Post By Jackster
Post By Jackster
Lido E metric scaling
I have done a easy mod to my lido E. It makes adjustments easier to track and more repeatable. It just involves some adhesive tape measure.
So, I have the mm scale adhered to the lock ring, and a indicator attached to the body. Also there is a indicator attached to the bottom burr carrier (base).
In my use to adjust, I hold the lock ring and the body, loosen the base. Then adjust the lockring slightly according to the scale, and then hold the lockring and the body at its setting and tighten the base to its alignment mark. This ensures there was a adjustment, and the base/lockring is at same tension every time.
Yes, 1mm movement does make a very small difference to shot time/weight.
Slightly visible in the pic is the cable tie based bean paddle on the centre shaft in the bean hopper. It's also a recommended mod to stop the beans sitting up on the bearing carrier supports. It needs pushing down occasionally (and also presently..)
You can see the metric scaling gives around 14 easily selectable settings between the fat factory alignment bars.
I was having trouble recalling if I was going coarser by 1/2 a bar (and 1/2 of what from where exactly) or whatever.. or if it accidentally loosened..
Great idea Jackster, and the bean sweeper is a handy addition.
Another approach, if you happen to have vernier calipers, is to measure the gap between the bottom of the hopper flange to the top of the bottom burr carrier as in the attached pic. This allows you to return to previously recorded grind positions.
The bean sweeper is a improvement, but not a awesome thing. It's difficult as it needs to be able to slide on the shaft as the shaft slides out of the grinder. Also access is difficult as so little room inside the hopper. But it doesn't need much to push the beans around a bit..
Day to day, I clean with a cheap artist style paintbrush. I only make 1-2 cups a day, so I think it's best to thoroughly clean the old grinds.
I have removed the base screw permanently too, so I can easily get the base off for cleaning out the burr area on a less regular timeframe (monthly or so..)
I didnt think of that Otago. Looks repeatable, and accurate.
I, too, use a long artists brush but also find using a Rocket air blaster (camera cleaning gear) ,with the Lido upside down, shifts a lot after the brush cleaning.
If you leave the bottom screw off you would need to make sure you are applying downward pressure on the central shaft to ensure accurate changes in settings.
I am about to experiment with threading a small nylon tipped set screw through the bottom burr carrier to lock the ring in place. If this works consistently it will do away with that annoying locking ring and make adjustments much easier.
I adjust the lido upside down, with handle pressed against chest. I saw this on YouTube for adjusting the lido. That's 3/4 of the reason the numbers are upside down. So I can read them with the grinder jammed in my chest.
The bottom screw is only there to stop the base falling onto the ground if you undo it all the way.
I like the setscrew idea. Maybe 3 of them, and just tightened enough to make the base not move while grinding, but loose enough so that you can adjust base with a bit of force.