Removing threaded screws out of Rocky help needed
Hi there, my screws are threaded meaning I cannot remove them from rocky to replace the burrs. Can anyone suggest some ways to remove them etc?
Do you mean threaded (which all screws are ), or stripped? If the top of the screw is stripped, sometimes you need an impact driver or similar - but don't know the rocky that well I'm afraid…
But good luck!
Stripped that was the word i was seafching for. Thanks
Is it a flat or philips head screw? Some times leaning onto the screwdriver with your body weight, while putting a spanner onto the handle of the screwdriver to turn it can help to get some extra downforce?
Flat. Im 100kg ex rugby player so brute force is easy. It is stripped badly so weak screws used.... i will take a nail.punch and hammer to tap it into submission.
Sleep is overrated
One trick if ,the outside of head of the screw is reachable, is to use wire cutters.
Place to point of one jaw in the middle of the screw head and grab the outside of the screw head with the other jaw.
If you can get a good grip this way you then carefully turn the screw.
are you referring to the screws retaining the actual burrs, or the screws holding the hopper on ?
Originally Posted by s12raider
assume you are trying to turn them anti clockwise ?
if the heads are stripped, then the way to remove them is with a drill and a stud extractor.
Careful precision work, or you could destroy the grinder !
Burrs and yes very careful
I haven't opened my old rocky to look, but I am guessing from memory the screws are about a 4mm thread..... This doesnt give you a lot of material to work with when drilling and using an 'easy out' exctractor I would recommend first off soaking as best as possible overnight in WD40, or some similar lubricant to try and loosen up. Might even be worth making up a solution of backflush detergant and spraying over the screws, this might help remove coffee oils that have penetrated the thread, and then soaking in WD40. Doubt this will enable you to remove them with a screwdriver, but is worth a shot.
Before you jump into drilling make sure you centre punch the screw in as close to the exact center as possible. This will help when drilling to keep you centred and stop you damaging the threads. When you purchase your 'easy outs' they will have a corresponding drillbit size (most times) to use with them..... I am guessing you will be using the smallest easy outs available.
If money isn't too much of an issue you can purchase left hand drillbits. They can be a godsend when removing bolts, I have been drilling out bolts with them before, and when the end of the drillbit catches it winds the bolt out while drilling, as opposed to standard right hand drillbits that jam the bolt further down when they catch.
Removing bolts/screws is a tedious process, and like everyone has said be very careful and patient.
Any luck now s12? The suspense is killing us... Time for another coffee while we wait
I found the grouphead gasket on my la scala was wrong brand (for a silvia) so messed around with this over weekend. Manged to get 1 screw removed from Rocky and a few bloodied knuckles attempting removal of other screw. Decided to stop for repair to hand and try again this Friday (away with work this week). I am starting to despise the wife's nepresso machine as it mocks me everyday.
I am starting to despise the wife's nepresso machine as it mocks me everyday.[/QUOTE]
I had a laugh but your gear will get the last laugh- at least it will last longer than 2-3 yrs.
Well at least 1 screw down and 1 to go... There is hope
I went through this just over a week ago. Burrs never removed before on a 5+ year old Rocky so I guess the screws had some time to stick fast. A couple of heads stripped very easily - I had a correctly sized screwdriver and it didn't even slip, just stripped. On the lower burr I had held the spindle in place using a 12mm spanner, but no luck. At the end of my first attempt I had 2 screws removed but damaged from the top burr and one stuck but intact; on the bottom I had one removed, one stuck and quite damaged, and one stripped beyond hope.
So I gave the screws I could not remove a good squirt of WD40 (a can with the thin tube insert in the nozzle is accurate enough) and also some other easing oil I bought at Bunnings, and repeated that a couple times leaving a few hours to soak in. With the upper burr you can squirt both ends of the screws. You can also get a thin flat screwdriver or similar and try to scrape out any solid grinds from the heads - the oil helps a bit and you might just have enough depth to remove the screw. With the oil soaking and a lot of pressure, I managed to remove all but the completely stripped screw in the lower burr. So I guess for future reference I'd suggest doing that before bringing a screwdriver anywhere near the screws!
For the remaining screw I took the plunge and hand-drilled the centre of it through. Like the top burr holder that you can inspect, the end of the screw is open to the underside of the holder so you shouldn't drill too deep. Of course you can drill too much off-centre! As luck would have it I managed to drill straight down the centre and cored the screw without damaging the holder thread. A good deal of luck on top of modest drilling skill, I'd say. I started with a 1mm drillbit and moved up to 2.5mm; both right-handed (ie normal). With the screw cored I was able to insert a smaller screwdriver and just managed to get it undone.
If the oil and brute force don't get it done, I'd look into the left-handed drillbit suggestion above. I didn't have one around, but I should have bought one as it can't cost more than the damage I could so nearly have done to the soft brass burr holder!
All's well that ends well in my case. I shortened six 4mm screws with stronger combined philips/flat heads and used those for the new burrs - should be a lot more solid next time.
Hope that helps. Good luck.
Replying to myself ...
Meant to add that one other tactic which I considered but did not try was to heat the area with a heat gun. I figured it could help loosen oils etc and help the easing agent seep in, but I also thought (guessed) that the brass would expand a little more than the screws (depends what the screws are actually made of!). Not too sure why I went ahead with drilling without trying this - in retrospect I could have done more damage than I think likely with some gentle steady heatgun application. Might be worth a try if you don't want to go for the left-hand drill approach.
Also, when I said "shouldn't drill to deep" I mean you won't because it is open - only if you go way beyond into the grind chamber itself do you have to worry about that direction!
A quick tip to all who suffer from this:
Firstly, use an easy out if possible (as mentioned).
If that is not possible for some reason:-
1) Start by using Penetrene if the problem may be partly rust or corrosion. Far more effective for that use than anything else I know of. Use a drop a day for two or three days and almost anything corroded in place will yield eventually. Most extreme: took three weeks of daily Penetrene doses to free the C.Y. O'Connor pipeline valves in 2010 (500km+ Perth to Kalgoorlie water pipeline) after 100+ years of non-use. Guys trying WD40 or CRC365 would still be there...
2) Back to screws: Use the correct size SHARP cold chisel (carefully!) to cut a new slot. Impact screwdriver with a correctly sized flat head tip will then remove it.
Originally Posted by TampIt
If you are doing all this to rotating burr, then you will most likely have to replace the bearings as any impact applied like this, will almost certainly damage the bearing surfaces to the point where early bearing failure is pretty well guaranteed. Thankfully, replacement bearings are not expensive and well worth the effort to install. If you are unable to locate OEM bearings, take the old ones down to a Bearing Centre (or similar) near you and they will be able to fix you up...