Toys! I must have new toys!!!
This is a followup to my post of 24th November 2009 in this thread as a member asked me via email:
I thought it would be useful for others to post some pics of how the thermocouple from Bean Bay"Can I use the thermocouple at beanbay, without varicap? Product page says "Stainless Steel Braiding for less chance of melting during roasting" And one more question, can I easily remove the screw on window next to original thermocouple or do I need something to fill the gaps(if there is any) between the screw of the new thermocouple and the hole."
fits into my 2 kg Has Garanti. I am using the 100 mm long thermocouple (TC).
Pic 1 shows the TC in position, pic 2 in more detail, pic 3 shows the hole that the TC goes into by removing the screw, pic 4 shows TC with a small circular ceramic insulator and pic 5 shows detail of this insulator with the end of the TC for scale.
The insulator is an old varicap. It just happens to fit the OD of the TC and the ID of the windows screw hole perfectly.
NOTE: If you wish to put a 100 mm TC into this hole or any hole first disconnect the power lead to the roaster, insert the TC, then manually rotate by hand the drum to ensure the TC will not be hit by anything as the drum rotates. I had no problems with my 2 kg HG but you have been warned :-)
I have a 2006 15kg HGS Has Garanti. My drum wall keeps scraping against the front wall and I keep adjusting it so it doesn't. I'm just wondering if there is a locknut to tighten the cap/ so that I don't have to keep doing this several times a a roasting session.
I'm using a HGS5 Shop Roaster. When measuring for my charge temperature, should I be using the been probe temperature, or the temperature reading on the digital display that comes built into the roaster?
Bean probe is more consistent, and that's really what you are aiming for.When measuring for my charge temperature, should I be using the been probe temperature
Use your ambient probe for over temp settings (mine is set at 250º) and to monitor the differential between probes prior to starting a roast.
For instance, I will preheat my roaster while I weigh the green beans for the day's roasting (about 40 mins).
I will aim for 230º ambient/ 270º bean probe. This then becomes my target after each load, prior to dropping the bean mass temp and charging the drum with the green beans
when the bean mass probe reaches the load point. It helps with consistency, especially with the thin walled drum of the Has Garanti, which will gain/lose
heat quickly. When changing from the 12kg roasts ( normally I do the bigger loads first) to a 6 or 3kg I will get the ambient temp to 205º before dropping the bean temp to the required
charge temp.... once again for consistency. I rarely do 3kg roasts (other than decaf) and could aim for a lower indicator temp than 205º to speed up the interval between roasts
but it's a good time to pour a shot and do a couple of other things. When I roast decaf (once weekly) it's always first off the rank for the day.
the lock ring. Don't over tighten as you may need to readjust the shaft position as your roasting day progresses.
You should also find that the shaft needs adjustment as the weather changes, especially Autumn and Spring when the thermal mass of the roaster becomes unbalanced relative to
the drum when you start heating the drum.
It is not a set and forget operation. Excessive friction will cause unwanted wear between the drum and the endplate and eventually could put too much pressure on the drive train causing wear/failure.
The specific information in regards to temperatures only apply to my roaster, in my roast room, at my elevation, in my climate, with my beans and roasted to my profiles.
The temperatures are there simply to provide illustration on what is important and that is to achieve consistency in anyone's approach to roasting coffee.
They should not be transferred to any other roasting situation.
Consistency is achieved not only through an understanding of your equipment and physical situation but also in developing a consistent and considered modus operandi
to your roast days or sessions.
Cheers and thanks, Matt. :-)
Hi all Has Garanti roaster users and potential users.
Forsyth Coffee, established in 1981 have taken over the agency of the full range of roasters, grinders and storage systems produced by Has Garanti Turkey for Australia and New Zealand. There are some great new models that have been released the 120kg 180 kg hot air roasters and modifications to the HSR range.
This model is our top version and operates in a system with 4 Motors and 2 Fans. The biggest advantage of second fan is to be controllable of air quantity passing through the coffee with butterfly type louver in 5 different positions. In addition the other cooling fan is used for only rapid cooling. It has all the specifications of HGS and it is preferred by espresso and drip coffee roaster because of its superior air control, rapid cooling system. Its disadvantage is to be needed 2 chimney connections. Even so it’s our most preferred model because you can control the coffee development during the roast. The control panel includes digital time counter in addition to digital heat indicator.
We are planning to bring in the new 500g roaster for training, promotional use and support the Roaster Guilds.
I have a long and deep involvement with the coffee world, I look forward to meeting roasters, I appreciate any knowledge re the HG .
I have a creed "I know a lot about coffee but not everything and always look forward to learning more "
Forsyth Coffee, Coffee consultant.
Former WBC, Latte Art, Coffee In Good Spirits and Turkish World Judge.
Founding and former president of ASCA
presently co chair of the NSW roasters guild.
@speleomike its all about patience trying to find a machine you like . it took me over six months to get my 5kg roaster and loved it but i now have no room for it and looking for a 1 or 2 kg roaster , i used the has garanti and it does the same job as my roastmax and as for the others its all about technique and bean choice ,but i think gas is the go as it doesn't smash you electricity bill.
I am off to Turkey to meet up with Mujdat and go through the range of equipment . If you have any questions re roasters let me know and I will endeavour to get the answers from Mujdat.
500g roaster used ukraine roasting comp.jpg The new 500g roaster used in the Ukraine coffee roasting championship is excellent for sample roasting as well as for developing your unique roast profiles. it has an ability to roast in a similar style to traditional larger roasters.
Apologies if this is out there already, but here goes...
I've typically roasted coffee with a decreasing gas supply through the roast i.e. I start at 100% gas and slowly decrease gas through the roast. My question is; has anybody had success roasting coffee with the gas supply starting at roughly 80%, then increasing it to 100% in the middle of the roast (ramping from 150C up to FC, before decreasing gas again)? In the interest of saving myself time and money (and more importantly from ruining coffee), I'd like to hear if I'm barking up the wrong tree. (Or if I've been doing it wrong the whole time )
Ultimately the crucial temp adjustments are just prior to and during FC, and SC if you ever go that far. So providing you are setting up your entry into FC with sufficient energy (be it not too much or too little) then going hard on the gas after drying would be fine.
Best of luck!