Here is the outside view of her :)
This forum rocks AM helped me sort out my issue with my EM6910 a few weeks ago:
But now I have just bought myself a 3 year old La Cimbali Junior grinder!
So Im wrapped but I dont think it has ever been cleaned and the thing is absolutely filthy *;D
I want to restore it to its former glory, and need any tips/warnings for *taking her apart.
Here is a pic of the chute into the grinder. *:o
Here is the outside view of her :)
Thanks LL for those kind words...Originally Posted by 6C706772696D6573000 link=1281440423/0#0 date=1281440423
I love that short hopper :-* But not sure about teh knock box on teh cup tray :-/ :-/
As per any rebuild...
A: Search and use Google
B: Look for reviews
C: Take pics - lots of them
D: Take it slow
E: Clean and get rid of the crap and dirt...
Then you have a place to start from...
From there I would suggest you may not need much other than a set of new burrs... Coffeeparts = Over there to teh left.
Considering what ya did with teh Sunbeam; this should be like a Sunday walk in teh park ;)
Gday LL... [smiley=laugh.gif]
Given all the usual Caveats, these are an excellent grinder with a strong following here at CoffeeSnobs. Im sure other owners/restorers will chime in with their experiences and suggestions...
All the best :)
Haha thanks AM, I just ended up sticking the Knock box on top of the sunbeam when moving things around on the bench. Would never "use" it there ;D
Will post some more pics and info when I get a chance to tear it down. ;)
Ill check out coffeeparts to see how much the burrs will set me back. :o
Hey I had a look and are these the ones I would need?
700102 - Cimbali DRM - DX Right - 64ext mm - 37Int mm - 9 Thick mm - 3holes - $47.50
It seems this is for both burrs, not a bad price i reckon.
I am having the same problems as with Sunbeam, in that I am not sure how this thing is meant to operate, so have a few questions.
The grind adjustment nob is very hard to turn, and there is some play when you change directions, like the nob will slip a little when turning the opposite way then will catch and move the scales.
In regards to the doser, is the lever meant to be spring loaded so that when you flick it to release a dose, the lever swings back? Because mine doesnt. I have to flick it forward and then flick the lever back?
What do the numbers on the meter at the bottom left of the doser mean? Dont have a pic of it, but my meter reads 7999.
Lastly here is a pic of the grind nob with the grind scales setting, is this normal?
Thanks guys, appreciate it. :)
Google and read first.. Read the full article that is linked; but here is a link about 4 pages in..Originally Posted by 24382F3A21252D3B480 link=1281440423/5#5 date=1281489379
Then ask for more detail...
All levers should be spring loaded = must be brok ;D
Numbers could mean doses - counts when teh lever is pulled :-/
Grind know = Read the review :-X
Be careful, I have had 2 of these grinders. One had 64mm the other 63.5mm. When I pushed the 64mm into the 63.5mm it broke one of the three sweeping prongs.Originally Posted by 766A7D6873777F691A0 link=1281440423/5#5 date=1281489379
It is harder to move than most grinders. The grease on the turning mech maybe old, gone, dirty. Lube it up when you take off the top part. Ill try to take some pics tonight.Originally Posted by 766A7D6873777F691A0 link=1281440423/5#5 date=1281489379
And yes both of mine had a little slip, about 1/4 turn.
Yes it should flick back on its own. Spring could be broken or come loose. Or the mech needs lube.Originally Posted by 766A7D6873777F691A0 link=1281440423/5#5 date=1281489379
That is the dose counter. Every time you pull the dosing lever it should click once. Useless for home.Originally Posted by 766A7D6873777F691A0 link=1281440423/5#5 date=1281489379
The number is just that, a number.Originally Posted by 766A7D6873777F691A0 link=1281440423/5#5 date=1281489379
When you get to pull the top off you will see that there are 3 screws holding down the dial so it could be out by 1/3. But it doesnt matter.
Thanks AM and Bassway, that answers alot of questions. I will have make sure i measure the burrs before i order any *;)
It spent the last 6 months of its life in a fish a chips shop! *:o
So I am sure everything is gummed up pretty good, so I think your right in that it will probably require re-greasing, which i will do when I completely strip it down.
Also I couldnt find any bearing on coffeeparts, anyone know where to buy new bearings for these? I am gathering i will need to replace them too.
Thanks again guys
I have been in contact with a few places about replacement burrs. some are charging $120 for authentic ones, and other online shops are only charging $55.
Has anyone here purchased aftermarket burrs for the cimbali junior and if so have you been happy with them?
Cant comment on the burrs for the cimbali junior however bought two sets of after market burrs for the Rocky while I had it, the original burrs lasted 7 years, first set of AM lasted less than 6 months, second set about the same, so bought a set of genuine Rancilio burrs from Jetblack Espresso and they were still going strong 12 months later when I sold it.Originally Posted by 3F2334213A3E3620530 link=1281440423/9#9 date=1281578312
I know others will say they all come from the same couple of factories but I can assure you there is a difference.
Genuine for me every time. ;)
Wow seven years!
Yeah that is what one of the online retailers said, that they come from similar factories.
My grinder is meant to only be 3 years old, but it was used in a cafe.
I might post some pics later in the week of the burrs to see if you guys think they need replacing before i go out and buy any more. ;D
A pic will show little... do the finger nail test - search and read.... *like a knife blade, you can get a feel for it. *Originally Posted by 223E293C27232B3D4E0 link=1281440423/11#11 date=1281584036
Blunt is just that .... like a fat butter knife edge = blunt
Dull is passable but a warning that on the way...
Scratchy = Sharp *;D
Been taking the Junior apart.
Here is a picture of the inside with the sheet metal removed.
I saw the inside of another grinder with the inside removed from 2006 and it was totally different. Do any of you have a 3 - 4 year old Junior that looks like this, I am thinking mine may be older...?
Also the doser handle is just metal, there is no plastic sheith over it, is my one missing a part. Will post a pick later
Also here is the underside of the doser. I think it is meant to have a spring inside it, but i dont know where it would go.
Also dont think that snapped bit of wire connecting to the dose meter is original. Could someone please post a pic of their junior doser compartment so i can see how it is meant to look, and what parts to source. Much appreciated. :)
Here is a pic of the dosor handle/arm. I think its meant to have a plastic sheith, but not sure.
Oh and AM yeah the blades are blunt, so i am just trying to get her all cleaned up and then will purchase some when new funds come in ;D
Still deciding on the online retailer for $55 versus the genuine $120 burrs though.... hmm
Thanks again for all your help guys
just had a glance into this thread. There is some conflicting information out there on this grinder and some confusion about models be it Cimbali MAX, Cimbali Junior, Cimbali DRM or otherwise I think some web threads get off track and maybe miss name them. So measuring the burrs is important.
I will try and take a shot of the bottom of the doser on one of my DRM Cimbalis as your doser looks the same from what I remember of the underside. Just checked there is one on the linked thread. :)
Be careful lifting the slinger from the grinding chamber if it is brass as the clearance is important to keep it sweeping so dont overdo the force thing.
Here might be useful in the meantime http://coffeesnobs.com.au/YaBB.pl?num=1222432676
That helps alot. Yeah my grinder is a Junior as it has the flat burrs and looks just like the max but with a shorter hopper.
I am assuming they use the same parts in the hopper?
So will be interesting to see how yours looks.
How did you take the dosing vanes off for cleaning, do you undo the nut at the bottom of the doser chamber and lift them out the top?
I have never undone the nut at the bottom of the doser as I could see bits going SPRONG. Undoing the doser adjustment knob from the chamber allows the removal of the spider etc. It is a bit awkward to do but that is how I went about it.
The spring that is broken on yours from memory is just connected to the shot counter (just take it off not needed). You are missing the spring for the doser lever which is visible in the shots on my thread. Also yes there is a plastic sheath over the doser lever. For spares maybe try Aroma coffee in Sydney as they had a heap sold on the Bay of Evil.
My restoration is coming along slowly but nicely.
Top Burr fitting before clean
Top Burr fitting after clean. I soaked it a warm citric acid solution for about 30mins, then cleaned off what i could. then repeated process and it came up great!
The dosor with bits removed, thanks to "Beanflying". Thats what i will be cleaning next, the plastic surround.
Here is the state of my kitchen benchtop. Covered in cleaned cimbali bits. Dora and alot of toothpicks helped alot in cleaning the threads*;D
Here i have a problem.
I was going to leave the bottom burr alone until i could get a new burr set but, I have noticed extensive coffee buildup on the side of the spinning bottom burr.
I tried to undoing the burr screws but they are in so tight i cant unscrew them without the burr turning. So I am thinking of undoing the nut to remove the burr seat, to remove burr and "maybe" replacing the bearings while i am at it. *
1. does anyone has a pic/description of where the bearings are located and,
2. How do you get the nut off (in pic below)? Do i need something to hold the pole connected under it? *:-?
3. Do you guys recommend greasing the threads? A friend was recommending a food grade oil/lubricant instead of grease as he said it would attracts grinds. *:o
Thanks guys *;)
No grease plenty of coffee oils floating around to stick stuff to without helping !!!!!!!!!
That bolt is actually reverse threaded so if you are trtying it normally it just aint going to work ;) You will also find a crud buildup between the brass and the lower burr and dont lose the drive pin from the shaft when you get it apart.
Bearings are a standard 6000 series one so any industrial place should be able to help out. To remove them a soft faced hammer and a good bearing puller is really needed. Also a pair of right angled internal circlip pliers. In an ideal world a small hydraulic press for reassembly.
For putting on the new bearings I made do with placing the whole rotor of the motor (armature) in the freezer to shrink the steel shaft just a touch and the bearings just needed a light tap on. Make sure it is properly dry before reassembly of the motor and firing it back up. Also watch out for the wave washer sitting under the bearing.
Hmm replacing bearings sounds a bit more involved than I thought... I might give it a miss unless im feeling brave. It is meant to only be 3 years old... Do you think they would need replacing?
Also if i just undo that bolt to remove the brass assembly do i need to worry about much, and what did you do to stop the whole assembly spinning whilst you undid the bolt?
Thanks mate, really appreciate the advice ;)
I replaced bearings in both of my DRMs 6 months ago as one of them was fairly noisy so until you can hear a rumble or have excessive end play with no beans I wouldnt worry to much. To stop the rotor from turning I made a specially "calibrated stick" to lock the vanes on the brass slinger and sit as far in as it could go (less risk of bending the vanes :( ) Attach socket to bolt and give it a couple of short sharp whacks with a hammer if needed.
If you can get the couple of tools for a bearing change and you are stripped this far down I would do it for the sake of the few $$ worth of bearings. Or Find a mate you does his own engine work or even a guy with a backyard lathe they will almost certainly have the gear and a six pack goes a long way for payment ;)
Turned it on with the whole outer assembly removed, and it seemed to have a healthy hum. No rumbling or weird sounds. Only thing was a faint higher pitched whir sound as it powered down. This normal?
Thinking at present to skip the bearings... ;)
I was recently fortunate enough to get my hands on a second hand jr grinder also. I havent yet pulled it to pieces but stripped it down enough to clean out the gunk. The whirring sound you mention - not sure if its the same but mine grinds away nicely and when the beans are almost gone the frequency of the whirring increases and you can tell that the grinder has just done the last of the grinding.
The sound does change a bit when powering down (at least on the one I have).
Thanks for the info mate, seems like my grinder is normal then.
I will make sure I am a detailed as possible with the rest of the strip down so it comes in handy for ya if you decide to strip yours.
I recommend doing it as the amount of crud I have removed is shocking :o
So how old is your junior?
Would be interesting to see if they are the same ;)