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  • level3ninja
    replied
    Here's a before and after. Soon to be on their way to their new owners.
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    Last edited by level3ninja; 22nd March 2020, 09:28 AM.

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  • level3ninja
    replied
    Not if it's stainless

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  • TheProspector
    replied
    Would you be able to drill it out if I got the PF to you?

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  • level3ninja
    replied
    Breville sell them. The way the handle attached isn't an issue, the naked one I have looks like they've taken a regular one and machined it out. The issue is that it's made from SS rather than brass.

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  • TheProspector
    replied
    Has anyone tried converting a PF for a BES900? Just worried that the way the handle atatches to the bottom as well as the side might couse some difficulties...Thanks!

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1tin...ew?usp=sharing

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  • coolie21
    replied
    Originally posted by level3ninja View Post
    If you pay postage both ways I'm happy to do it. Otherwise I use a 57mm holesaw and then use a small 60grit flapwheel (Josco 40mm 60 Grit Abrasive Flap Wheel) in the drill to remove the small lip remaining, then a small 120grit flapwheel (Josco 40mm 120 Grit Abrasive Flap Wheel) to make it prettier.
    Thanks for the info! I'll think about the offer, but I might make it a xmas holiday project

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  • level3ninja
    replied
    If you pay postage both ways I'm happy to do it. Otherwise I use a 57mm holesaw and then use a small 60grit flapwheel (Josco 40mm 60 Grit Abrasive Flap Wheel) in the drill to remove the small lip remaining, then a small 120grit flapwheel (Josco 40mm 120 Grit Abrasive Flap Wheel) to make it prettier.

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  • coolie21
    replied
    I bought a new shiny portafilter for my recently acquired second hand office control as the old one had lost most of its chrome, so I now have a brass 58mm portafilter to play with. Could anyone advise which size holesaw to buy (58mm? Smaller?) Or is anyone still offering to drill the hole (I’m in brisbane)

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  • kaephas
    replied
    Originally posted by tmb99 View Post
    As rocket machine came with two portafilters I decided to make one naked as I had all the tools here already. I put "metal mend" in the spout to keep the drill centred and stop movement - however most likely planned it out much more than needed seeing as someone said they did it hand held!

    Drilled - slow and hard with cutting fluid. Took about 20 seconds.


    After a quick sand - didn't bother cleaning too much, just got rid of sharp edges.


    Also willing to help others free of cost. Brisbane, Hamilton area.
    Are you still able and willing to do this? Thanks

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  • FilthySudo
    replied
    Old thread but thought I'd post anyways. Really wanting to do the naked mod on my portafilter but have a feeling mine is a newer stainless one and have read that it's alot harder to do the mod on! Does anyone know when I can pick up a cheap brass one? I've tried having a look on gumtree and ebay and not too much Luck. Hoping someone knows someone with one or if other sunbeam models fit the 6910 so I can get my hands on one! Cheers

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  • TampIt
    replied
    Having done both the earlier 6910s in brass, then stainless and then done one 7000 in stainless, the 7000 is a lot thicker and much harder to do with a holesaw. It also has a ridge that gets in the way. A good lathe is so much easier for the 7000. Be aware that you will still need a lot of cutting fluid to keep the temperature down or the 7000 one will discolour and probably weaken. The 7000 p/f was a bit of a PITA for me, and I have done quite a few p/fs over the years.

    With hindsight, I would suggest you find a coffee repair guy and find / beg / buy the older brass 6910 p/fs if you have a 7000 (often from free to $20 over here). Another advantage - the stainless takes a lot longer to heat compared to the brass ones. Making it a naked means it never touches the grouphead water, so it takes longer again for the stainless one to heat through. Rough timings from stone cold - about 90 seconds for the SB machines to warm up. One quick preinfusion plus a couple of seconds of "coffeeless shot" and about 15 seconds delay and the brass is ready to fire. The stainless takes a complete single "coffeeless shot" and about 3 (6910 stainless) to 5 minutes (7000 stainless) to get up to temp.

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  • Lyrebird
    replied
    Originally posted by level3ninja View Post
    Overheating the stainless seriously weakens it.
    Yes, if it was hardened originally but that seems unlikely in a portafilter.

    The grades of stainless commonly used in food processing aren't hardenable by heat treatment. The portafilters appear to be castings so they're not strain hardened either.
    Last edited by Lyrebird; 1st July 2018, 05:41 PM.

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  • level3ninja
    replied
    Originally posted by Lyrebird View Post
    It's not the heat that makes stainless difficult to cut it's the fact that it work hardens under the tool. You need to undercut the work hardening.

    Use a drill press, go as slow as possible and use lots of lube (always use lots of lube).

    Start the drill and press down so hard that it slows down, try to keep this slower speed. If it stalls, back off and start again. If it speeds up, back off and start again.

    When the tool gets hot, stop for a while and cool it down. Don't dunk the workpiece in water, it's a waste of lube.
    I never said it made it difficult to cut. Overheating the stainless seriously weakens it. The difficulty is retaining the patience to get it all done to a good finish while never overheating any part of it. Coolant is more important than lube in this instance.

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  • Lyrebird
    replied
    It's not the heat that makes stainless difficult to cut it's the fact that it work hardens under the tool. You need to undercut the work hardening.

    Use a drill press, go as slow as possible and use lots of lube (always use lots of lube).

    Start the drill and press down so hard that it slows down, try to keep this slower speed. If it stalls, back off and start again. If it speeds up, back off and start again.

    When the tool gets hot, stop for a while and cool it down. Don't dunk the workpiece in water, it's a waste of lube.

    Leave a comment:


  • Mb21
    replied
    Hi Pat
    level3ninja is spot on (super write up for anyone wanting a guide with a brass portafilter!) but I’d say save yourself the hours of pain and after you take the spouts off find a local metal work/ machine shop with a lathe that’s happy to do it. They will make a much neater job of if the cut out and it should only need a tiny deburring with a file to taken of the burrs and sharp edge left.
    Enjoy getting naked.

    Leave a comment:

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