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readeral's KKTO

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  • adifoto
    replied
    It comes together quite nice.
    Thanks for the photos.
    Adi

    Leave a comment:


  • readeral
    replied
    Here's the agitator wire inserted with the holding plate attached (backwards - so it would still hold the wire but not get in the way of bending the wire. This cup was my guide for getting the curve correct
    Click image for larger version

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    The finished bent wire agitator. Not perfect, but good enough.
    Click image for larger version

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    The finished bent wire agitator from another angle. I will probably trim off the excess wire at the top, and will probably bend the bottom wire back on itself and attach a metal spring for a bit more heft to move the beans around at the bottom.
    Click image for larger version

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    So what's next?
    At the moment I have to make some adjustments to the aluminium false floor that I have, and then I will be using the gasket maker to seal it in place at the correct depth, with gaskets made for the drive shaft on the external pot (reduce that 18mm hole) and the aluminium false floor (in my instance, 16mm hole)

    After that, I'll need to build a platform for the pots to sit on (and some centring posts) as my drive shaft protrudes by 46mm. I'm planning to sandwich 3 sheets of MDF together, and the motor provided by KK will be attached to the bottom of this MDF.

    I'll then likely put some castor wheels or legs on the bottom.

    Updates as it moves forward!

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  • readeral
    replied
    This is the drilled insert with the drive shaft fitted, one washer between the drive shaft collar and the insert
    Click image for larger version

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    This is the shaft from the inside, another washer between the holding plate and the insert
    Click image for larger version

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    This is the wire that will be agitating the beans - it's been marked to correct length so that the wire can be bent at 90 degrees to insert into the drive shaft.
    Click image for larger version

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    Here's the bent wire:
    Click image for larger version

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    Here's one of the wires inserted before the holding plate is put on:
    Click image for larger version

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  • readeral
    started a topic readeral's KKTO

    readeral's KKTO

    N.B. This is a design entirely developed by Koffee_Kosmo, merely partially implemented by me.

    With much thanks for help from KK and prompting from nikko, here's a new thread for my new KKTO build I've been putting together.

    As my frankenpopper has been a fun experiment, but no where near consistent enough for my needs - the KKTO was a necessity for keeping up the newly formed home coffee habit!

    I managed to score the correct pot set (Metal handled Arcosteel) on scumtree for $30 and so it all started.

    KK sent me a purpose-manufactured motor, drive shaft and washers, agitator materials, insulation and false floor.

    I purchased from fleabay some hi-temp hosing, a DMD and thermocouple.

    Still to get is the TO itself (hopefully it'll come back into ALDI, otherwise I'll get a Kmart one, they're the same), a power 12v 2.5A power supply for the motor, a silicone gasket maker, and materials for the pot platform.

    What follows are some pictures of the build so far.

    This is the pot set recommended for a 'standard build':
    Click image for larger version

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    This is the fitted silicone. Note that the top tube (green) has been split carefully down the middle to sit over the lip. The bottom tubing has been attached with a 2mm tube connector from Bunnings (I had to trim the connector down to make it sit flush against the pot as it's square). It sits above the small lip, and will fill the gap made between the two pots when they're put together.
    Click image for larger version

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    This is a photo of the black tube filling the gap between the pots. I will later use some silicone gasket maker to hold it firmly in position.
    Click image for larger version

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    I had to drill my own pots, so I used the following method to find the centre, as I wasn't willing to trust the rings on the pot itself. Note the lines drawn to intersect the pot edge at two points. I then found the centre of this line and drew a perpendicular line across and through the centre of the pot. I did this 3 times and approximated the meeting point. It was very slightly different to the lines already on the pot.
    Click image for larger version

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    This is the resulting drilled hole. 18mm in diameter, which is good as the hole ended up having drifted 1mm off centre once we'd finished.
    Click image for larger version

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    The insert was also drilled at 14mm, but we just had to go with the already present drainage holes as our drilling guide.

    More to come...
    Last edited by readeral; 13 September 2015, 03:15 PM.
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