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BEHMOR AB - All Black - 2020SR PLUS (AU)

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  • Wow Andy that's incredible service. Thank you! I've got a job for one of my sons.
    I'll vote for you if you want to stand for premier of Victoria

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    • As I said above this new model will mean I've gone through every model. I've also tried most of the available profiles particularly, 400P1 auto, 400P2B hitting P3C on FC and 400P5 hitting P3C on FC. Try and avoid SC or just before. P5 gets me to FC quicker and I've never had to extend time with P5 but in terms of taste it really varies. Sometimes a Peru, for example, tastes better on P5 and sometimes on P2B with the same amount of degas days. I'm also a set and forget type of guy and I'm trying to settle on one profile for 90% to 95% of the time

      I know this is a "how long is a piece of string" question but what is a good set and forget routine? Is it 400P2B and then P3C on FC? This seems common on reading many of the posts.
      Anything wrong, taste wise, with the quicker P5 and then P3C on FC letting it run to auto cool, provided I don't hear SC? I know some start at P1/P2 then to P5 and back to P3C

      Comment


      • Barry O'Speedwagon
        Barry O'Speedwagon commented
        Editing a comment
        I typically use either of the two broad approaches that you describe above (though after 1 minute of using 50% power, I drop to 25% power in warmer months). For some beans (e.g. Ethiopia Shakiso, Yemen) I use a more gradual profile. I start on 400P4D (which sets the timer at 23.00), and 5 or so minutes into the roast hit P5 (100% manual), then proceed as above upon first crack.

    • Thanks Barry, I was hoping you were going to reply. Do you ever start at P5 and stay there till FC?

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      • Barry O'Speedwagon
        Barry O'Speedwagon commented
        Editing a comment
        Yep. Definitely, particularly for Central Americans (beans, not humans). I also did this for the Cuba Turquino that I'm currently drinking and really love it.

        The weather affects my approach a little, though normally that is largely by dropping the weight. However, at this time of year I might be roasting in temperatures of around 3-4 degrees C if I'm unlucky, and in those cases I don't drop the power to 25%....just leave it at 50% or even 75% after first crack.

    • Originally posted by Andy View Post
      PROBLEM SOLVED Someone in the factory have managed to get the two fans mixed up but they were very consistent as it's every single roaster in the Australian build. I spent the night doing temperature graphing with two HeatSnobs and everything was pointing at the exhaust air speed. Even used a box of matches to prove to myself the prototype and our new roaster were blowing totally different amounts of air during the roast. Anyway, with some more digging and graphing and it became obvious. When the afterburner came on the scroll fan came on and it shouldn't do that until the cooling cycle. So our roasters are cooling and heating at the same time which results in not enough heat to get to 1st crack properly and too much heat on the side wall of the chamber. SOLUTION Simply swap two wires and it will work as it should. Click image for larger version  Name:	2020SR-ScrollFan-DrawFan-WRONG.jpg Views:	119 Size:	64.7 KB ID:	833044 Click image for larger version  Name:	2020SR-ScrollFan-DrawFan-CORRECT.jpg Views:	117 Size:	60.2 KB ID:	833041 DIRECTIONS
      • UNPLUG THE ROASTER (do I really have to say that?)
      • Remove the 5 phillips head screws on the side cover.
      • Remove the 1 torx screw on the bottom middle
      • Cover slides to the front, and then off to the side
      • The side cover fan is connected to the circuit board, you can unplug it or just be careful not to break the wires.
      • Swap the SCROLL FAN and DRAW FAN wires to suit the CORRECT image.
      • Put it back together and happily roast for years to come.
      Click image for larger version  Name:	2020SR-SideCircuitBoard.jpg Views:	124 Size:	85.6 KB ID:	833043 TIPS 'N TRICKS The Torx bit is a pain if you don't own Torx bits but you might find you can undo it with a small flat screwdriver. (I can only guess that this Torx bit appeared again as an EU requirement to make it a pain to work on) The spade clips on the circuit board are LOCKING clips. You need to depress a tab that is hidden under the shrink-wrap before it slides off. Pressing with your thumbnail or pointy nosed pliers work. See image below. Click image for larger version  Name:	LockingSpade.jpg Views:	127 Size:	12.2 KB ID:	833045 Click image for larger version  Name:	LockingPin-naked.jpg Views:	267 Size:	38.9 KB ID:	833068 (Click any of the images for a larger version) If you get stuck let me know in this thread or if you are shy via CONTACT US HAPPY ROASTING EVERYONE Oh, and obviously, all the roasters that leave the Snobbery from now on will have this already done.
      Thanks, Andy. My new Behmor arrived today. And I did all the necessary fixes. Switched to danish plug type. Switched the fans as you described. So getting closer to the first roast ?

      Comment


      • lhammer1000 Was your roaster shipped before or after that post by Andy? If it shipped after that post the wires were already swapped and you didn't need to move them.


        Java "Check carefully!" phile
        Toys! I must have new toys!!!

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        • @javaphile, it was sent before, so the fix was needed. Andy mailed me to notify me about the problem. Andy sent it on June 22nd, so it took a while to get here. But it's definitely worth the wait. I needed to change the plug as well. I did my first roast and it is working perfectly well. Thanks

          Comment




          • #105.1

            Andy commented
            3 days ago
            @barri
            Your new roaster has already shipped (just snuck into today's monster freight pile).
            We also found a slightly second-hand afterburner (was only used for testing) that we tossed into the carton. See if you can find a local "volunteer from the audience" to give you a hand getting it into the old roaster.



            Arrived today and installed that afterburner and it actually worked. Many thanks !!!! Excellent service as usual. Did a roast (Sulawesi) with the old Behmor and it worked perfectly.
            As for the new AB model I knew it bipped when the unattended section started but was pleasantly surprised that it also bipped 15 seconds before automatic cooling starts. This is a great feature as I've often had the cooling cycle start at an unwanted time. Did the same roast on the AB and it was clearly an improvement in terms of colour and evenness.


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            • Hi Guys , quick question, i have been using my Behmor 1600 for a while now , I am not very adventurous with the profiles ( i am sure i should be, but that's a conversation for another day) I consistently use 400g P2 C profile , then C at First Crack, with some manual time adjustment depending on ambient conditions etc I am always happy with the output.
              I am about to order the new model - can I just pick up where I left off with my go to settings? Thanks for the assistance

              Comment


              • Andy
                Andy commented
                Editing a comment
                Yes, should be nearly the same as your 5 year old 1600 Plus. The naming of the roasters is tricky and a tad confusing.
                1600 was the original.
                1600 plus had the new software and manual over-rides.
                2020SR which is the AU voltage "All Black" has the same profiles and manual over-rides.

                So yeah, you should hit the ground running with what you had previously learnt and loved.

            • Thanks mate! Just ordered a new one!

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              • Andy
                Andy commented
                Editing a comment
                That will ship out on Monday (we don't ship anything on Friday's) and you should have it before next weekend.
                Happy roasting!

              • WantRancilio10
                WantRancilio10 commented
                Editing a comment
                Just out of interest... why did you decide to buy a new one when you’re happy with the old?

            • I was moving house and....................well......... i may have dropped it onto a concrete floor and apparently they don't bounce !!!!!! So I gave it to my mate for spares

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              • Hi all. I have been roasting on 2 iCoffee Roasters (the little wood panelled Korean roaster that was popular a few years ago) and one of them has bitten the dust. The other still works fine but means I can only roast 150-200g at once, which is annoyingly slow. I have three questions about upgrading to a Behmor AB:

                1. What's the maximum bean capacity for this roaster? Does it actually work well at that capacity or do you get better results with smaller batches?
                2. At max capacity, roughly how long are we talking to get to second crack?
                3. Do you dump the beans at the end of the cycle? (I have two bean cooler fans just want to know if they will still be of use.)

                Thanks!

                Comment


                • 1. I've heard of 500gms but 350 to 400gms works well
                  2.About 12 to 16 min to FC then another 3 or 4 to SC but this can vary greatly depending on bean and type of profile/program. Total time including cooling roughly 30 minutes
                  3.I Just place them in a stainless bowl for about 10 minutes before putting them in a one way valve bag or storage container.with a one way valve You can speed up cooling by opening the door during the cooling cycle but I only open the door if I've hit SC. I like to keep it to just under SC before cooling starts.
                  I hope that helps!

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by LionelHutz View Post
                    Hi all. I have been roasting on 2 iCoffee Roasters (the little wood panelled Korean roaster that was popular a few years ago) and one of them has bitten the dust. The other still works fine but means I can only roast 150-200g at once, which is annoyingly slow. I have three questions about upgrading to a Behmor AB: 1. What's the maximum bean capacity for this roaster? Does it actually work well at that capacity or do you get better results with smaller batches? 2. At max capacity, roughly how long are we talking to get to second crack? 3. Do you dump the beans at the end of the cycle? (I have two bean cooler fans just want to know if they will still be of use.) Thanks!
                    Hi Lionel, I have been roasting on a Behmor for years and love it, I roast exclusively in manual, responses below: 1. I have roasted up to 400g with good results. My standard batch size is 300g as I find it gets better results, whilst also works well with our weekly consumption (~600g a week). 2. To 2nd is a difficult metric for me as I don’t often roast into 2nd, plus how much temp do you pull out at 1st to reach desired RDT ect. As an idea, I can hit first crack in sub 9min on some beans/profiles, with a 20% RDT I will be cooling around 11 min with the first few crack of 2nd popping in the cooler. On the other hand, different beans/profiles I might cool at 17 min, so plenty of heat available for what I need it to do. 3. In the early days I cooled in the roaster, it does work, but I did find an improvement when I moved to external bean coolers. If you already have 2, bonus! Hope that helps.

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                    • Thanks all. I have ordered one. Just flicking through the manual I found online and I have two more questions:

                      1. It says to leave the machine for one hour between roasts. Can I ignore this? The whole reason I am buying a larger capacity roaster is to get through my roasting quicker.

                      2. It says not to take beans more than 10 seconds into second crack. Can I ignore this? I don't usually go much beyond second crack anyway, but sometimes I feel like trying a darker roast and would like to know I have the option.

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