good! The electronics all passed their initial testing so now it was time to delve deeper into the workings of it.
Accordingly I unplugged the roaster and started pulling parts off of it and digging deeper into its internals. Looking down the chute at the bottom of the green bean hopper I spotted what appeared to be mold. So to get a better view I pulled the hopper/vent pipe assembly off.
Hhhhmmm.........I suspect Ive just discovered why the roaster was originally sold! The first pic is of the bean chute/vent pipe assembly looking at it from the drum side. It was indeed mold in there and not just mold but a whole bunch of baked on chaff residue. So much so that it was totally blocking the pipe. Unfortunately due to the angle the pic was taken from you dont really see the area where the pipe connects to the chute. The 2nd pic is about a third of the crud I scrapped out of the chute/pipe area with a AA battery included for scale. The initial large pieces I scraped straight into the garbage.
With all the crud in there there was no air flow through the pipe and hence no chaff or smoke removal, plus the bean dump flap couldnt close all the way which would make for obvious air leak problems.
I can see why the guy I bought it from never put it into production. The first time he plugged it in and did up a roast smoke probably poured from every nook and cranny of it due to the blocked vent pipe!
Heres a couple of pics of the same area cleaned up and almost ready to go back on. Most of the crud was removed by physically scrapping it out with various screw drivers. Chemicals and brushes were used to remove the rest. In the first pic the hopper dump flap is in the open position and in the 2nd it is in the closed position. On the right side you get a better view of the pipe opening and the plate in front of it. The assembly is upside-down for ease of working on.
These next two pics show the entire hopper/pipe assembly, once again upside-down, off of the roaster in a front and then rear view.
Heres the front of the roaster (before cleaning) with the hopper/pipe assembly off:
This next pic shows the interior of the front portion of the roaster under the cooling pan. The opening on the bottom right of the interior is the exhaust vent.
Time for another break here so Ill let yall read and absorb this while I give my hand a rest here. Back later with more!
Java "Crud be gone!" phile


;D
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