Behmor 1600 Plus - Coffee Roaster

[Dragunov21]

I've just done the dry burn cycle, and I noticed the 'afterburner' comes on during the cooling cycle. Can anyone explain what the purpose of that is, it seems kind of counter intuitive... I thought you really wanted to cool coffee as quickly as possible... Isn't that why you put an exhaust fan in a bucket for cooling corretto roasts?

The afterburner is part of the smoke suppression system if I have it right (I'm sure Andy will correct me if I don't). It pyrolysis the smoke into CO/CO2, I imagine.

The afterburner should discharge out the back of the machine, so I doubt it has much of an effect on chamber temperature.

[FineGrind]

My Behmor + arrived today. Did the proper setup. Tried a roast. Have a few questions.
1* Is it normal to get a wee bit of chaff on the elements and blown up through the back of the machine?
2* Is it normal to get a couple of beans stuck in the paddles that get burnt?
3* The chaff flap on the chaff tray, should you flap it hard up against the drum when in position? Or have it pushed all the way down? By chaff flap I mean the flap on the top of the chaff tray (the perforated flap) not the part you push to lower the flaps on the bottom of the tray.
Thank you.

[pilko]

The afterburner is part of the smoke suppression system if I have it right (I'm sure Andy will correct me if I don't). It pyrolysis the smoke into CO/CO2, I imagine.

The afterburner should discharge out the back of the machine, so I doubt it has much of an effect on chamber temperature.

Ok, that makes sense. On looking at it closer, the afterburner elements don't look like they would generate that much heat anyway.
I opened the door after it started to cool down a bit and it felt like they were still providing a bit of heat, but I think it was just the heat still in the machine.

[doommachine]

Another question regarding the behmor.. just got mine today! Looks awesome.
It notes in the instructions that the standard roasting basket is no good for smaller bean coffees like ethiopians etc.. given my love for african coffees is this a problem? Is the other basket available through coffeesnobs?

[lemoo]

Another question regarding the behmor.. just got mine today! Looks awesome.
It notes in the instructions that the standard roasting basket is no good for smaller bean coffees like ethiopians etc.. given my love for african coffees is this a problem? Is the other basket available through coffeesnobs?

I believe that may have been true for the first production batches of the behmor a long time ago
they were then subsequently replaced with baskets that had smaller squares so that smaller beans didn't fall through

If you just got a behmor plus it should be fine

[chokkidog]

Another question regarding the behmor.. just got mine today! Looks awesome.
It notes in the instructions that the standard roasting basket is no good for smaller bean coffees like ethiopians etc.. given my love for african coffees is this a problem? Is the other basket available through coffeesnobs?

Hi Doom, post #3........I was about to say welcome to CS............. but I see you've been around a long time!! ;-)


http://coffeesnobs.com.au/roasters/28733-behmor-14.html

See posts #660 - #663

[trains]

First roast with updated panel

OK, I have just finished installing the Behmor Plus upgrade panel.

Sorry Andy but it is not an easy job. Easy in theory; instructions are as described: remove the two side panels and the top. Unplug and remove the old panel and install the new one then put it back together again. However...

Inexplicably each side panel is held on by 5 Phillips head screws and one hex screw requiring a #2 Allen key - on my machine, at least (my machine is one from the first batch of Behmor sold on CS so not sure if later models are the same.

There are two cables that connect the upgrade panel to the side circuit board. Make sure you check out how they connect so you can plug in the cables of the upgrade panel correctly.

The upgrade panel is held on by 3 screws, one at the top and two on the bottom. The bottom screw closest to the roast chamber is very difficult to access. I would say a Phillips screwdriver with a long shaft would probably do the job.

The upgrade panel, top and side panels are held together by screws and tabs and it isn't an easy job to reassemble so be methodical about it. As you disassemble, take time to observe how the panels fit together and keep the screws together in groups.

I'm not a gifted handyman and the job took me a couple of hours. I'm sure more capable CSers would find it quicker and easier. If you are hopeless with tools then I suggest you bribe a friend or relo with the promise of good coffee (or some kind CSer or site owner posts a good instruction sheet with photos)

The good news is that I managed it and when I plugged it in and press a few buttons, it started up. I haven't tried a roast yet. That will have to wait until tomorrow or the next day I think.

I would tend to agree with Flynnaus, it is a bit fiddly.
If in doubt, just take photos each step of the way. Its not complex, or difficult, just have to think a bit and be gentle, thats all.
Yes, there are 2 in hex screws in the base of the side panels.
Jaycar or equiv would have a basic set of them for 1/4" drive and are always handy around the place, so if you dont have some already, its worth investing in a set, get the tamper proof ones, with the hollow in the middle if you can.
Whilst out purchasing, get a telescopic magnet if you dont already have one, saves shaking the dropped screw out of the machine .

Best to have a good quality set of screw drivers, a 40cm long shaft would help with the 2 bottom screws on the panel.
Or just be thoughtful when using a standard stanley, and gently move the panel away a bit to turn the handle.
I found on mine there were 4 screws holding the panel, 2 bottom, and one midway up and one at the top.

Cables only go one one way, again, just be gentle.
Give it a good clean when apart, I used a damp cotton bud after brushing the fans with a childs toothbrush to remove the majority of the dust with vacum nozzle nearby, but not too close to spin the fan.


Got some Gambella Sundried
400g on 1lb (have the old school panel)
P2 B

15 seconds in to 1c I cut power to 50, and let it bubble away gently, seemed to slow the rolling crack, and extend it, then put it back to auto when 1c was pretty much over.
Good gap to 2c and let it into rolling 2c before stopping roast with cooling, pop door open 2c ends about 1 min into cooling cycle.

Lovely even roast, Cs 10- 11 will try it on the weekend and see how it is, so far, looks great, and looking forward to mapping temp in 1c as it goes along, and seing what difference I can make by manual temp changes.

Only complaint is the dead man handle, reset button, I was next to it, but couldn't read the dial as the sunlight was on it, and then realized too late it was on cooling...............grrrrrrrr.
With previous panel, I would just go by ear as to where it was, and then shade the panel to read the time and note as required.

Great to have a machine that can be upgraded, and backed with prompt, helpful service, well done Andy and your team.

Trains

[Lukemc]

I believe that may have been true for the first production batches of the behmor a long time ago
they were then subsequently replaced with baskets that had smaller squares so that smaller beans didn't fall through

If you just got a behmor plus it should be fine

I just got a plus and lost a lot of Ethiopian beans from the basket. Also a lot got jammed and burnt. I had an older behmor and never had this issue.

I put it down I a bad lot of beans but wonder now if they have gone back to the really old style of baskets?

[kutis]

My Behmor + arrived today. Did the proper setup. Tried a roast. Have a few questions.
1* Is it normal to get a wee bit of chaff on the elements and blown up through the back of the machine?
2* Is it normal to get a couple of beans stuck in the paddles that get burnt?
3* The chaff flap on the chaff tray, should you flap it hard up against the drum when in position? Or have it pushed all the way down? By chaff flap I mean the flap on the top of the chaff tray (the perforated flap) not the part you push to lower the flaps on the bottom of the tray.
Thank you.

1. Not sure, but I'm gonna say yes, I think I read somewhere it's good to open up the case and vacuum up every 6 months or so?
2. Mine has 1 spot that a single bean consistently stuck there, the paddle near the door. It stuck pretty well, so I can dump the beans and throw the stuck one to the bean. 1 bean, not sure what'll happens against peaberry though.
3. I push it all the way down. Once I tried to put it resting against the drum, and it wedged the drum door, and stop the drum from spinning. Haven't tried all the way up, don't want the fan blow it down and stop the drum, and ruin the roast. I'm not sure how the flap effects the roast anyway, keeping more heat in?

[flynnaus]

I haven't tried a roast yet. That will have to wait until tomorrow or the next day I think.

Tried a roast this morning. A bag-end blend of Gambella and Nepal Plantec (50-50)

Did the usual ~360 g set at 1lb-P2-B which allows the roast to coast into second crack at the start of the cooling phase. This can be hit and miss with some roasts taking more or less time. This morning was cooler than usual so an ideal opportunity to try the Rosetta Stone feature. At the start of first crack, there was only about 30 seconds of normal roast time left. I hit C which automatically reset the remaining time to 3:10. I heard the first snips of second crack with about 40 seconds remaining of 'extra time' , hit Cool and the roast turned out perfect; you know the smell you get that lets you know you've nailed it.
Next time I'll do the Rosetta again and try Manual mode with the Power Level to 75% (press P4)

I like the extra control the Behmor Plus gives you. Well worth the upgrade.

I can't figure out the worth of the temp sensor settings (A and B) during the roast. A gave me 153 degrees about halfway through the roast and the same about 5mins later. Pressing B showed 110 then 103. Any hints?

[hmillst]

Still waiting for mine to arrive..
According to its tracking no, it seems to have been sitting at Sunshine West since Tuesday Morning...

Can't wait to get roasting - I have about a day and a half worth of roasted beans left in my supply. Fingers crossed for tomorrow.

[chokkidog]

Tried a roast this morning. A bag-end blend of Gambella and Nepal Plantec (50-50)

Next time I'll do the Rosetta again and try Manual mode with the Power Level to 75% (press P4)

I like the extra control the Behmor Plus gives you. Well worth the upgrade.

Sounds like the new plus is going to be a blast, my son has the old 1600 with an upgraded control board and I'm

seriously considering one for myself as a sample roaster.

About $1500 cheaper than a Probat sample roaster! No brainer. :-D

My HGSR5 has variable drum speed, the 20Kg Buhler I have used, had a two speed drum drive.

What I have found with slowing the drum before, during or just after 1st crack is the slowing of the roast °RoR.

I'm guessing that the slower bean mass tumbling speed allows more air/heat to be pulled from the bean mass.

At first it seemed counter intuitive but it makes sense now.

The Buhler people said it was particularly useful for Naturals, especially Ethiopian naturals/sundried.

They certainly came out very even and looked great.

I will be interested to hear what effect is achieved with the two speed drum control on the Plus.

[Andy]

Such a barrage of questions... if I miss any post 'em up again.


Roasting Drum --
I wish the manual didn't mention the original USA drum. In the USA they had a steel drum chromed, it had larger holes and gave a few people some grief with small beans so they released a second drum with a smaller grid as an option.
In Australia we only ever had the full stainless drum with small grid pattern.... the drum has changed little over the years and the previous build (2013) and this one (2014) use the exact same drum... stainless steel "diamond" mesh with a simple clip at the top. (thanks for the link to that previous post Chokkidog). May no one ever ask me about a purchasing a small mesh drum again


Afterburner -- It comes on 3/4 of the way into a roast (just prior to things getting a little smokey) and remains on till the first couple of minutes of the cooling cycle. It won't add much heat to the chamber but the start of the cooling cycle is when the most amount of smoke is generated... hence the "over run".


Chaff Tray -- FLAP FULLY DOWN WHEN ROASTING. The idea of the flap is to help catch some of the airborne chaff pieces if the get blown out of the bottom of the tray (ie: toward the fron of the roaster). Keep the flap down when roasting but while cleaning it you can open the flap to remove chaff bits.


Rosetta Stone -- while not a "magic pill" it is a really nice way to get you pretty close to where you want to go.


Temperature --
the exhaust temperature [A] is the least useful. Before the afterburner comes on it has very little airflow, when the afterburner and draw fan come on it reads high temperatures which is mostly the afterburner temperature. It can still be used as a point in time reference though regardless of the actual number.
The chamber wall temperature [B] should also be used as a point in time reference. If you know that after 5 minutes on a 200g roast the temperature is "x" then next roast you can see if you are under or over and make manual element changes to get you back on track. I would think that knowing your "normal" temperature every couple of minutes could help you make a call on a profile change.


Upgrade Board--
Yeah, I understand that if you don't normally install this sort of thing for a living it will be a little tricky but at the same time it is fairly easy and if you take your time it's okay. The bottom of each side panel has a TORX screw, (T10 from memory). These are part of the European C-Tick approval requirements and while they were viewed as a security screw at some point in the last 47 years, today they seem to serve no real purpose as every pack of driver bits with a drill or $10 screwdriver will have a range of Torx bit sizes too. You can sometimes remove them with a small flat-blade screwdriver if you are having trouble. These don't exist on the USA roaster but the rest of the world get 'em. Personally, I doubt I would put one back into my own roaster... but you can decide.

Torx bit picture...

[amellor]

Wednesday, Pay day, Just placed my order

Boy am I going to be spoiled for choice. new behmor along with three green varieties (might get a fourth thanks to the 2.5 with the roaster).

Plus I have a manual roaster coming, so I'll be able to compare the two and learn from both ( or get really confused )

[lemoo]

you're on to a great start amellor!

i know that feeling when you've placed an order and cant wait for new toys to arrive
most important thing to note is if you are doing research, don't over do it

over thinking it will make the process less enjoyable i feel. best to plug the roaster in, load the beans and roast away!
that's probably the reason why Andy provides 2.5kg of beans with all roasters sold

experiment, experiment, experiment!
if you have any questions feel free to shoot me a pm and i'll try to help best i can