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It's more to do with how t/couples should be mounted and installed. Ideally, they should not be exposed to any kind of floating voltage that may occur as you can no doubt appreciate with the very small voltage levels being measured. Even though most inputs will have common mode induced voltage rejection circuitry employed, it may still be possible for a stray signal to interfere with the signal that you actually want.
Have you ensure that opportunities for possible ground loops have been identified and rectified? Is the t/c you're using a properly screened device? Where is the power currently sourced to power up the Controller? It is unusual for the kind of activity you describe to occur with a Controller that uses properly isolated inputs but, maybe the inputs are not so isolated.
If you're talking about powering up the Controller with a battery, how is this currently managed?
I am browsing the forum looking for some details on datalogging. Does anyone happen to know what brand / model the CS DMM is or what chip it uses?
G'day mate...
Andy has these custom built to specification, so they will function as expected with the CS Roast Monitor S/ware. Even so, they still retain all of the usual DMM functions so can also be used as a general purpose unit...
Originally posted by 445146464D404251474A44424D230 link=1290336667/9#9 date=1290603849
Anyway, Im just going to insulate the probe with that woven fiberglass tubing stuff.
Youd be better off trying conductive silicone for this gc as the f/glass will insulate the probe to some extent, unless youre just talking about where it penetrates the roast chamber.... :-?
Just to clarify, this is only happening when the thermocouple is conected to my custom roast controller (uses a Maxim 6675 chip the read temp from the thermocouple). It works ok in my multimeter.
Anyway, Im just going to insulate the probe with that woven fiberglass tubing stuff.
Many T/Cs and RTD devices are NOT isolated, in fact, most arent. The output from them is usually isolated at the input of the instrument being used.
Originally posted by 7D687F7F74797B687E737D7B741A0 link=1290336667/4#4 date=1290579241
Are they the yellow ones that used to come with the Digitech QM1538 multimeters?
The old type is but the newer model is a more robust design with the output cables fully shielded from the t/c fixing to within a couple of cms from the connectors. A much better t/c in my opinion...
The only way youre going to know for sure whats going on mate is to try another known good t/c with your meter and see how that goes. Were all wasting our time until you can do this....
No problem. Cant think why youre having this problem. I do have an old t/c which is yellow (it may be the one that came with the QM1538, which is now serving as an oven thermometer with the yellow t/c) -- I measured that also and found it electrically isolated.
Originally posted by 7A73687077737C120 link=1290336667/5#5 date=1290580173
I did test the beanbay t/s, both of them, see reply #2 (half an hour after your post).
They arent yellow. Im fairly sure they are different from what came with the Digitech, but I have had several and cant remember where each of them came from.
I did test the beanbay t/s, both of them, see reply #2 (half an hour after your post).
They arent yellow. Im fairly sure they are different from what came with the Digitech, but I have had several and cant remember where each of them came from.
Nope, my problem still occurs even if I dont have the popper connected. And even when powered from a battery rather than the mains.
Could someone test the beanbay thermocouples?
Are they the yellow ones that used to come with the Digitech QM1538 multimeters? http://beanbay.coffeesnobs.com.au/ViewProduct.aspx/322-spare-thermocouple-probe
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