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Thread: FAEMA disassembly and rebirth

  1. #1
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    FAEMA disassembly and rebirth

    Gene Cafe Coffee Roaster $850 - Free Beans Free Freight
    I have an old FAEMA grinder that has been kicking around the workshop for a few years and I have decided to strip it down, give it a clean then do some customising. The grinder is quite the brutalist design: a big hunk of cylindrical metal with quite an 80's bull nosed foot. I intend to make a new base as well as new lids and a new smaller bean hopper, a new paint job and maybe new dosing lever.. see how things go.
    So Far I have removed the doser and the top burr carrier and the lower burr but I can't work out how you should loosen the central nut to remove the bottom burr carrier. It would really like to get it out and give it a proper clean but it spins with the motor so I'm not sure how to hold it still so i can undo the central nut (which is on very tightly). Any ideas? there must be a way the professionals do it, I can't be the only one who's needed to get this off.
    I thought about wedging something between the grounds chute and one of the upright arms of the lower burr carrier then using a tube spanner but I'm not sure the brass burr carrier will take the stress. Id hate to break it.

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    heres a pic.
    As with nearly all of these machines the crappy plastic portafilter holder has snapped off. Im looking into new ways to fix a more robust metal holder.
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    Senior Member sprezzatura's Avatar
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    FAEMA disassembly and rebirth

    Pretty sure this is from the Post Modern Organic Cylinder design school made popular by the Brotherhood of the Dark Bean Discipline in Northern Italy.

  4. #4
    Mal Dimal's Avatar
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    Depending on the direction of rotation of the Rotor, you will need to loosen the nut in the same direction to this. If possible and if you have access to a rotary impact driver, this would be the best tool to use for loosening the nut, as short sharp impacts will do a better job than an ever increasing force applied via a hand-tool.
    With regard to locking the Rotor in place while you remove the nut, the handle of a wooden spoon or piece of wooden dowel poked through the discharge orifice to engage one of the coffee discharge arms of the rotating burr assembly.

    Given that you are tearing the entire grinder down, it would also be very prudent to acquire a set of new bearings. These should be easy to identify once removed and available from your nearest specialist bearing service outlet, if you are unable to locate any from the Faema distributors...

    Mal.

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    thanks Mal, i will give it a go and report back. Pretty sure there is no support from FAEMA/Cimbali for a grinder of this vintage. I had tried to get a new portafilter fork for this machine in the past and didn't get a lot of support. Fortunately bearings should be easy to source and coffee parts carry the burr set.

    Just wondering if anyone can see a problem with drilling a hole into the aluminium body to bolt on a portafilter fork. I was just planning on tapping the hole for maybe a 5-8mm bolt. My only thought was to make sure the bolt does not protrude into the motor, but maybe there are other issues?
    Last edited by Aaron; 30th April 2016 at 09:06 AM.

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    Mal Dimal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron View Post
    Just wondering if anyone can see a problem with drilling a hole into the aluminium body to bolt on a portafilter fork. I was just planning on tapping the hole for maybe a 5-8mm bolt. My only thought was to make sure the bolt does not protrude into the motor, but maybe there are other issues?
    Given that you are contemplating an overhaul of sorts, it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to remove the motor too, especially since new bearings are something that should be considered and may be difficult to replace with the motor still inside the grinder casing.

    With the motor removed (and any wiring), you should be able to locate the PF Rest more or less where you want to. When it comes time to determine the length of the screws to use, you'd be best to use a length that doesn't protrude into the motor cavity of the casing when fully tightened, just to be careful...

    Mal.

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    Yes the motor's coming out. I was concerned about any metal swarf falling onto the windings of the motor if i drilled into the casing. Good to know I'm heading in the right direction.
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    Success!!
    Managed to remove the lower burr carrier and found the base to be caked with oils that had solidified and then been polished smooth like glass by the rotation of the part. As t was mothers day that was pretty much all I had time to do before i got told off.
    pictures to come once i get them off the phone.
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    well the success was short lived, I removed the burr carrier and the top bearing cover as well as four socket head allen bolts on the underside and the motor still seems to be stuck fast. I tried a few tentative taps on the top of the spindle but everything seems to be stuck fast inside the housing.
    Here's some photos of the progress so far but I am stumped what to do next.
    Anyone see something I haven't noticed? should I give the spindle a full on whack? I'm just afraid of doing some serious damage to it.
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    One thing I have noticed is the motor has some very slight indents that look like they should correspond to the mounting fins inside the casing. However they are currently not lined up which might be a reason the motor assembly is stuck. If you look at the last photo above at the 11 o clock mark there is the outer mount hole for the base then the inner hole is for some tabs to hold the motor in place then slightly anti clockwise from these holes you can see the indent (just before the white wires). Its not much but it may be enough to allow the motor to slide out with minimal effort.

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    Senior Member sprezzatura's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron View Post
    One thing I have noticed is the motor has some very slight indents that look like they should correspond to the mounting fins inside the casing. However they are currently not lined up which might be a reason the motor assembly is stuck. If you look at the last photo above at the 11 o clock mark there is the outer mount hole for the base then the inner hole is for some tabs to hold the motor in place then slightly anti clockwise from these holes you can see the indent (just before the white wires). Its not much but it may be enough to allow the motor to slide out with minimal effort.
    Some of these grinders have the stator pressed in. It may be challenging to remove it without pressing.
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    so whacking it out by the spindle is not the right way to go?
    Would you need a gear puller or similar?

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    Mal Dimal's Avatar
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    Shouldn't be necessary to remove the stator given that it appears to pressed in as Sprezz' has mentioned.

    You will need to remove the cooling fan from below to gain access to the motor end-plate screws, which should then allow you to remove the lower assembly and then perhaps the rotor as well.

    Always a bit of a guessing game without a decent drawing...

    Mal.

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    OK so pulling off the fan got me to this
    No visible mounting screws or cover plate that I can see, the finned aluminium plate you can see inside the copper windings rotates.
    There is almost no information that I can find about this grinder which i find quite strange given that there seems to be quite a few out there and they are made by such a big company..
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    I was also hoping to disable the auto shut off feature when I took the motor out, as the wires attach to the motor somewhere up in the casing and its impossible to work out where with the motor still installed. It has two wires that end in a micro switch that attaches to a flap in the doser. Is it just a case of permanently joining the two wires that attach to the micro switch and tucking them back inside the case?

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    Senior Member sprezzatura's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron View Post
    I was also hoping to disable the auto shut off feature when I took the motor out, as the wires attach to the motor somewhere up in the casing and its impossible to work out where with the motor still installed. It has two wires that end in a micro switch that attaches to a flap in the doser. Is it just a case of permanently joining the two wires that attach to the micro switch and tucking them back inside the case?
    Yes. Strip them, use a good quality butt connector and heavy-duty heat shrink. A hydraulic press should push the rotor from the top out of the stator. Don't hit it!
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  17. #17
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    Hmmm, nasty....

    Looks like they've gone for a "hung rotor" design. Not the best unfortunately...
    Pressing the whole motor out is your only available option now as Sprezz' suggests. A mechanical workshop somewhere in your neighbourhood should have a hydraulic press, would save you a lot of heartache...

    Mal.
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    Thanks so much for the helpful advice, I really appreciate it.
    just to be clear, a hydraulic press is like the 'H' style press that they use to press bearings in right? if so I'm pretty sure some guys I share a workspace with may have one somewhere. So I'm looking for steady even pressure down onto the top spindle as opposed to sharp blows from a mallet?
    Im thinking I will most likely just leave it all in place and strip the powder coat and give it a respray with the motor in place. I can mask up most of the motor but there are some vent slots in the top that will be impossible to block. Do you foresee any problems with this? Im just worried that if i press the rotor out it may not go back in.

  19. #19
    Senior Member sprezzatura's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron View Post
    Thanks so much for the helpful advice, I really appreciate it.
    just to be clear, a hydraulic press is like the 'H' style press that they use to press bearings in right? if so I'm pretty sure some guys I share a workspace with may have one somewhere. So I'm looking for steady even pressure down onto the top spindle as opposed to sharp blows from a mallet?
    Im thinking I will most likely just leave it all in place and strip the powder coat and give it a respray with the motor in place. I can mask up most of the motor but there are some vent slots in the top that will be impossible to block. Do you foresee any problems with this? Im just worried that if i press the rotor out it may not go back in.
    I'd leave the rotor in; and yes - that's a hydraulic press. Pressing it back in is trickier but it's not rocket science. Any mechanic or machinist could do it. Try to block the vents from the inside with cardboard. Short sprays and thin coats of paint. You'll be ok.

  20. #20
    Mal Dimal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron View Post
    So I'm looking for steady even pressure down onto the top spindle as opposed to sharp blows from a mallet?
    No mate, not on top of the motor shaft...
    You will need an appropriate sized piece of steel pipe of sufficient strength that will fit around the motor shaft. The pressure should be applied to the motor casing surrounding the shaft. Any damage to the shaft will render the grinder useless unfortunately...

    Mal.

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    Im pretty much set with keeping the motor in place. But the only thing there is to press on would be the motor shaft. Under the lower burr carrier there is a bearing seated in the bottom of the grinding area. The bearing seating forms part of the casing so the only thing there is to push on is the shaft. The only other alternative is to use some kind of gear puller from the bottom. But basically its all too hard and too risky to bother with. I nearby declare the motor un-removable! Its going to be very hard work to get anything up to mask the vent holes in the top of the casing as you'd have to get it past the stator and theres only about 15mm all around. So masking is out, I will just have to go carefully and lightly.

  22. #22
    Mal Dimal's Avatar
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    It looked to me as though the bearing support was part of the motor assembly, not part of the grinder casing so apologies if my advice was incorrect . Very surprising to see that something wearing the Faema name is built to such a poor standard but maybe I'm a bit too picky...

    Mal.

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    by the time this grinder is resprayed and pimped out you're going to want one too.
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    Here it is primed and with the new dosing funnel being test fitted.
    Im also working on a name badge for the back side.
    This grinder is going to be sprayed to match my late 70's La Dorio which i have nearly finished restoring.
    Next job is to make a portafilter fork to replace the crappy plastic one that these machines came with. They are almost always broken as they are only brittle plastic and they hang a long way off the front of the body of the grinder. I intend to make one from 3mm stainless plate. Attaching it is a bit of a challenge, the logical spot to put it is a small step in the grinder body that even has a tapped hole, but its just a bit too high up / close to the bottom of the funnel opening.
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    This project has taken a back seat while I work on a few other, more pressing things.
    However I have managed to turn a new base and funnel lid, The new base makes the whole thing look quite imposing, but its actually only about 20mm taller than it was originally.

    I'm about to fit a new switch to the base and was interested to note that the original switch was a triple pole single throw with both the active and neutral wired through the switch. the Earth attaches to the casting beside the switch. I wasn't sure if the idea behind this was to cut out a terminal block and just use the switch as a terminal or if there was another reason for switching both the active and neutral? Would be interested in any electricians opinions on this. I have heard in some applications, such as caravans, dpdt switches are used to cut down the risk of arcing at the switch, but this was mostly on discussion boards so i don't put too much faith in their statements, not knowing who any of the contributors are.
    I have a suitable 20amp DPDT switch I could use for this and I'm just not sure if I should just copy what was existing or not.
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  26. #26
    Mal Dimal's Avatar
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    Nice work Aaron...

    Double Pole Switching/Isolation is quite common for equipment manufactured for export to countries where the required voltage supply for the relative output of the device, may require a 2-Phase Supply (plus Neutral and Earth) in order to limit maximum current. In this situation, both incoming wires would be supplying a voltage that is at a significant voltage above Earth and would therefore be hazardous to switch only one of the conductors... Both conductors must be switched at the same time.

    In Australia, this situation rarely (if ever) arises these days but it is quite common to see that the manufacturer uses the same switching arrangement even though a single pole switch is sufficient. Doesn't hurt and maybe saves the manufacturer from having to stock multiple types of switches in their inventory.

    Mal.

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    Well after two years sitting abandoned down the end of the bench I finally got around to respraying and reassembling this grinder over the weekend. I ended up spraying it a metallic silver with a clear coat. the finish came out really nice - actually a lot nicer than the original factory finish. I also made a FAEMA badge for the rear / customer side. Other improvements were a polished stainless steel portafilter fork and a new glass bean hopper. (actually a light shade from Bunnings) All thats left to do is turn up a new burr carrier to replace the chunky plastic one that came with the machine. The material is already mounted and trued in the lathe all I need to do it find some time to turn it up.
    This whole project started because I had seen so many vintage grinders in Italy but because of the weight and their high cost, I had given up on ever being able to justify buying one. So I kind of wanted to make a grinder that had the feel of a 50's / 60's type grinder. Im quite happy with how it has come out so far.
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  28. #28
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    Nice job mate...
    Looks terrific.

    Mal.



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