Corretto BM shutting off

[deco0028 Member Find all posts View Profile Close deco0028]

Hi all
Had been roasting for close to a year with a Breville BB280 Breadmaker and heat gun with great results. That unit had the heat element removed, a purpose built lid with a nozzle for a heat gun and chaff collector and was run on the dough setting for close to 22 minutes, so ample time to complete a roast.
That unit develops issues with the touchpad, so I bought another used unit, the exact same model.

With this unit, I was able to roast the first batch with no problems. The heating element was still in place, but it supposedly does not go on with the dough cycle.
The second and third batches were a problem, as the BM started beeping, then shut off, around the 15:30 mark and around the start of first crack. Both times, the automatic shut off occurred around the same time.
My question is, is there a thermostat that senses the temperature transmitted through the heating element as too high, thus activating an automatic shut down of the cycle?

I later ran the unit without any beans or heat gun applied, and the cycle went on till the 23 minute mark, then stopped for a couple of minutes before starting again.

The unit is the same as the BBM100 that still sells at the moment.

I am beginning to wonder if the KKTO method with an externally driven motor, and a heat gun for heat may be the way to go, but as I am used to the corretto, I would like to explore the reason behind the BM shutting off.

Thanks for your help.

[Javaphile Super Moderator Find all posts View Profile Close Javaphile]

Sounds like the over temperature protection is kicking in. 'Tis why many bypass the entire control system and simply wire in an on/off switch to the motor. Either that or they bypass the temperature sensor.


Java "Electronics are so much fun!" phile

[deco0028 Member Find all posts View Profile Close deco0028]

Hi Javaphile
Thanks for the reply. I am getting an electrician friend to do that for me.
Though the KKTO with HG method also has its appeal, notably because the batch size should be able to be larger, from what I have read.
The externally mounted motor should be more reliable with less exposure to heat.
We shall see.
Thanks again.

[bcspark Member Find all posts View Profile Close bcspark]

I modded my BM to run continuously by removing all boards adding 50mf capacitor to motor windings and inline cord switch for on off ,performs a treat.

[deco0028 Member Find all posts View Profile Close deco0028]

I modded my BM to run continuously by removing all boards adding 50mf capacitor to motor windings and inline cord switch for on off ,performs a treat.

Hi Bcspark
Is that a 50uF (microFarad) capacitor?
Thanks
Rob

[Dimal Mal Find all posts View Profile Close Dimal]

I modded my BM to run continuously by removing all boards adding 50mf capacitor to motor windings and inline cord switch for on off ,performs a treat.

G'day "bcspark"....

Is this capacitor switched out of circuit after the motor has run up to speed?
The reason I ask, is because capacitors of this value are normally only rated for short duration operation, while the Rotor winds up to synchronous speed. If left in circuit for more than a short time, they will eventually overheat and fail...

Mal.

[bcspark Member Find all posts View Profile Close bcspark]

Capacitor was provided by my motor repairer and is permanently wired into circuit ,cost was $50 and needs to be in circuit to create second phase for starting and power.With no control board there is no switch to isolate starter windings. Barry

[Dimal Mal Find all posts View Profile Close Dimal]

Yep...

Fully understand the theory and design behind electric motors (retired electrical engineer) but notwithstanding what you have said, a 50μF capacitor is large for one that is 'in circuit' continually, and is usually the preserve of Start Only units, that are switched out after the motor has run up to speed. I'd still keep an eye on it as I believe that it may run quite hot...

Mal.

[deco0028 Member Find all posts View Profile Close deco0028]

Yep...

Fully understand the theory and design behind electric motors (retired electrical engineer) but notwithstanding what you have said, a 50μF capacitor is large for one that is 'in circuit' continually, and is usually the preserve of Start Only units, that are switched out after the motor has run up to speed. I'd still keep an eye on it as I believe that it may run quite hot...

Mal.

Hi
Now I am really lost!
Hope my electrician friend knows what he is doing with the BM.
That is why I am considering a move to the KKTO setup, except with a heat gun and an extremely well insulated steamer/pot combination.
Saw the few pictures DBC sent for his BM re-wire, which should help.
I suppose I could power the BM with an external 12V motor which should take care of things. I am picking 2 window wiper motors tomorrow, and could use one for the BM, and the other for the KKTO
Cheers

[Dimal Mal Find all posts View Profile Close Dimal]

G'day "deco0028"....

The original capacitor for the motor in your BM should have some identification info printed on it somewhere. If you are unable to re-use this capacitor, then buy a replacement unit based on the info from the original unit - Or rather, your sparky should be doing this....

Mal.

[deco0028 Member Find all posts View Profile Close deco0028]

G'day "deco0028"....

The original capacitor for the motor in your BM should have some identification info printed on it somewhere. If you are unable to re-use this capacitor, then buy a replacement unit based on the info from the original unit - Or rather, your sparky should be doing this....

Mal.

Thanks, Mal.
After losing 2 roasts last week due to BM shutdowns, I am considering a backup. And the back up does not include roasted beans from Coles or Woolies...
HG combined with KKTO setup sounds like it is worth a go.
Cheers
Rob

[DesigningByCoffee Life-long Learner Find all posts View Profile Close DesigningByCoffee]

Hi rob
Don't give up!
There is a little 'loop' that comes into the bm lining from the board and from memory ends in a little metal tab - this is the cutout sensor. If you unscrew this from the metal lining, tape it up and tuck it back under the control board end you should stop the cutouts - mine worked faultlessly for 18 months before I hard wired it [emoji3]
Matt

[DesigningByCoffee Life-long Learner Find all posts View Profile Close DesigningByCoffee]

Also - insulating the pan helps too - keeps the heat away from the bm unit.

[deco0028 Member Find all posts View Profile Close deco0028]

Hi rob
Don't give up!
There is a little 'loop' that comes into the bm lining from the board and from memory ends in a little metal tab - this is the cutout sensor. If you unscrew this from the metal lining, tape it up and tuck it back under the control board end you should stop the cutouts - mine worked faultlessly for 18 months before I hard wired it [emoji3]
Matt

Hi Matt
Thanks, I think the tab you are referring to may have been part of the heating element, which had been removed on the previous BM and that unit worked well without hardwiring. I have removed the heating element and placed a connector on it, and have tucked it away. Having an electrician hardwire it for me. I have also picked up a pair of power window motors which can be used for either powering the BM and bypassing the 240V, or a KKTO hybrid. My father in law is really good with metal, and I am considering a KKTO with chaff collector and dual heat gun source to enable larger batches for roasting. The agitator will be the challenge, but I may just buy KK's design and call it a day.
And thanks for the pictures of your rewiring of the BM, they should help.
Cheers
Rob