Results 1 to 18 of 18
Like Tree5Likes
  • 1 Post By Otago
  • 1 Post By Otago
  • 1 Post By Otago
  • 1 Post By LeroyC
  • 1 Post By LeroyC

Thread: New Made by Knock hand grinder

  1. #1
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Hobart TAS
    Posts
    278

    New Made by Knock hand grinder

    Gene Cafe Coffee Roaster $850 - Free Beans Free Freight
    Hi all

    For those interested in hand grinder developments Made by Knock have just released a new version of the Feldgrind with larger 47mm steel burrs.

    The larger burrs are claimed to grind approximately 40% faster than the smaller 38mm burrs in the previous Felds and the Aergrind. The burrs are still custom hardened using MBK's "nerost" ceramic coating process to provide increased durability and grind quality.

    The Feld47 also uses a version of the new Feld2-Honed dial lid which provides step-less adjustment.

    There is a generous discount for a limited number of first adopters.

    PS. An improved non-plastic lid has also recently been offered as an upgrade for Aergrind owners.
    Kjarsheim likes this.

  2. #2
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    247
    Where can you see it? Checked website, instagram and twitter but not mentioned??

  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Hobart TAS
    Posts
    278
    Didn't post specific references in respect to site policy on posting non-sponsor items. Retry Instagram for a first port of call. It is on their website but you have to dig down into their store (might have to double click on store to get past Feld2) below Feld2-Honed and look for Feld47.

    One possible down-side with the latest Feld handle/dials is that they are apparently not easily removable and therefore less amenable for travel use. There is a reference to this under the Feld2 and I think the same handle/dial design is upscaled and transferred to the Feld47.

    A very good price point for a grinder of that calibre and all of their products have a good performance reputation. I normally probably couldn't resist, but recently bought a SH Pharos for espresso hand grinding with grunt.
    saeco_user likes this.

  4. #4
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Hobart TAS
    Posts
    278
    Apologies. Statement in original post that "The burrs are still custom hardened using MBK's "nerost" ceramic coating process.." needs to be confirmed. Now not sure that this is the case.

  5. #5
    Senior Member Yelta's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Moonta SA.
    Posts
    6,866
    Here's a review.


  6. #6
    Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    55
    Just purchased a Feld2, already own an Aergrind......looks like another acquisition in the wind, I had a laugh!!!

  7. #7
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Hobart TAS
    Posts
    278
    Thanks for the video Yelta. Good find.

    A very interesting item elsewhere on Prima Coffee's site was their comparison test of premium hand grinders where they evaluated the Lido 3, Feld2, Helor 101, Comandante and Aergrind.

    In a discussion after the article Prima Coffee observed that "...uniformity of grind is one of the most important considerations when choosing a grinder. We matched grind sizes and put all 4 grinders against each other in a series of brewing tests and found that all 4 extracted within a .5% EXT variance. In general the taste between all 4 grinders was virtually indistinguishable..."

    Their conclusion was that the features, value and aesthetics of these grinders were more important considerations when deciding what to buy.
    LeroyC likes this.

  8. #8
    Senior Member LeroyC's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Woodend, New Zealand
    Posts
    2,247
    Quote Originally Posted by Otago View Post
    Thanks for the video Yelta. Good find.

    A very interesting item elsewhere on Prima Coffee's site was their comparison test of premium hand grinders where they evaluated the Lido 3, Feld2, Helor 101, Comandante and Aergrind.

    In a discussion after the article Prima Coffee observed that "...uniformity of grind is one of the most important considerations when choosing a grinder. We matched grind sizes and put all 4 grinders against each other in a series of brewing tests and found that all 4 extracted within a .5% EXT variance. In general the taste between all 4 grinders was virtually indistinguishable..."

    Their conclusion was that the features, value and aesthetics of these grinders were more important considerations when deciding what to buy.
    If they work well. My new Aergrind seems to be running like an old Morry.

  9. #9
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Hobart TAS
    Posts
    278
    That's unfortunate Leroy.

    Any ideas as to what the problem might be?

  10. #10
    Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    55
    Perhaps alignment is off? I've been very fortunate with both my Aergrind and Feld2 which are very well behaved and very very good value ( I paid $165 for my aergrind at Smallbatch, bought Feld2 from Edinburgh about $240 landed) but have read reports of slightly off alignment. And of not a lot of actual support from madebyknock.
    I would recommend a bit of webcrawling because there is a lot of help available.

  11. #11
    Senior Member LeroyC's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Woodend, New Zealand
    Posts
    2,247
    Yeah I reckon it is an alignment issue. Iíve done a bit of research and it seems theyíre getting a few like this, although itís a very small percentage. And it sounds like the Aergrind is very difficult to realign yourself unfortunately. Iíve emailed them with no reply so might be time to start shaming them on social media. Haha!

    Check all the fines in this V60!!!! Not good.

    Kjarsheim likes this.

  12. #12
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Hobart TAS
    Posts
    278
    Aergrind

    Hi Leroy.

    With its unitary body construction there should be little to contribute to any misalignment in the Aergrind. You haven't said what you have done, if anything, to investigate the source of your problem. If you have tried the following then I apologise for stating the bleeding obvious. Only trying to help.

    I can't speak from personal experience as I haven't had any problems and am reluctant to fiddle unnecessarily. "If it aint't broke don't fix it."

    However, I think the following are the first points worth checking. Check that the inner burr retaining bolt is tight. Then check that the grind setting collar (2 on the attached parts diagram) is tight. This collar should be tight down on the top bearing when the grinder adjustment is taken down to 1 (zero setting)

    If either of those are loose that may be the source of any misalignment. Beyond that you are getting into areas that Made by Knock recommend against. However, if you wanted to venture further you could try rotating the inner burr 180 degrees on its shaft. To remove the inner burr, hold the shaft with the turning handle and undo the retaining bolt. Following the Orphan Espresso procedure for alignment of the Lidos, you would then lock the burrs down to zero before re-tightening the inner burr retaining bolt. There will always be some runout at the inner burr given the distance from the bottom bearing to the bottom of the burr set.

    It's unfortunate that you haven't had a response from Made by Knock. However, at the moment they are probably pre-occupied with the Feld47 and the new metal top lid for the Aergrinds. Not that that should be an excuse.

    Also, on the excessive amount of fines in your V60 shot, do have a Kruve sifter or access to one? They really help you find the sweet spot in a hand grinder.

    Hope this might help. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1530961840.297574.jpg

  13. #13
    Senior Member LeroyC's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Woodend, New Zealand
    Posts
    2,247
    Quote Originally Posted by Otago View Post
    Aergrind

    Hi Leroy.

    With its unitary body construction there should be little to contribute to any misalignment in the Aergrind. You haven't said what you have done, if anything, to investigate the source of your problem. If you have tried the following then I apologise for stating the bleeding obvious. Only trying to help.

    I can't speak from personal experience as I haven't had any problems and am reluctant to fiddle unnecessarily. "If it aint't broke don't fix it."

    However, I think the following are the first points worth checking. Check that the inner burr retaining bolt is tight. Then check that the grind setting collar (2 on the attached parts diagram) is tight. This collar should be tight down on the top bearing when the grinder adjustment is taken down to 1 (zero setting)

    If either of those are loose that may be the source of any misalignment. Beyond that you are getting into areas that Made by Knock recommend against. However, if you wanted to venture further you could try rotating the inner burr 180 degrees on its shaft. To remove the inner burr, hold the shaft with the turning handle and undo the retaining bolt. Following the Orphan Espresso procedure for alignment of the Lidos, you would then lock the burrs down to zero before re-tightening the inner burr retaining bolt. There will always be some runout at the inner burr given the distance from the bottom bearing to the bottom of the burr set.

    It's unfortunate that you haven't had a response from Made by Knock. However, at the moment they are probably pre-occupied with the Feld47 and the new metal top lid for the Aergrinds. Not that that should be an excuse.

    Also, on the excessive amount of fines in your V60 shot, do have a Kruve sifter or access to one? They really help you find the sweet spot in a hand grinder.

    Hope this might help. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1530961840.297574.jpg
    Thatís exactly what I was going to try tomorrow! Thanks for typing it out all in one spot for me. Itíll make for much easier referencing in the morning! Haha!

  14. #14
    Senior Member LeroyC's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Woodend, New Zealand
    Posts
    2,247
    Quote Originally Posted by Otago View Post
    Aergrind

    Hi Leroy.

    With its unitary body construction there should be little to contribute to any misalignment in the Aergrind. You haven't said what you have done, if anything, to investigate the source of your problem. If you have tried the following then I apologise for stating the bleeding obvious. Only trying to help.

    I can't speak from personal experience as I haven't had any problems and am reluctant to fiddle unnecessarily. "If it aint't broke don't fix it."

    However, I think the following are the first points worth checking. Check that the inner burr retaining bolt is tight. Then check that the grind setting collar (2 on the attached parts diagram) is tight. This collar should be tight down on the top bearing when the grinder adjustment is taken down to 1 (zero setting)

    If either of those are loose that may be the source of any misalignment. Beyond that you are getting into areas that Made by Knock recommend against. However, if you wanted to venture further you could try rotating the inner burr 180 degrees on its shaft. To remove the inner burr, hold the shaft with the turning handle and undo the retaining bolt. Following the Orphan Espresso procedure for alignment of the Lidos, you would then lock the burrs down to zero before re-tightening the inner burr retaining bolt. There will always be some runout at the inner burr given the distance from the bottom bearing to the bottom of the burr set.

    It's unfortunate that you haven't had a response from Made by Knock. However, at the moment they are probably pre-occupied with the Feld47 and the new metal top lid for the Aergrinds. Not that that should be an excuse.

    Also, on the excessive amount of fines in your V60 shot, do have a Kruve sifter or access to one? They really help you find the sweet spot in a hand grinder.

    Hope this might help. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1530961840.297574.jpg
    Ok so I checked the basics. The inner burr retaining bolt is tight. However when I fully tightened the burrs the adjustment dial was only lined up with the 2. So I tightened the collar, but in doing so I think Iíve found the problem. If I tighten the collar, even just nipped up Iím then past 1 on the dial and itís very difficult if not impossible to open up the burrs. If I tighten it so that Iím aligned with 1 on the dial it isnít fully tight. This is how Iíve left it as itís better than it was. Iíll try it like this before trying anything else and report back.
    Kjarsheim likes this.

  15. #15
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Hobart TAS
    Posts
    278
    Hi Leroy

    Good to hear that you may have identified your problem. Hope things have improved now.

    I think the best resolution is to get the grind setting collar right and then to just work off your new zero point. If you have to work off 2 as a zero it becomes a little irrelevant when you are in your working range of say 1.10 . You still have a reference point to work from.

    This only becomes a problem when you want to compare your setting with someone else's. Then you only have to remember to delete the difference in your zero point. Maybe write the difference on the grind handle as a reminder?

  16. #16
    Senior Member LeroyC's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Woodend, New Zealand
    Posts
    2,247
    Quote Originally Posted by Otago View Post
    Hi Leroy

    Good to hear that you may have identified your problem. Hope things have improved now.

    I think the best resolution is to get the grind setting collar right and then to just work off your new zero point. If you have to work off 2 as a zero it becomes a little irrelevant when you are in your working range of say 1.10 . You still have a reference point to work from.

    This only becomes a problem when you want to compare your setting with someone else's. Then you only have to remember to delete the difference in your zero point. Maybe write the difference on the grind handle as a reminder?
    Yeah I guess Iím not too worried about exactly where the dial number sits. Iím more concerned that I canít seem to get it tightened properly. With it in its current position this is how the lid sits -



    From what you say it should be flush.

  17. #17
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Hobart TAS
    Posts
    278
    Hi Leroy

    Sorry for the confusion. I was referring to the radial numbering system on the dial indicator, not its relationship to the body. The grind indicator dial does not have a function in the alignment process. It is a loose fit and can just sit where it rests on the collar.

    I think the most important thing is to get the top bearing seated and retained by the grind setting collar, otherwise any looseness at the top bearing will be amplified at the bottom of the inner burr and make any run-out even worse.

    You need to back the inner burr out slightly to get the collar to seat the top bearing, You've already experienced how the burrs can be locked if they are at zero when the top collar is tightened up.

    However, I would hold the inner burr in at zero while rotating it slightly using a hex driver in the retaining bolt while you tighten down the collar. This should let the shaft centralise as best it can, and get the top bearing seated at the optimum position. Don't worry about the burrs touching while you do this - the burrs zero on a chamfer which protects the actual burr cutting surfaces.

    Hope this helps, and you can get your Aergrind back in top form.

  18. #18
    Senior Member LeroyC's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Woodend, New Zealand
    Posts
    2,247
    Quote Originally Posted by Otago View Post
    Hi Leroy

    Sorry for the confusion. I was referring to the radial numbering system on the dial indicator, not its relationship to the body. The grind indicator dial does not have a function in the alignment process. It is a loose fit and can just sit where it rests on the collar.

    I think the most important thing is to get the top bearing seated and retained by the grind setting collar, otherwise any looseness at the top bearing will be amplified at the bottom of the inner burr and make any run-out even worse.

    You need to back the inner burr out slightly to get the collar to seat the top bearing, You've already experienced how the burrs can be locked if they are at zero when the top collar is tightened up.

    However, I would hold the inner burr in at zero while rotating it slightly using a hex driver in the retaining bolt while you tighten down the collar. This should let the shaft centralise as best it can, and get the top bearing seated at the optimum position. Don't worry about the burrs touching while you do this - the burrs zero on a chamfer which protects the actual burr cutting surfaces.

    Hope this helps, and you can get your Aergrind back in top form.
    Aha! I think we have a plan. Thanks for all your help, Iíll get onto it in the morning.

    Cheers.



Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •